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Old 01-08-2015, 10:01 AM   #15
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If it's done, leave it. Large gauge wiring is for circuits with high amperage loads...or SOLAR, where any small voltage drop can mean too large an amperage drop on solar panel output, where the inefficiencies are high with present technology. IIRC, most panels (that are affordable) are about 17% efficient in converting sunlight to electricity.

To ensure proper wire gauge, and not overspend on ever increasing copper cost, add up the total amp draw on a circuit and consult a wire gauge chart. I may, on some circuits go one size larger, if I feel there might be future additions to a circuit. IMO, 10 gauge is too large for most RV circuits used solely for lighting...especially LED. Water pump circuits, furnace circuits etc. demand larger gauge.
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:24 PM   #16
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OK, so even my 8 gauge 12V wiring is overkill, the only downsides are that it was more expensive and it's harder to work with. Functionally, it will be just as good as if I went with 10 or 12, and maybe a bit better for less voltage drop and durability.

I'm glad not to have to redo it, but a little bummed I didn't make the best choice.

Thanks again.
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:10 PM   #17
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No biggie....just $$$$. Better oversized than undersized and have to do it over!
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:41 PM   #18
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As Thalweg stated if you got it then use it... There is no reason to redo it at this point, just make sure the connections are done correct and secured. Heavy wire seams to move around more than light gauge wire. Im glad my picture helps, sometimes pictures are way better than words! By the way you have a great year trailer, seven panel trailers are in my opinion the best looking...
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:55 PM   #19
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For 10g or smaller I use crimp butt connectors, they are availible with shrink ends, but I use regular with heat shrink tubing over connection this is weather proof and will not come apart. To shrink I use heat gun from harbor frt., they are not expensive and will not damage insulation on wires, any other way will destroy wires etc. I even use under ground this way.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:15 PM   #20
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Since it is done, my only comment would be to not overfuse the #8 wire with high current fuses. The smaller internal wires in things like light fixtures, fans, and even water pumps must not be fused at any more than 15 amps, which then sets the limit on the fuse to even the #8 wire. You must fuse for the weakest link, those internal wires within the equipment.
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:22 AM   #21
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To answer the original question, there are ones like this from the car audio world.

But you'll note they usually have an input of (for example) 0 or 1 gauge, and an output of 4/8 gauge. There's a good electrical reason for that. The current capacity of two 8-gauge wires would clearly exceed the capacity of one 8-gauge wire, so the 'source' wire or the wire that's going to be carrying more current should be larger.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:09 AM   #22
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Wiring

Lots of good advice here, and I would add, liquid insulation can be helpful, then wrap with good electrical tape. Also, heat shrink material can be purchased as a tape for those situations where one cannot access the end of a wire,i.e., something in situ.

I like to use AWG 8, for a main feed line, then wrap AWG 14 around this and solder, for my connections. This results in a mechanically strong connection. Also, when running feeder lines, pull a foot of slack and make certain this relieves any stress on the feed lines. Nothing worse than having taught electrical wires.

I learned long ago, on vehicles subject to the rigors of road and off road bumps and bruises, heavy wiring, sturdy connections are essential for reliability. And, most of us do not want a failure on the road.
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:32 AM   #23
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Marine grade connections....

Just what I do.....

I've learned over the years that for small gauge wiring exposed to the elements it's best to use 'marine grade shrink wrap connectors' then covering it entirely shrink tubing. I do not solder these because I've found that the stiff soldered connection can fatigue over time.

Bob
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Just what I do.....

I've learned over the years that for small gauge wiring exposed to the elements it's best to use 'marine grade shrink wrap connectors' then covering it entirely shrink tubing. I do not solder these because I've found that the stiff soldered connection can fatigue over time.

Bob
I agree with Bob, in this case. The shrink/glue sealed terminals are great...and if you try and solder these, the excess head ruins the heat shrink material.
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