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Old 09-14-2011, 10:09 AM   #1
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1976 Argosy 26
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26' Argosy charging and lighting

my 26 footer has been somewhat jim rigged and the univolt is resting on the rear bumper with 110V running in and out feeding some aftermarket flood lights outside and canlights in the bathroom. I see that the 12V DC wires seem to still be hooked as I have ohm ed to some interior lights inside. However the lights won't work. I want to put the univolt back inside where it belongs but am at a loss as how to rewire and knowing exactly what wires go where. I'm pretty sure what is wired now is not right. Any body got pictures or diagrams easy to follow? I actually have the manual but is kinda vague as to actual routing. Thanks and this place is awesome for finding out anything!!!
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:34 PM   #2
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1969 27' Overlander
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I'm sort of in the same boat with my '69.
The PO did some "work" on it.
My Univolt is located in front of the bathroom, on the passenger side. There's a hatch on the side. I'm not sure if they all are like that.
If you can scan the wiring diagrams, maybe I can help (electronics is my background).
I would start at the Univolt, with a meter or test light, and see if it's putting out 12volts. If so, test at each light fixture to see if the 12 volts is arriving. If so, maybe just bad bulbs/switches.
The battery charge circuit is more complex.
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:13 PM   #3
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1976 Argosy 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edglenn View Post
I'm sort of in the same boat with my '69.
The PO did some "work" on it.
My Univolt is located in front of the bathroom, on the passenger side. There's a hatch on the side. I'm not sure if they all are like that.
If you can scan the wiring diagrams, maybe I can help (electronics is my background).
I would start at the Univolt, with a meter or test light, and see if it's putting out 12volts. If so, test at each light fixture to see if the 12 volts is arriving. If so, maybe just bad bulbs/switches.
The battery charge circuit is more complex.
I have not had much luck plutting pictures on here. I owuld have to use a camera, no scanner.
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Old 09-16-2011, 11:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixer76
my 26 footer has been somewhat jim rigged and the univolt is resting on the rear bumper with 110V running in and out feeding some aftermarket flood lights outside and canlights in the bathroom. I see that the 12V DC wires seem to still be hooked as I have ohm ed to some interior lights inside. However the lights won't work. I want to put the univolt back inside where it belongs but am at a loss as how to rewire and knowing exactly what wires go where. I'm pretty sure what is wired now is not right. Any body got pictures or diagrams easy to follow? I actually have the manual but is kinda vague as to actual routing. Thanks and this place is awesome for finding out anything!!!
I have a pic of my univolt before removal from my 76 Argosy Ill send you a pm as i have run out of picture space on the forum
Matt
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:28 PM   #5
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The only thing I can get at any of the fuse holders in the univolt is .3 volts VDC. Fuses do not appear to be blown and they all ohm out.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:38 AM   #6
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1969 27' Overlander
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Unipower

.3 volts is probably just transient voltage on the line. Use a test light to check for enough current at the fuses.
Are you sure the Unipower is actually getting 120 vac? Check at the Unipower terminals. Is there a fuse inside the Unipower?
Is there 12 vdc at the battery terminal? The battery charger should have an independent output, seperate from the other 12 volt terminals.
Check to make sure the Unipower has a good 12 volt ground. I think mine has a ground at the front of the trailer, where the trailer plug enters the trailer.
Another quick test is to use a 12 volt power supply to connect to the filed devices. I use a cheap battery charger from Harbor Freight, which has a 2/6 amp output. It's prtected against shorts, and puts out enough power at 2 amps to operate lights, etc. Pull the fuses at the fuse bank, and connect to the field devices. Make sure you connect to a frame ground, not the battery terminal (It might not have a good connection).
If you get the filed devices to operate, then the Unipower isn't putting out voltage.
In short (pardon the pun), find out if the Unipower isn't working, or if the filed devices or wiring is bad.
That's a start!
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:15 AM   #7
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Thank you for the info, I will start this afternoon. The univolt is getting power but no 12V anywhere. I was actually thinking of just using a battery tender or charger. There is no battery but I have a nice ultra deep cycle I am going to install. Thanks again for the info!
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:28 PM   #8
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Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
Remember, if you're going to use a battery to test circuits, make sure you have an in-line fuse. Batteries can put out +500 amps, and burn out wiring!
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:19 AM   #9
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1974 Argosy 26
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We recently purchassed a 74 Argosy and can't get the running lights and tail lights to work. All interior is working and all fuses are good. Any suggestions of where to start?
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:25 AM   #10
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No power to running lights

We recently purchased a 74 Argosy 26' and are ready to head south. The only problem is we have no running lights or tail lights. We have all interior working including AC. Do you have any suggestions of where to start?
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:35 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by mesquitebean View Post
We recently purchassed a 74 Argosy and can't get the running lights and tail lights to work. All interior is working and all fuses are good. Any suggestions of where to start?
The interior lights work of of the trailer's 12 volt system. The running lights run off of the trucks power. The wiring of the cable between the trailer and the truck would be suspect. The pin layout has changed over the years. I would verify that the pins on the truck match the wires to the trailer.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:36 AM   #12
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1975 Argosy 24
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Add "Grounding Points" into the elctrical system
by drill&srew or bolts. Crimp eyelet connectors
on stranded wire 12 guage white.

Points: (needing good ground connection to frame)
a. Rear bumber area of truck.
b. Tongue of trailer
c. Near the charger/converter
d. electrical bond(ground wire) the frame of trailer to the alum. skin

Clean all grounding connections
to be free of corrosion - then tighten very tight.

Clean under the running lights fixtures - corrosion
leads to a bad ground - also a good time to "Test Light"
and see if ya got power to each lamp.

Slow down - you'll be a while - it'll pay off though.

Oh yes - the "Fuse holder" itself(to power running lights) - inside the charger- ya may have to dismount the charger and get behind the actual fuseholder to solidify
a vibration steady connection.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:53 AM   #13
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Chances are your trailer is not wired the same as your TV. I can post info for you if you have not resolved the problem as of today. You should rewire the 7 pin plug on the trailer to match your TV.
Just to verify that things work and to ID what is what on the trailer, you can use a battery charger to check it out. Just connect the chargers black lead to a clean spot on the trailer frame. Then use the red lead of the charger to test each of the seven pins or wires on the trailers umbilical cord. There will normally only be 6 of the seven pins used. The center pin is usually not used.
The 5 circuits are as follows: The 6th is ground/common
1. Marker and tail lights
2. Left turn/brake light
3. Right turn/brake light
4. Charge line for house battery from TV
5. Trailer brakes.

Good Luck
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:49 AM   #14
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Tried to post some pics of how things are wired. Get a message that I've exceeded my quota. If you send me a PM with your email address. I will send them that way.
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