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Old 06-26-2006, 08:16 PM   #15
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BIGED52's Avatar
1967 22' Safari
MILAN , Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,816
Lighting Swivel Joints

Originally Posted by Grtbggdgt
I had to replace all six ball joints on the wall sconces in my '67 Safari. Here in Virginia I was able to find an almost exact replacement for the entrire post and ball joint unit. It fit right down to the square fitting that enters the aluminum shade. Most of the work was in removing the cheap brass plating that the part came in which when done exposed the all aluminum bar with swivel joint. To do this I used a mild acid that is used in creating patina for lead in stained glass work. A strong paint stripper and 0000 steel wool may work also.

If you want a part number and the name of the business where I found it I'd be happy to list it here. I'll have to call the retailer for the part number. You may find the same part in your local lighting supplier.
Grtbggdgt, I would like any part number and business name you can come up with. I am trying to locate the swivels locally and any part number / manufaturer would be a great help! Thanks... Ed

1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:51 PM   #16
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
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Part numbers and sources

Me too, Me too. Could you post the info here for access ?

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Old 11-28-2008, 08:57 AM   #17
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 52
Alternate Repair Method

As a fairly new owner to a 1967 Trade Wind, I have been stockpiling parts for a renovation. Our trailer had some square 12 volt lights on the walls in place of the sconces. I was able to find a couple of fixtures on Ebay, but they had the typical "droop." After studying Streamin 65's method of repair, I tried to figure out a method which would not leave the crimp marks from the pliers on the socket section of the stem. A friend at the local garage suggested the following method:

1. Pull the ball and socket together with a bolt and nut. Note that I left the nut from the stem and the brass fittings on the ends to protect the stem and its threads.

2. We made a sleeve from a small piece of pipe and ground a taper on the inside. The stem, with bolt, was placed vertically on a hard surface and the sleeve was placed over the socket and tapped with a hammer.

3. Remove the nut and bolt and reassemble.

4. Note that I removed the toothed washer from the nut end due to the internal size of the sleeve. The washer is just a bit too big.

You will see in the pictures that the paint on the stem didn't handle the process very well. I ended up wire wheeling off the paint, which was peeling before I began anyway. My plan is to polish the stems or paint them.

I've kept the bolt and the sleeve in case anyone wants to borrow them in the future. While bolts are easy enough to find, I couldn't find anything in 3/16" with a hex head, so I ground the shoulder off a carriage bolt. Send me an email if you want to borrow the "repair kit" rather than having to make your own.

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12 volt

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