Visit our Popular Forums

Gleverett · 08-01-2016, 11:09 AM

I plan on installing a RV connection outside my house to plug in our 25' FC which requires 30 amp power. My question is should I go with 50amp and use an adapter? Is there any problem doing it that way?

Thanks

sheriff1 · 08-01-2016, 11:14 AM

Put in enough wire for 50 amp for future, install a 30 amp plug easily changed to 50 amp when you eventually need it. Saves having the adapter laying in the ground.

2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"

Jammer · 08-01-2016, 11:24 AM

There is no problem using the adapter except that you, well, need to use an adapter (one more thing to buy, keep track of, maintain, etc).

The only real benefit of a 50a outlet would be if you someday plan to have an RV that requires it. Even then, you would only need it if you plan to run more than 30a of loads while parked.

Tater · 08-01-2016, 01:56 PM

Go 50 and you can run a/c, microwave, coffee pot, hair dryer at the same time without deciding what you can turn on without kicking the breaker.

mehes · 08-01-2016, 03:49 PM

How about both?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-100-Am...32SS/203393689

Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

DaveFL · 08-01-2016, 04:34 PM

Being that you are in Blue Ridge, Georgia where Floridians go to get cool, 50 amps probably not needed. I installed 50 amps here at home, just as a precaution. I park the MH in the shade so only one a/c is sufficient but if It becomes my refuge due to a tropical storm, I would be using all systems and 50 would be more convenient.
Most campgrounds (state parks) have 30 and more are adding 50 so I carry adapters, using a 50 amp service with a 50 amp cord made more sense to me than the marginal 30.

Bill M. · 08-01-2016, 04:37 PM

I do not see why it would cost much more to do the 50 amp if you are getting an electrician to do it.

TG Twinkie · 08-01-2016, 06:28 PM

Make sure the electrician understands the particulars when installing your RV service.
Many people have had damage done to their coach because the receptacle was wired for 240 volts.

Jammer · 08-02-2016, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill M.

I do not see why it would cost much more to do the 50 amp if you are getting an electrician to do it.

1) the cost of the wire is considerably higher, which makes a big difference if the breaker panel is some distance away.

2) in some cases the existing breaker panel may not be able to support a 50a circuit, either because there isn't, physically, room for the breaker -- or because of rules that limit the total amp draw of all circuits in the panel

3) If properly installed, a 50a outlet will include a disconnect switch at the outlet. 50a connections to an RV should not be connected or disconnected while the power is on because there is a possibility that the neutral could disconnect before the two hot lines, which can cause damage to loads in the RV from overvoltage.

NY24 · 08-02-2016, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tater

Go 50 and you can run a/c, microwave, coffee pot, hair dryer at the same time without deciding what you can turn on without kicking the breaker.

NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!

Using an adapter to plug an RV with a 30A service could leave the cord trying to draw more juice than it was designed to carry. Pulling more than 30A should cause the 30A circuit breaker in the trailer to trip. It's a disaster waiting to happen. Spend a little up front and have an RV pedestal installed by someone licensed and knowledgeable. That way, you can grow or, host another RVer who's service needs are different from yours.

jdalrymple · 08-02-2016, 02:12 PM

If I were paying an electrician, I would wire for 50 amp.

Labor is the same, and would be a lot cheaper than doing it all over later.

On a separate note, I am not sure I understand NY24's theory.

Regards,

JD

Bill M. · 08-02-2016, 02:24 PM

I guess we see why I am not an electrician.

TG Twinkie · 08-02-2016, 04:21 PM

If you install the system correctly you will have a sub panel with a 20amp, a 30amp and a 50amp breaker along with the appropriate receptacles matching the breakers.
If you have a coach which requires a 30 amp service you plug into the 30 amp receptacle and turn on the associated breaker.
Unless you have a coach with 2 air conditioners I doubt it will require more than a 30 amp service.
Do it once and do it right!

HiJoeSilver · 08-02-2016, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

If you install the system correctly you will have a sub panel with a 20amp, a 30amp and a 50amp breaker along with the appropriate receptacles matching the breakers.
If you have a coach which requires a 30 amp service you plug into the 30 amp receptacle and turn on the associated breaker.
Unless you have a coach with 2 air conditioners I doubt it will require more than a 30 amp service.
Do it once and do it right!

I'll quote him again;
Do it once and do it right!

Get the 50/30/20 amp pedestal. If you upgrade to a bigger or different trailer or RV in the future you'll be glad you paid a little more now than a lot more later.

kb0zke · 08-02-2016, 07:08 PM

"Get the 50/30/20 amp pedestal. If you upgrade to a bigger or different trailer or RV in the future you'll be glad you paid a little more now than a lot more later." That's the best route. While you live there you have the ability to plug any coach into the proper outlet. It can be a selling point when you go to sell the place. The cost of doing it right won't be much more than putting in limited service.

To add to the topic, add a fresh water source in the same area while you're at it. If you can, add a sewer connection, too.

