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Old 12-02-2013, 03:00 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
Just don't get the expanding foam. I did that once and bulged the panels on a fiberglass trailer I had at the time. A little pressure over a large area made a big bulge.
Oops.. guess I really lucked out... or the foam did not 'push' a lot... because I did use the expanding foam... just did not 'overdo' it... started at bottom and worked way up and out...

Got chance to check it, accidentally when I made a right turn entering a 'drive thru' spot and whacked a PVC pole with the cap... handled it ok... no damage!!
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:09 PM   #30
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What is your source for the 50 amp service box in the RV?
I went to the local 'Electrical Supply' house and told them I wanted a 'SquareD' breaker box. The box is good to 100 amps, if I recall properly...the important thing is that you get a 'QO".. do NOT... I repeat, do NOT use the 'Homeline' option.. it is cheap for a reason... not good for RV.. and marginal for stable mounts like my doghouse...

Try this link for lots of info..

QO Load Centers - QO -

Should you have questions, ping me with a message...
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:40 PM   #31
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:07 PM   #32
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Thanks for the info.
you are welcome..!
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:58 AM   #33
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Cool updgrade!
Quick question, I'm assuming that each AC unit is in an independent breaker to each pole ( 50Amp 240v) so if getting to a place that only has 30Amp 120V (1 Pole) would that leave 1 AC unit and everything connected to 1 of the poles non functional?
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:19 PM   #34
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30a to 50a adapters typically connect the hot wire of the 30a supply to both of the hot wires for the 50a load.

As a result, all the circuits will work. If the shore power voltage stays up around 115 or 120, you can typically run both ACs at once as long as you shut off everything else, including the fridge and the converter.
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:06 PM   #35
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30a to 50a adapters typically connect the hot wire of the 30a supply to both of the hot wires for the 50a load.

As a result, all the circuits will work. If the shore power voltage stays up around 115 or 120, you can typically run both ACs at once as long as you shut off everything else, including the fridge and the converter.
....so the trick is made by the 30A to 50A adapter.... Will need to get my hands in one of those...
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:16 PM   #36
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Yes these cheater adapters will provide fake 50amp service. Be really careful. I have seen these melt and catch on fire. There is a wide variety in quality. $10 at WalMart vs $35 make your own with parts from HD/Lowes.

I actually have a 30 - 50 amp shore cord that has the cheater built in. I used AWG wire to bridge the l1 and l2 equal to the common neutral. The cheat is done in the trailer end connection. I do not suggest this unless a you know the result of the fake service and you use high quality electrical components (Furrion).

Be aware this is how some Parks provide 50 amp service... a cheater shunt
Check before plugging in... if not real 50 amp service... I'd suggest you move to another park as there might be other hidden dangers that could kill you just by touching your Airstreams shell (reverse neutral/ hot and you have wet feet)
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:11 PM   #37
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So, after several extended trips... absolutely NO issues with AC #2, or with the Electrical upgrade...

I have had some RV Sites with bad receptacles.. but NO failures in our setup at all...

We have been at sites with only 30AMP service. I used the 50-30 dongle and was very careful of power use... no issues... except that I could not run both AC's at same time...

NOTE: I replaced ALL the breakers during the upgrade... after I noticed one of them was running 'warm'.... all good now!
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