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Old 08-02-2016, 07:08 PM   #15
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"Get the 50/30/20 amp pedestal. If you upgrade to a bigger or different trailer or RV in the future you'll be glad you paid a little more now than a lot more later." That's the best route. While you live there you have the ability to plug any coach into the proper outlet. It can be a selling point when you go to sell the place. The cost of doing it right won't be much more than putting in limited service.

To add to the topic, add a fresh water source in the same area while you're at it. If you can, add a sewer connection, too.
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:54 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Make sure the electrician understands the particulars when installing your RV service.
Many people have had damage done to their coach because the receptacle was wired for 240 volts.
This is extremely important. Many electricians think 30 amp RV receptacles are 240 volt, they are 120 volt. If they put in a 30 amp have them sign that they will pay for damage to your trailer if it is not the required 120 volt.(Might not be binding but, it will show you know your right and he needs to pay attention.)

Please note 50 amp RV receptacles are 240 volt.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:38 AM   #17
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"On a separate note, I am not sure I understand NY24's theory"

Easy. An outlet is wired to provide up to 50A. An RV wired for 30A service would have wires sized for that 30A (ie: smaller gauge wires). Using an adapter, you plug a 30A RV into that 50A service (which of course is actually TWO 50A legs for a total of 100A). Your RV which is wired for only 30A now has 50A available (possibly more if other mistakes were made). Should something go wrong (think Murphy's Law) and the RV's 30A breaker fails, you now have 50A flowing into an RV wired for only 30A. Extra amperage = extra heat = potential for disaster. JUST DON'T DO IT!

Even professional electricians make mistakes. If an electrician is thinking regular household appliances rather than RV service, he might wire a 50A RV receptacle to combine those two 120VAC legs so that only one 240VAC "leg" is provided (rather than two 120VAC legs most RVs needs). A 30A RV service can be miswired too. After ANY electrical work is done TEST it thoroughly before plugging in your RV. This is why ALL RVers should TEST RV pedestals before they plug their RVs in. Any RVer who doesn't know how to test outlets properly should invest $10 in Mike Sokol's excellent book "No~Shock~Zone RV Electrical Safety". The life and RV you save may be your own.

https://www.amazon.com/No~Shock~Zone...mm_pap_title_0
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:27 AM   #18
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"On a separate note, I am not sure I understand NY24's theory"



Easy. An outlet is wired to provide up to 50A. An RV wired for 30A service would have wires sized for that 30A (ie: smaller gauge wires). Using an adapter, you plug a 30A RV into that 50A service (which of course is actually TWO 50A legs for a total of 100A). Your RV which is wired for only 30A now has 50A available (possibly more if other mistakes were made). Should something go wrong (think Murphy's Law) and the RV's 30A breaker fails, you now have 50A flowing into an RV wired for only 30A. Extra amperage = extra heat = potential for disaster. JUST DON'T DO IT!



Even professional electricians make mistakes. If an electrician is thinking regular household appliances rather than RV service, he might wire a 50A RV receptacle to combine those two 120VAC legs so that only one 240VAC "leg" is provided (rather than two 120VAC legs most RVs needs). A 30A RV service can be miswired too. After ANY electrical work is done TEST it thoroughly before plugging in your RV. This is why ALL RVers should TEST RV pedestals before they plug their RVs in. Any RVer who doesn't know how to test outlets properly should invest $10 in Mike Sokol's excellent book "No~Shock~Zone RV Electrical Safety". The life and RV you save may be your own.



https://www.amazon.com/No~Shock~Zone...mm_pap_title_0

"he might wire a 50A RV receptacle to combine those two 120VAC legs so that only one 240VAC "leg" is provided (rather than two 120VAC "

No such thing as one 240vac leg is possible with residential service. The service coming into the property is 2-120vac legs and a neutral, no way to make it a single 240vac leg.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:49 AM   #19
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I'm just a country boy educated in West Virginia's public schools so I won't claim to know anything technical about 50amp vs 30amp other than my 50amp outlet I had installed in the garage works fine with the 30amp 25 'a/s we had. Same with 20 amp plug to 50 amp adapter we use to power the refrigerator before we leave on a trip. I would think the breaker in the a/s would trip if you overloaded the circuit even if it's adapted from a 50 amp rv outlet.
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:05 PM   #20
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30 Amp or 50 Amp?

