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Old 11-18-2013, 12:54 PM   #15
Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,925
220 open neutral is very bad. 110 open ground not immediately dangerous (no Hot shell). Reverse neutral hot or reverse ground to hot = hot shell, very dangerous. I have also lost a ground on the neutral at the box because of poor ground connection at the house. When the tree fell on the wires and the neutral became loose at the pole, everything got 220 in the house and we lost a lot of appliances. Electric company did not pay. They told me to collect from my household policy but that was $500 deductible.

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Old 11-18-2013, 01:47 PM   #16
2 Rivet Member
2012 31' Classic
The Villages , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 27
Images: 1
I encountered a similiar situation this past spring. I connected my trailer to my home circuit as I prepared to take a trip. My trailer is wired for 120 volt 30 amp only. Everything worked as normal for a while, then everything quit working except an LED night light. I noticed that the meter I keep plugged into an outlet next to the door indicated no voltage. A multi-meter indicated something like 5 or 6 volts present. My troubleshooting indicated that I had the proper voltage at the input receptical located on the rear of the trailer, but no neutral connection at the breaker box inside the trailer. The only thing in between those is the automatic delay relay switch (ADRS) for the generator input which has a receptical located on the front of the trailer. I rewired the relay shore line input neutral around the relay inside the ADRS. My only indication was what I mentioned above as nothing inside the trailer would work. I am sure if any of the electrical devices had neutral wired to ground they would have worked. Once the relay was replaced and rewired as it is supposed to be, everything worked as before. Leaves me with no confidence in the ADSR which is part of the standard package on my '12 Classic Limited- 31'.

Uncle Bill

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