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Old 09-24-2003, 03:53 PM   #15
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It is true there is not a charge circuit that prevents over charging,but this is not just a simple battery charger , It is a split phase power supply that works like a 2 phase ,by using only a single phase power source it has a second primary winding that is coupled with 3 caps,I know everyone thinks those caps are filtering ......but they are not ....rather they are used for phase shifting . These are really cool Clean supplies ,cleaner than switching supplies which is the most common type avil today.Plus it can deliver a true 45 amps at 12.5 to 13.5 volts. All it uses is a huge transformer "ie. lots of cooper" ,3 caps , and 3 diodes, The transformer is the expensive part .Only real down fall of these supplies is that they commonly hum from the windings ,this can range from a very subtle hum to a very annoying keep u up all night hum ,BTW the hum does not affect the perfomance of the the supply. But as Garry stated it will over charge your battery , I am workin on a simple circuit that will eliminate this problem. Chuck if I recall my supply put out about 13.5 volts with no load ,if I get a chance I will go out and check it for you just to make sure .But you still need to take the battery and have it load tested ,it is the only way you can be sure your battery is AOK.

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Old 09-25-2003, 07:07 AM   #16
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But you still need to take the battery and have it load tested ,it is the only way you can be sure your battery is AOK
will do; its on my list. in the mean time, I'm trying to see if I can get a charge on the battery.

So, last night, after leaving it on the univolt for 12 hours, it read 13.2. I unplugged it from the univolt, and it started to settle down to around 12.6...kept moving up to 12.7 and back. I turned on a couple of lights in the trailer, and then the voltage dropped just a little, but below 12.6. after reading phred's poop sheet on the subject, I was aware that the battery would still be "stirred up" from being on the charger, so I let it sit overnight off the charger. This morning, it read 12.45, steady. So I plugged it back in to the univolt for another session. We'll see what it looks like when I get home tonight.

Oh, and 71: can you tell me where I can get these replacement capacitors, should it turn out that I need new ones?

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Old 10-08-2003, 08:34 AM   #17
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Just wanted to report back on the conclusion of this saga....turns out that the battery was indeed "shot". I was able to get it to charge back up to a steady 12.65 volts, but it wouldn't handle any load at all. even a couple of the overhead lights being on would drop the voltage way down.

So I brought it back to Sears...had to deal with some guy with a thick accent that obviously didn't know anything about batteries their rinky-dink simple tester said the battery was "good". (I couldn't tell from looking at this thing whether it was a volt meter, or what. it just had lights on it to tell the monkey operating it "good" or "bad". ). After some prodding, I got the guy to put it on what I "think" was a load tester. whatever it was, it was a serious looking machine that did an exhaustive test, then told us it was going to take a half-hour to charge the battery. So I wandered off into the mall, and when I came back, einstein informed me that the battery failed the test, and needed replacement. They prorated it, so I only had to pay 30 bucks.
so thismorning, I put it in the trailer, and did a quick voltage reading...12.4 . I hope they didn't just give me another lemon. I plugged in the shore power so the univolt could charge it up....we'll see what happens.

Oh, and those funky readings from my voltmeter: turns out that was a bad battery, too. once I replaced it, my "138vac" from the house came down to 118v.
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Old 10-08-2003, 11:12 AM   #18
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I will not buy a Diehard ever again. In my service van I was lucky to get a year out of them.

Running Duralasts from Auto Zone in all my personal vehicles. Never had a problem. We even severly mistreated one by accident. left the lights on a ran it flat dead. Couldn't even get the dome light on. Threw it on the charger for about 5 hours and it made a complete recovery. The battery was already 3 years old and we sold the truck a year after that. The battery had a 3 year replacement warranty and 8 years totale with the last 5 being prorated. Think I paid $70 for it. It was a conventional 1,000 CCA . Biggest that would fit the vehicle (was for a deisel application) I haven't tried their deep cycles but I will once I get this coach back together.
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1988 R20 454 Suburban.
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Old 10-08-2003, 11:15 AM   #19
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12V problem

I guess i would use Interstates for starting and Trojan batteries for deep cycle. Just repeating what a long term gunkholer told me.

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