Sheriff:
The 50 amp service to an RV is exactly as you stated. Nothing in the RV requires 240 volts.
With the exception of some of the million dollar buses that may have an electric dryer.
The 50 amp service is actually two 120 volt legs which share a common neutral.
Typically one of the 120 volt legs provides the power for virtually everything in the RV. The second 120 volt leg provides power to the second air conditioner.

In response to Tater's comments: The circuit breaker in the coach will not protect the wiring between the pedestal and the coach.
Circuit breakers only protect the wiring that is downstream.
If by some slight chance you would have a problem with an adaptor or power cord shorting the chances are you would see a fireball before the 50 amp breaker would trip. If not a fireball there would certainly be significant damage to any cord or adaptor that is not rated for 50 amps.
This is one of the reasons I always recommend turning the breaker off before plugging in the coach. No matter if you go straight to 30 or 50 amp or use an adaptor ALWAYS have everything plugged in before turning on the breaker.
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:14 PM   #21
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Add a 50 amp. You can use the 50 when you get your electric Tesla auto. That's what I did.

The 30 amp comes off one leg of the 50 amp 220 plug. Buy the correct adapter. That's why it is only 120 volt. Why it's not 25 amp is quite odd, but I'm not an electrician.

Still worried, buy a good surge protector for the trailer that will mount near the 50 amp adapter. EMS PT30C
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Old 08-06-2016, 04:55 PM   #22
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It is 50 amp on each hot leg. That's why it isn't 25 amp. There are 2 legs, a neutral and ground on 50 amp service.
The 30 amp adaptor uses 1leg, the neutral and the ground therefor when you use the 50 amp source there is 50 amps of power (6000 watts) available on that leg, but your adaptor is only good for 30 amps (3600 watts).
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:37 PM   #23
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Add a 50 amp. You can use the 50 when you get your electric Tesla auto. That's what I did.

The 30 amp comes off one leg of the 50 amp 220 plug. Buy the correct adapter. That's why it is only 120 volt. Why it's not 25 amp is quite odd, but I'm not an electrician.

Still worried, buy a good surge protector for the trailer that will mount near the 50 amp adapter. EMS PT30C

Is the EMS PT30C weather proof?
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:06 PM   #24
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Install 50... Wire properly (not 220!!!) use an "adapter" or buy A 50 AMP cord with A properly configured Airstream already attached!!!!

I like mine for the Airstream 50 amps.. Can prep for launch in he AC! I can also use the outlet to run my 110vac welder!!!! There are other reasons... I think you can figure those out!
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:14 PM   #25
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Install 50... Wire properly (not 220!!!) use an "adapter" or buy A 50 AMP cord with A properly configured Airstream already attached!!!!
If not 220, then what?

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Old 08-07-2016, 03:27 PM   #26
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If you install the system correctly you will have a sub panel with a 20amp, a 30amp and a 50amp breaker along with the appropriate receptacles matching the breakers.
If you have a coach which requires a 30 amp service you plug into the 30 amp receptacle and turn on the associated breaker.
Unless you have a coach with 2 air conditioners I doubt it will require more than a 30 amp service.
Do it once and do it right!

This will cost a bit more, but I believe this is the best route to go. It will also give you other wiring options as needed in the future.
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #27
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I just have a 50 amp receptacle on the front of my house because I have a 50 amp trailer.
There are other 15 or 20 amp receptacles on the house.
I chose the location based on where a water hydrant and sewer clean out are located.


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Old 08-08-2016, 11:10 AM   #28
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If not 220, then what?

Bruce
Bruce, to achieve 220/240 you use opposite phases "power legs" as we call them down in the swamp..

Here is a more professional but easy reading explanation.. I ignore the math...as it is not necessary for your question.

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/text...power-systems/
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