Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-12-2006, 06:28 PM   #15
New Member
 
fentress , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
where are the wires going to the amp meter. if the amp meter is disconnected there is no circuit.
__________________

__________________
brad50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 07:50 PM   #16
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Erie , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
Images: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Maybe. Is that a 12v charge line from the tow vehicle hooked to the three ground wires (univolt, chassis, and battery)? The charge line is positive as well, if that is what I am seeing.
I mislabeled it, it is the 12v negative from the truck.
__________________

__________________
jrk247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 07:52 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Erie , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
Images: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad50
where are the wires going to the amp meter. if the amp meter is disconnected there is no circuit.

I unhooked those wires when I was trying to figure out what was wrong. So they were hooked up when the problem started, just not during picture taking. The fuses in the amp meter wires are good, as well as the fuse on the control panel.
__________________
jrk247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 08:05 PM   #18
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,189
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrk247
I unhooked those wires when I was trying to figure out what was wrong. So they were hooked up when the problem started, just not during picture taking. The fuses in the amp meter wires are good, as well as the fuse on the control panel.
If and when you get this sorted out, you may want to consider a voltmeter instead of the ammeter. The voltmeter can tell you just as much as the ammeter, without the possibility of a short circuit in the gauge causing a meltdown, as the entire load will no longer have to pass through the gauge to show what is going on.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 08:33 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Erie , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
Images: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
If and when you get this sorted out, you may want to consider a voltmeter instead of the ammeter. The voltmeter can tell you just as much as the ammeter, without the possibility of a short circuit in the gauge causing a meltdown, as the entire load will no longer have to pass through the gauge to show what is going on.
So let me get this straight...on the negative end of things, when running off the battery the negative runs through the tiny wires to the ammeter and back before getting to the fuse for the battery? So if there is a problem with the ammeter that would explain why I can't run off battery power when everything is hooked up the way it was. How would I incorporate a voltmeter?
__________________
jrk247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 08:39 PM   #20
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,189
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrk247
So let me get this straight...on the negative end of things, when running off the battery the negative runs through the tiny wires to the ammeter and back before getting to the fuse for the battery? So if there is a problem with the ammeter that would explain why I can't run off battery power when everything is hooked up the way it was. How would I incorporate a voltmeter?
Yes, all loads go theough the ammeter. And the voltmeter is simple. Hook up 12v+ to one lead of the voltmeter, and ground the other lead. Voltage is shown, and can have a fuse to protect further against shorts in the line. The fuse can be as little as a couple of amps.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 10:25 PM   #21
New Member
 
fentress , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
take a wire and short out where the amp meter went . if things start to work then the meter is bad or the wires going to and from it.
__________________
brad50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2006, 11:23 PM   #22
3 Rivet Member
 
crowbar68's Avatar
 
1975 27' Overlander
fort wayne , Indiana
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 184
meters

you might want to get some help on this project.
__________________
crowbar68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2006, 07:41 AM   #23
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Erie , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
Images: 15
I did get this fixed.

Hello,
Not to leave a problem open I was able to get this resolved. I replaced all old with new and everything works great. I wasn't able to find maxi-blade fuse holders for the mains so I went with self resetting breakers (which is what the guy at the rv dealer told me they use today). Maybe I will find them this winter as I would rather have those. I also put a larger deep cycle battery where the univolt was located, It's going to go outside next year when the hydraulic brake hardware goes. So far everything seems to be working great. All that needs done now is the battery moved outside, and the holes patched over.

Thanks

Jake
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	S5000704.JPG
Views:	71
Size:	119.8 KB
ID:	26454   Click image for larger version

Name:	S5000705.JPG
Views:	84
Size:	120.0 KB
ID:	26455  

Click image for larger version

Name:	S5000706.JPG
Views:	73
Size:	122.6 KB
ID:	26456  
__________________
jrk247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2006, 09:20 AM   #24
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Jake,

Looks good. What did you do with the ammeter shunt?
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2006, 09:48 AM   #25
2 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Erie , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
Images: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Jake,

Looks good. What did you do with the ammeter shunt?
I'm not sure what the ammeter shunt is...but if it's the bar in my previous pictures where the ammeter wires hook to, I'm not using it. When I move the battery I'm going to hook up a voltmeter...less headache I guess from previous posts.

Jake
__________________

__________________
jrk247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
12v


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
electrical problem ALANSD Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 23 09-13-2015 08:20 PM
Engine Revving Problem winner Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 19 02-08-2010 11:05 PM
Inverter problem Don McKelvay Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 2 11-03-2002 06:40 AM
12V question uwe Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 16 09-05-2002 02:14 PM
Electrical problem resolved davidz71 Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 5 08-12-2002 09:21 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.