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Old 08-09-2016, 12:57 AM   #43
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As a price point for those thinking it's not that big a difference.

Assuming say 125' run. <3% voltage drop. Meeting Table 310.16 Allowable Ampacities. Copper wire. (Aluminum can be used but requires larger wire)

For 30 amp you could get away with direct bury UF-B cable, though I'd still put it in conduit, the UF-B in 6/2 would cost about $155.
For 50 amp you'd end up needing to use 4 gauge cable USE-2. You'd need 4-4 cable equivalent, since you need an extra conductor, and would cost around $415. You could save a small amount by using a smaller ground, which is allowed if installed properly. This is 4 separate cables though so will require a little more labor.

That's a $260 difference.

But a $260 diff vs doing it twice!?

If you can square these numbers with the electrician, buy the wire yourself, rent a trencher, you could probably save some money having him make the final connections.
USE-2 and UF-B can both be direct buried but I'd put them in conduit. <$100 in materials. The 4 gauge will be fun pulling so go with a larger conduit(1-1/2 for more pulling room, 30 degree bends to make it easier).

Don't forget a permit! Hate to have to rip it all out!
Don't forget 811 call before digging.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:25 PM   #44
BAB
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I have two 50 amp boxes at home. One next to the shed I had built for the trailer. I keep the trailer plugged in at all times since I've got a high quality (non Airstream) Magnum inverter/charger, as well as a (redundant) PowerMax PM4B 60 AMP 4 stage Converter/Charger. I installed an additional Jamestown box adjacent to my driveway that covers the waterfront...50 amp, 30 amp, and 20 amp with GFCI. I use this box when I'm getting ready to launch for a trip, and it gives overnighters full electric as well. The biggest hassle in the installs is pulling that big cable from my main panel. The pain was worth it.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:47 PM   #45
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Neat setup!
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