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Old 02-02-2019, 11:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by hallbergstev View Post
The style of plug used on airstreams is the same style that has been used on boats for many years. As these plugs age and begin to corrode, they tend to build up resistance. Many boat fires have been attributed to these plugs. A few years ago a new style plug hit the market in an attempt to solve this resistance problem. It’s called “Smart Plug”. You can retrofit both the Trailer side and the Cord side.
After observing some charring and melting at the trailer end of our shore power cord, we upgraded our shore power inlet and cord to the SmartPlug and I don’t look back. The manufacturer claims 20 times more contact area in the plug, reducing resistance and the potential for fire.

Note that you must replace both the inlet on the trailer and the cord.

Airstream installed ours at Jackson Center, but it could easily be a DIY project if you’re up to it.

https://smartplug.com/rv/

Jim
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:24 PM   #16
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30 amp trailer plug hot

Thanks to all. The cable is the cable that came from Mothership. The end that plugs into the RV Park power has never need the problem, the male connector on the AS is where the problem has been. Yes the female end of the power cable was changed both times that we had the male connector replaced. If we have another problem we will go with the Smart plug. Thanks for the different ideas. Will try them.
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:24 PM   #17
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Sorry, I completely missed that the problem was on the trailer end of the cable.

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Old 02-02-2019, 02:55 PM   #18
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Remember, if voltages goes low amperage must increase. This could occur anywhere down stream of the circuit protector and cause a rise in temperature. Most plastic melts @ 350 F. I have seen low grade (high resistance) shorts melt wires. If you canít make the necessary change at least lower the load. The fix it.
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Old 02-02-2019, 03:40 PM   #19
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The waterfront has been covered......

The three possible culprits have been covered: crud in the contacts, over current, and loose components. While not a "solution", one of the "helps" is a neat thing at Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical instrument areas, in the form of an infrared thermometer that you point at something, and pull the trigger. You don't have to touch anything, but it'll give you the temperature of the target. Neat thing is they cost less than 20 bucks. You can use them to do a quick temperature check on all your trailer's tires as well, among other things.....


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Old 02-02-2019, 06:01 PM   #20
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This happend to me 2014 27FB. I upgraded to the Smart Plug cord and recepticals. When running a electric house total amps can be close to the 30 amp max. When every one runs electric house sometimes line voltage drops this increases amps thru all the connections. Eg HEAT. The Smart Plug product is notably heavier duty. I also added the Micro Air Easy Start which seems to have reduced start and run amps on A/C. Also a line voltage meter Worst case you choose your electric consumers. Water heater and refrig can run on gas.
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Old 02-03-2019, 04:38 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Sorry, I completely missed that the problem was on the trailer end of the cable.

Al
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Old 02-03-2019, 04:40 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Julie-Bob View Post
Thanks to all. The cable is the cable that came from Mothership. The end that plugs into the RV Park power has never need the problem, the male connector on the AS is where the problem has been. Yes the female end of the power cable was changed both times that we had the male connector replaced. If we have another problem we will go with the Smart plug. Thanks for the different ideas. Will try them.

Got any old damaged parts you can take a pic of and post them?
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:01 PM   #23
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Don't Know If This Is True

We were having an issue with shore power at a State Park in Texas awhile back. The Park Ranger who fixed the problem said that alot of the problems people have with their power cords at both the power pedestal and the trailer are caused by plugging in when the circuit breaker at the power pedestal is in the 'on' position and to always make sure it is in the 'off' position before plugging in at the pedestal and trailer. For me, easier said than done. Either due to poor eyesight, bad lighting conditions and sometimes, even unmarked circuit breakers we end up plugging in when the circuit breaker is in the 'on' position. He could tell all that just by looking at the condition of both our shore power and trailer plug connections. The good news is that we've been using the same 30 Amp power cord since 2013 and it's still kicking.

Can anybody corroborate the Park Ranger's advice?
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:56 PM   #24
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30 amp trailer plug hot

No. Makes zero sense. Just hook up with most of the big loads turned off on the Airstream. If this concerns you, get an EMS that will check your power connections before putting ANY load on the pedestal. Flipping regular pedestal or AS internal circuit breakers all the time is not their purpose. They are not designed to be used as switches, they are protective devices.
A decent EMS/surge protector will give you time to connect everything, it will then delay taking a load while it does its checks, Then it will safely turn on the power.
I donít bother flipping breakers, but I do carefully check the condition of the receptacle on the pedestal for signs of damage or overheating with a bright flashlight. I also stop using it if my plug goes in without much force. That says the receptacle is old and worn. Then I let my built in EMS do its thing. Itís internal relay is designed to switch loads.

Mr. Ranger is trying to mitigate poor maintenance. Get a built-in or good portable EMS and quit worrying.
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