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Old 10-12-2011, 03:49 PM   #1
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1969 Safari - Wiring Diagram

Does anyone knows how we can find the wiring diagram for a 1969 23' Safari Land Yacht?
We just got into this project and of course: NOTHING WORKS!!
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:59 PM   #2
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Going to need a little more detail...What does not work ? Do any of the 120v outlets work when the camper is plugged in ? Do you have power getting to the univolt or breaker panel ?. Best bet is to take your volt meter and start from the shore power and work your way in :-)
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:00 PM   #3
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BTW....welcome to the Forums :-)
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:08 PM   #4
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Hi Kevo
Thanks for the welcome!
Nothing at all is working. And I am far from being an electrician but with a good voltammeter a wiring schematics and good insulated tools I don't mind re-doing the whole thing.
But as is right now I'm still wondering why 2 breaker boxes (1 in the bathroom & 1 in the front panel) and what is that blue box? An inverter? I can place a battery or wires for one
Please help!!!
Thanks
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:30 PM   #5
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The blue box is the univolt which is a 120 v to 12v converter. Ill check to see if I have a diagram from my Tradewind. If I do i'll down load it tomarrow.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arodriguez60 View Post
The blue box is the univolt which is a 120 v to 12v converter. Ill check to see if I have a diagram from my Tradewind. If I do i'll down load it tomarrow.

He is correct, you most likely have one breaker dedicated to the Univolt, ( converter ) So, shore power would come in to the breaker box, just like a house, from there your 120 volt power that runs your outlets would be on a different breaker.

The Univolt will have a couple of good size wires that run to your 12 volt fuse panel, where all the 12 volt circuits are fed from. (lights, water pump, furnace, etc )

I would start by checking to make sure you have 120 volts leaving the breaker panel to rule out any bad breakers. If you have 120 volts going in to the Univolt and do not have 12 volts coming out, then almost certainly the Univolt is bad. And if its not bad, replace it anyway. You can find many posts here telling you all 2000 reasons you need to replace it. I would also check to make sure you have 120 volts at your outlets.

And not to insult anyone's intelligence, make sure you have 120 coming in to the camper, from shore power. I cant tell you how many times, i have seen people plug their camper in to the house and trip a GFCI circuit somewhere, think they have power and really don't !

More pictures of the other fuse box will help...

Kevin
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:04 PM   #7
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You WIll Need a New Converter

The Univolt will need to be replaced.
Here's an informative link: Airstream Univolt
The wiring diagram you are looking for may be found here as well.

I have installed Progressive Dynamics converters in two Airstreams but I am told by "Lewster" of these forums that PRogressive Dynamics has been supplanted by Iota DLS as the best converter (you will want the DLS 30 with IQ4).

Lewster is correct about most things technical.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:08 PM   #8
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The Iota is what I used and have been very pleased so far...
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:17 PM   #9
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Call Randy at Best Converters. I got my Iota from him for my 68 and have been very pleased.
All your lights will be 12V DC, outlets of course will be 120AC. Without a battery connected in the system, the 12V lights won't work. The AC and DC systems are separate. The only interconnection is a 120 v line to power the Univolt. On my 68 Trade Wind I had 3 breakers in the box. One for the Univolt and the curb side outlets,one for the Air Conditioner and one for the street side outlets. Yours may be different but with a DVM and long jumper wire you can quickly find out with outlets go to which circuit. Just continuity test, no power to the system.
Oh, welcome to the Forums.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:55 AM   #10
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Here is a diagram from my 69 tradewind[IMG]file:///C:/Users/175594/Desktop/2011-10-12_21.21.17-1.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:39 AM   #11
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this might be clearer
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Old 10-13-2011, 10:12 AM   #12
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'69 wiring...

Anthony, if you can scan the wiring diagram in higher resolution as a PDF, I'd love a copy for my records. Any original documents are rare.
As for the '69 wiring, I think it's the same as my '69 Overlander. The pictures look the same. This is what I have traced out on mine:
The RV plug and cord at the back of the trailer goes directly to the Main 30 amp breaker box in the bathroom closet above the water heater.
From there, the 120 vac circuit runs in a white Romex around the rear of the trailer, past the fuse block in the rear, past the blue converter (Univolt) on the side cargo hatch, up inside the wall, along with the bundle of wires (from the fuse block in the back cargo area), all the way up front to the Secondary breaker panel at the Command Center. The
Secondary breaker panel in the front has several breakers. One breaker feeds the 110 vac outlets inside the trailer. One breaker feeds back to the Univolt. There may be another breaker feeding the outlet behind the Command Center.
If "nothing" works, the main 30 amp panel would be the place to check. You might have a bad RV plug, or bad breaker. If that's good, check the front breaker panel, and see if the 110 vac is there. Then follow the branch circuits from there.
If the Univolt is "humming", it has 110 vac. You can test at the fuse block assembly in the rear cargo hatch, to see if there is 12 volts DC back there.
The 12 volt wiring is a little strange, because the 12 volts runs from the Univolt, back to the 12 volt fuse block, across several connections, and then out to the Command Center, then out to the cabin lights and other stuff. A couple wires run from the resistor plate to the Amp gauge at the Command Cenetr, too. I can dig up the wiring detail, if needed.
Also, the Univolt WILL provide 12 volts to the cabin lights, etc, without having a battery connected.
Replacing the Univolt with an electronic charging system is much better on the batteries, and is cleaner power, but you don't HAVE to replace it right away.
*****
I reconfigured my wiring for heavy duty use. I didn't like the 120 volts running all the way to the front, and then back to the Univolt. (I'm using (2) inverters and (2) batteries for 4,000 watts of battery power.)
I removed the Main 30 amp panel (which is actually a 60 amp load center) entirely, re-routed the RV plug to where the Univolt is, and installed the 4 circuit breaker panel on the bathroom wall below the bed. (I removed it from the front Command Center, and connected the cabin outlets and Command Center together onto a single 20 amp circuit.
I installed 4 breakers in the new breaker box, and connected them to; the Univolt (now electronic unit for 12VDC and battery charging), the cabin outlets and Command Center, another circuit for a 120 volt water heater, and the last circuit is dedicated to a set of outlets feeding heat tape that is distributed all along the new PEX plumbing.
I also connected the switched circuit that feeds the Marine water pump, to the new propane water heater, so it only operates when the water pump is ON.
Hope that helps shed some light on the wiring.
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