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Old 04-13-2006, 12:39 AM   #1
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12 volt wall light parts for '66 overlander

Has anyone found a source for the ball and socket knuckles which allow the aluminum light fixture heads to adjust for directional lighting. I have 3 - 2 headed wall lights in my trailer and all of the knuckles in question have popped out and seem broken. These parts must be available somewhere. Thanks James
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Old 04-13-2006, 05:02 PM   #2
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Substitute for wall light bushing

I found that a piece of 3/8" silicone rubber tubing slit up the side with a razor blade works nicely as a substitute bushing for the wall lights in my '72 International. This holds the ball of the light unit snugly in the hole where it rotates.

By the way, I replaced the power-hungry lamps in mine with white LED arrays from SuperBright LED's. These are quite enough for night reading and/or accent, and use very little power.
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince Brach
I found that a piece of 3/8" silicone rubber tubing slit up the side with a razor blade works nicely as a substitute bushing for the wall lights in my '72 International. This holds the ball of the light unit snugly in the hole where it rotates.

By the way, I replaced the power-hungry lamps in mine with white LED arrays from SuperBright LED's. These are quite enough for night reading and/or accent, and use very little power.
Vince, can you post a picture of your technique here? I, and I'm sure others, would be most interested in this. Thank!

John
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technautica
Has anyone found a source for the ball and socket knuckles which allow the aluminum light fixture heads to adjust for directional lighting. I have 3 - 2 headed wall lights in my trailer and all of the knuckles in question have popped out and seem broken. These parts must be available somewhere. Thanks James
In the spirit of originality, I just recently rebuilt all of mine. I disassembled each one, and sanded and painted them with a Rustoleum textured paint on the outside, and used a high temp white on the inside. It's only slightly darker than the original paint. as far as the ball and socket knuckles, all of mine popped back together nicely, most of them had popped out and were hanging loose. They are kept in place by the spring, and kind of a curved washer at the top of the socket. To take care of the oxidation I gently chucked them into my drill press and used "met-all" polish. they shined up beautifully. I'll try and post pictures later.
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:33 PM   #5
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More on wall lights, plus pix

Here are some images of my cheap repair job of the ball-and-socket wall lights in my '72 International. The new "bushing" is a piece of 3/8" medical silicone rubber tubing, cut lengthwise with a razor blade. It is a very snug fit--don't plan on moving the lamp much!

The LED is from Super Bright LED's, #1157W30 narrow angle @$14.99/ea. These are quite bright enough to read by, but they don't put out the same "space-filling" light that a regular lamp does. However--they burn a tiny fraction of the power!
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Old 05-07-2006, 07:50 PM   #6
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A little late, but here's the pictures of mine. I emailed them to technautica earlier, but in case anyone else needed the visual.
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Old 05-08-2006, 05:53 AM   #7
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Error on wall lights

After looking at the images of my '72 Ambassador wall lights versus those from the '66 Overlander, I see that we were talking about apples and oranges. Sorry for the mistake!
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Old 05-08-2006, 08:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince Brach
After looking at the images of my '72 Ambassador wall lights versus those from the '66 Overlander, I see that we were talking about apples and oranges. Sorry for the mistake!
Thats the great thing about being able to post pics, you can't always tell if it's the same item by description only. I'll bet your solution will help someone that looks here, good looking fix. I like the LEDs I am considering trying them out in my lamps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by technautica
Has anyone found a source for the ball and socket knuckles which allow the aluminum light fixture heads to adjust for directional lighting. I have 3 - 2 headed wall lights in my trailer and all of the knuckles in question have popped out and seem broken. These parts must be available somewhere. Thanks James
I will be watching this post I have one of mine that will stay in until you move it then it comes loose.
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Old 06-25-2006, 09:00 PM   #9
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Wall light repairs/replacement

Just a follow up to this thread. I also need a fix for these lamps or a suitable replacement. Apparrently missing the "small lock in washer."
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:47 AM   #10
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Here's how I fixed mine..

