30-amp diagram?

PWRSTRK · 08-23-2006, 06:36 PM

We had a building built to store our RVs. The electrician installed 30-amp outlets for us. However, both RVs, when plugged into those outlets, blew convertors and microwaves.

Naturally I'm concerned and want to start by testing the outlets myself even before discussing with the electrician.

Does anyone have a diagram for a proper 110-volt, 30-amp outlet and how I woiuld use my multitester to make sure it's EXACTLY RIGHT? I don't want to have to replace a third or fourth convertor or microwave.

Grrr.

Tom, and Frank

wkerfoot · 08-23-2006, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PWRSTRK

We had a building built to store our RVs. The electrician installed 30-amp outlets for us. However, both RVs, when plugged into those outlets, blew convertors and microwaves.

Naturally I'm concerned and want to start by testing the outlets myself even before discussing with the electrician.

Does anyone have a diagram for a proper 110-volt, 30-amp outlet and how I woiuld use my multitester to make sure it's EXACTLY RIGHT? I don't want to have to replace a third or fourth convertor or microwave.

Grrr.

Tom, and Frank

Tom and Frank,

I would call the electrician back and have him fix the problem. It is possible that there is a problem with the RV, but since it happened on two different ones I doubt it.

You could purchase a 30 to 15 amp adapter and plug in a simple outlet tester that can be purchased at any big box or local hardware store. It will tell you exactly what is happening with the wiring, open hot, open neutral, no ground, reversed neutral/ hot, etc.

Bill

SafeHarbor · 08-23-2006, 07:02 PM

Hi, Tom and Frank,

I agree - call the electrician. I think he has some explaining to do.

However, if you guys want to satisfy yourselves, turn OFF the circuit breaker and take the screws out above and below the plug, take the cover off, and then remove the screws holding the socket itself. Pull it out enough to see the connections.

Here's a picture of what it should look like:

http://users3.ev1.net/~crossstitch/RVWiring/30A.jpg

Note the wire colors and the terminal markings.

Good luck with this. I just had two of these put on a pole, and I'm not blowing anything when I plug in. You shouldn't be either.

Lamar

richg · 08-23-2006, 07:11 PM

It sounds like they wired you up for 220v. instead of 110v. This happened to me when an electrician wired a 30 amp plug for my trailer at my lot while the house was being built. It blew the charging ckt to the converter.
Richg

herrgirdner · 08-23-2006, 07:14 PM

"A picture is worth a thousand words" so goes the old saying. From your description of the problem, I suspect the electrician might have wired those outlets for 220 volts vice 115 volts. Check across the black (hot) and white (neutral) and see what the voltage reads. It should be in the range 110-120 volts. By the way, the bare wire (safety ground) and white wire (neutral) should read zero volts across them.

regards

firefly007 · 08-23-2006, 08:31 PM

Tom and Frank,
Keep in mind that even if the receptacle is wired properly, the connections at the load center could be wired 240. If both of the load wires are connected to breakers then you have 240. NEVER open the load center (fuse box) if you do not know what is in there. Almost everything in there will bite you.
Good luck
steve

Mike Lewis · 08-23-2006, 08:35 PM

I would call a different electrican!!!!!!----------pieman

lewster · 08-23-2006, 11:32 PM

I just had a service call where the new A/S was blowing the 30 amp breaker every time it was plugged in. The strange part was that other RV's never blew the same breaker.

After opening the 30A receptical box, it turned out that the installer (?) crosss wired the nuetral and hot into the 30A receptical. After reversing them to the correct sides, problem was solved!!

I agree with pieman.....Get someone who knows what they are wiring for!!!!!!

herrgirdner · 08-24-2006, 03:37 PM

I don't want to get into a piercing contest here, but if the electrician who wired up the receptacle did so in violation of the contracted work, that is, he was instructed to wire up 120 volt service and instead wired up 220 volt service, then he should be held liable for the damages. Or at least fix the wiring, free of charge.
One other thing. When I had a garage built a couple of years ago, I had a county building inspector come in and give the job his OK. It didn't cost anything, and I had peace of mind when I went to use it.
Hope things are turning out well.
regards

crowbar68 · 08-24-2006, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PWRSTRK

We had a building built to store our RVs. The electrician installed 30-amp outlets for us. However, both RVs, when plugged into those outlets, blew convertors and microwaves.

Naturally I'm concerned and want to start by testing the outlets myself even before discussing with the electrician.

Does anyone have a diagram for a proper 110-volt, 30-amp outlet and how I woiuld use my multitester to make sure it's EXACTLY RIGHT? I don't want to have to replace a third or fourth convertor or microwave.

Grrr.

Tom, and Frank

you do have a wiring problem and it was the electrician who created it. more than likely you have 220v going to the plug. if the hot (black wire) and neutral (white) were reversed that would be a direct short to ground and the breaker would pop instantly. if you had a open condition you would never get juice out of the outlet. the circuit is not complete. if it is a 110v outlet you should have three conductors like the picture shown. if you have 220v it should be a 4 conductor black, red, white and ground. a 220v circuit should have a double pole breaker at the panel as well vs. a single pole breaker for 110v, that you can check w/o a meter.

like somebody suggested, shut it off take it apart and look at the wires. test it before opening it up to be sure it is dead. you should get 110v or 220v or 0v between the prongs depending on how it was messed (wired) up.

crowbar

wlj1943 · 08-24-2006, 06:58 PM

I think Lew is correct on the possibliity of a roll between the neutral (white) and identified conductor (hot)and somewhere in my NEMA specifications I have the correct information; if I remember correctly when the 3 wire recepts were first required by NEC around 1966 or so, there was a problem first seen with the 3 wire adaptors; and my memory says that was the convention of the 15 amp 120 volt was intended to have the grounding conductor above the two identified conductors which is opposite the 30 amp, so the neutral ends up in the wrong place Still I suspect 240 Volt damage. If you need more later email a reminder( at my profile)
WLJ

crowbar68 · 08-25-2006, 05:46 PM

after thinking on my info, the hot and neutral can be reversed and not pop the breaker but can wreak havoc on polarity sensitve equipment. the hook-ups should be black wire to gold screw, white to silver and ground to green.

**john hd** · 08-25-2006, 05:59 PM

every 30 amp outlet i have purchased in the last year (5) is clearly marked black, white and green on the back.

i still find it hard to believe electricians still manage to fry a couple of forum member's trailers every year!

i think we are up to 4 this year!

john

PWRSTRK · 08-26-2006, 11:33 AM

220... all fixed up now. Electrician is as mad at himself as can be and happy to file insurance on our problems. This is life -- and this electrician has taken REALLY good care of my family for the last 15 years -- and will continue to do so.

Thank you ALL for your kind responses and concern. I especially appreciate the link to the diagram, which is interesting.

Tom, and Frank