Wazbro · 08-02-2016, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Make sure the electrician understands the particulars when installing your RV service.
Many people have had damage done to their coach because the receptacle was wired for 240 volts.

This is extremely important. Many electricians think 30 amp RV receptacles are 240 volt, they are 120 volt. If they put in a 30 amp have them sign that they will pay for damage to your trailer if it is not the required 120 volt.(Might not be binding but, it will show you know your right and he needs to pay attention.)

Please note 50 amp RV receptacles are 240 volt.

NY24 · 08-03-2016, 07:38 AM

"On a separate note, I am not sure I understand NY24's theory"

Easy. An outlet is wired to provide up to 50A. An RV wired for 30A service would have wires sized for that 30A (ie: smaller gauge wires). Using an adapter, you plug a 30A RV into that 50A service (which of course is actually TWO 50A legs for a total of 100A). Your RV which is wired for only 30A now has 50A available (possibly more if other mistakes were made). Should something go wrong (think Murphy's Law) and the RV's 30A breaker fails, you now have 50A flowing into an RV wired for only 30A. Extra amperage = extra heat = potential for disaster. JUST DON'T DO IT!

Even professional electricians make mistakes. If an electrician is thinking regular household appliances rather than RV service, he might wire a 50A RV receptacle to combine those two 120VAC legs so that only one 240VAC "leg" is provided (rather than two 120VAC legs most RVs needs). A 30A RV service can be miswired too. After ANY electrical work is done TEST it thoroughly before plugging in your RV. This is why ALL RVers should TEST RV pedestals before they plug their RVs in. Any RVer who doesn't know how to test outlets properly should invest $10 in Mike Sokol's excellent book "No~Shock~Zone RV Electrical Safety". The life and RV you save may be your own.

https://www.amazon.com/No~Shock~Zone...mm_pap_title_0

sheriff1 · 08-03-2016, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NY24

"On a separate note, I am not sure I understand NY24's theory"

Easy. An outlet is wired to provide up to 50A. An RV wired for 30A service would have wires sized for that 30A (ie: smaller gauge wires). Using an adapter, you plug a 30A RV into that 50A service (which of course is actually TWO 50A legs for a total of 100A). Your RV which is wired for only 30A now has 50A available (possibly more if other mistakes were made). Should something go wrong (think Murphy's Law) and the RV's 30A breaker fails, you now have 50A flowing into an RV wired for only 30A. Extra amperage = extra heat = potential for disaster. JUST DON'T DO IT!

Even professional electricians make mistakes. If an electrician is thinking regular household appliances rather than RV service, he might wire a 50A RV receptacle to combine those two 120VAC legs so that only one 240VAC "leg" is provided (rather than two 120VAC legs most RVs needs). A 30A RV service can be miswired too. After ANY electrical work is done TEST it thoroughly before plugging in your RV. This is why ALL RVers should TEST RV pedestals before they plug their RVs in. Any RVer who doesn't know how to test outlets properly should invest $10 in Mike Sokol's excellent book "No~Shock~Zone RV Electrical Safety". The life and RV you save may be your own.

https://www.amazon.com/No~Shock~Zone...mm_pap_title_0

"he might wire a 50A RV receptacle to combine those two 120VAC legs so that only one 240VAC "leg" is provided (rather than two 120VAC "

No such thing as one 240vac leg is possible with residential service. The service coming into the property is 2-120vac legs and a neutral, no way to make it a single 240vac leg.
Vern
(Retired power employee)

2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"

Tater · 08-03-2016, 11:49 AM

I'm just a country boy educated in West Virginia's public schools so I won't claim to know anything technical about 50amp vs 30amp other than my 50amp outlet I had installed in the garage works fine with the 30amp 25 'a/s we had. Same with 20 amp plug to 50 amp adapter we use to power the refrigerator before we leave on a trip. I would think the breaker in the a/s would trip if you overloaded the circuit even if it's adapted from a 50 amp rv outlet.

TG Twinkie · 08-03-2016, 12:05 PM

Sheriff:
The 50 amp service to an RV is exactly as you stated. Nothing in the RV requires 240 volts.
With the exception of some of the million dollar buses that may have an electric dryer.
The 50 amp service is actually two 120 volt legs which share a common neutral.
Typically one of the 120 volt legs provides the power for virtually everything in the RV. The second 120 volt leg provides power to the second air conditioner.

In response to Tater's comments: The circuit breaker in the coach will not protect the wiring between the pedestal and the coach.
Circuit breakers only protect the wiring that is downstream.
If by some slight chance you would have a problem with an adaptor or power cord shorting the chances are you would see a fireball before the 50 amp breaker would trip. If not a fireball there would certainly be significant damage to any cord or adaptor that is not rated for 50 amps.
This is one of the reasons I always recommend turning the breaker off before plugging in the coach. No matter if you go straight to 30 or 50 amp or use an adaptor ALWAYS have everything plugged in before turning on the breaker.