I fixed mine a couple of weeks ago. I was fortunate enough that the PO left two new ball and socket parts, so I had two broken ones to experiment with first before repairing the other 4. The trick is to take the lights completely apart. You'll need some regular pliars, needle nose pliars and vice grips. Take the ball and socket ends and stick them into a vice and squeeze the ball back into the socket. After that, I took a pair of vice grips and crimped the last 1/8" or so. Turn it 90deg. and crimp again. After completeing the first one, I pulled on the thing with moderate pressure to try and separate the two, but they held fine. Let me know if anything is unclear, I can post pics more step by step if needed this evening. --dave

BTW- There was no lock washer on any of my lights.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:32 AM   #11
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wall lamps

Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamin 65
I fixed mine a couple of weeks ago. I was fortunate enough that the PO left two new ball and socket parts, so I had two broken ones to experiment with first before repairing the other 4. The trick is to take the lights completely apart. You'll need some regular pliars, needle nose pliars and vice grips. Take the ball and socket ends and stick them into a vice and squeeze the ball back into the socket. After that, I took a pair of vice grips and crimped the last 1/8" or so. Turn it 90deg. and crimp again. After completeing the first one, I pulled on the thing with moderate pressure to try and separate the two, but they held fine. Let me know if anything is unclear, I can post pics more step by step if needed this evening. --dave

BTW- There was no lock washer on any of my lights.
Dave, I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your fix and any more instructions on how you did this. Thanks Ed
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:22 PM   #12
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Light Fixture Fix

Here's a more step by step with some pics I took today. The lights are already installed, so I have no pics of how to disassemble them, but hopefully this helps.
1. Remove the big nut holding the fixture on.
2. I had to drill out the rivets that held the mounting bracket to the wall to get to the wiring.
3. Unwire the fixture.
4. Remove the bulb and the nut that is on the switch (top of cone). Then remove the insides of the light. There's a reflector, switch, spring and socket for the bulb all in one unit. It's a little tricky, but it'll come out with some patience and feeding the wires through the ball/socket part.
5. Put some needle nose pliars on the nut inside the cone and a small wrench or pliars around the square washer just outside the cone and loosen the nut.
6. Then remove the nut that holds the socket part to the base of the lamp.
7. The ball/socket should now be disassembled enough to work on.
8. See the first pic, you should now have this (probably in two pieces though!)
9. Put the pieces together and in a vise (See Pic 2) and clamp them together
10. Set you vise grips to put a fair amount of pressure on the socket. I only crimped the last 1/8" or so on the part so as not to damage it any more than necessary as the vise grips will leave little teeth marks on the part. I even tried to crimp it with a rag between the part and the vise grips, but the little teeth marks still came through. See pic 3.
11. Turn the socket 90 deg. and crimp again. The socket should be slightly squarish now, but it should hold the ball in place even if tried to pull back apart with moderate pressure. I also shot a little grease in the socket to keep the ball lubed up. This should complete the fix! Clean the fixture, reassemble and enjoy! (pic 4)
12. If this is still not clear, I'd be happy to help out further --dave
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:11 PM   #13
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Ditto

...on what Dave said.

on step 4 though, I found it easier to remove the reflector assembly and wire by first removing the socket part from the main lamp body and then puling the wires thru.

Step 10 and 11 are important. After we've used the trailer a couple times, I've found that two of mine have popped loose again as I didn't crimp them enough.

If you back up to post # 6 you can compare our lights. Streamin 65 and I have the exact same fixture, his appears to be shiny and silver (chrome?) while mine were originally painted.

I recommend using either LED replacement bulbs in them, or 1141s. The 1156's fit, but get very hot if you leave them on for awhile.

1156 = 2.1 amps / 25 watts
1141 = 1.44 amps / 17.3 watts
LED's = about 1.5 watts?? but very pricey (cool colors available though)
Also Wal-Mart has some in their meager RV section that look just like the 1156, but are available in 9, 12 or 18 watts
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Old 06-26-2006, 09:03 PM   #14
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I had to replace all six ball joints on the wall sconces in my '67 Safari. Here in Virginia I was able to find an almost exact replacement for the entrire post and ball joint unit. It fit right down to the square fitting that enters the aluminum shade. Most of the work was in removing the cheap brass plating that the part came in which when done exposed the all aluminum bar with swivel joint. To do this I used a mild acid that is used in creating patina for lead in stained glass work. A strong paint stripper and 0000 steel wool may work also.

If you want a part number and the name of the business where I found it I'd be happy to list it here. I'll have to call the retailer for the part number. You may find the same part in your local lighting supplier.
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