1975 31' Sovereign generator placement

[HerbL]

I am doing a complete, (I mean Complete)! interior renovation on my '75 31' Sovereign. I've decided to do away with the Dometic fridge and would like to have DC power when camping on the National Seashore here in South Texas. I have my solid 1/4" thick strip Honduran mahogany floor down and will be installing new bunks, cabinets, vanity, galley, and furniture this week.
My question is I need help with suggestions on placement of a 4k to 5k propane generator. Since I'm doing away with the original Dometic 3 way fridge and going with a newer dual voltage or straight 110 volt AC unit, I'm thinking placing it near the 30 amp AC distribution panel under the left rear bunk. There is already an external access door there and the wiring in would be straight forward. Noise and heat are somewhat of a concern. Also I'll be EXTREMELY careful regarding carbon monoxide risk.
Anyone done this?
Sound enclosures?
Generator brands?
4KW enough? I'm all LED lighting and remaining appliances are gas.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by HerbL

I am doing a complete, (I mean Complete)! interior renovation on my '75 31' Sovereign. I've decided to do away with the Dometic fridge and would like to have DC power when camping on the National Seashore here in South Texas. I have my solid 1/4" thick strip Honduran mahogany floor down and will be installing new bunks, cabinets, vanity, galley, and furniture this week.
My question is I need help with suggestions on placement of a 4k to 5k propane generator. Since I'm doing away with the original Dometic 3 way fridge and going with a newer dual voltage or straight 110 volt AC unit, I'm thinking placing it near the 30 amp AC distribution panel under the left rear bunk. There is already an external access door there and the wiring in would be straight forward. Noise and heat are somewhat of a concern. Also I'll be EXTREMELY careful regarding carbon monoxide risk.
Anyone done this?
Sound enclosures?
Generator brands?
4KW enough? I'm all LED lighting and remaining appliances are gas.

A generator of that size should be located as close to the axles as possible.

Running it on LPG will not give you very many hours as you are limited to 20 gallons of it.

You must also build a steel cage for the generator, in the case of a fire. Also, that cage "MUST NOT" have any seams.

Your idea is nice, but the practicality is horrible.

Andy

[overlander64]

Greetings HerbL!

Originally Posted by HerbL

My question is I need help with suggestions on placement of a 4k to 5k propane generator. Since I'm doing away with the original Dometic 3 way fridge and going with a newer dual voltage or straight 110 volt AC unit, I'm thinking placing it near the 30 amp AC distribution panel under the left rear bunk. There is already an external access door there and the wiring in would be straight forward. Noise and heat are somewhat of a concern. Also I'll be EXTREMELY careful regarding carbon monoxide risk.
Anyone done this?
Sound enclosures?
Generator brands?
4KW enough? I'm all LED lighting and remaining appliances are gas.

The only time that Airstream offered a generator permanently installed in one of its trailers, it was a small propane genset that was mounted ahead of the axles and it only provided 12-volts to recharge the batteries. While I haven't considered a genset for either of my Airstreams, things to consider include:

• Restructuring of frame to carry the additional weight. The 1970s Airstreams were built with an eye toward light weight, and the frames on the longer trailers experienced problems with droop and fractures without the additional weight of a generator.
• Weight balance and maintenance of adequate hitch weight. The bare minimum hitch weight is 10% of the loaded coach's weight . . . and towing stability can be improved with closer to 15% of the loaded coach's weight on the hitch. I suspect that this may pose an issue with a genset mounted behind the axles.
• Placement of windows in relation to genset exhaust. While propane fueled generators tend to be cleaner in their operation there is still the concern for keeping the exhaust from being drawn back into the trailer.

While what you propose is not impossible, it is likely to require some considerable re-engineering of the chassis.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

[jerry d]

4Kw-5 Kw is too small to run AC. Get a portable Genset and chain it to the hitch, axle or bumper when camping.

[withidl]

Reference "withidl" posts on the following link, pages 2, 3 and 4: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...s-68808-2.html

[lewster]

Originally Posted by jerry d

4Kw-5 Kw is too small to run AC. Get a portable Genset and chain it to the hitch, axle or bumper when camping.

I BEG TO DIFFER!

Folks regularly run 13.5 K roof A/C units on the Yamaha 2400 inverter type generator and also run their roof A/C on a pair of 2000 watt Hondas or Yamahas.

A 3000 watt is definitely sufficient to run a 15K, as it draws at most 16 running amps at 95º F (per the data plate on the unit). This translates to 1920 watts. These generators can easily handle the fleeting higher amp draw from the start-up of the units.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by jerry d

4Kw-5 Kw is too small to run AC.

I don't know where you came up with that information, but it is absolutely incorrect. Most RV generators, at least up to very recent times, are 4.5Kw. A pair of Honda 2000 generators have more than enough power for running a rooftop 13.5K air conditioner, with power to spare for the occasional microwave. The only reason for larger generators in modern motor homes is to power two roof air conditioners at the same time.