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Old 07-28-2005, 09:59 AM   #15
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1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle , Washington
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Well, I'm not sure...

I don't know why it was tripping to be honest. I'll have to test the jack some more... basically it tripped right after I used the jack to lift the van/trailer combo to release the weight distribution bars on the hitch. When I went to use the switch to lower the jack, I had nothing.

I'm not sure why it tripped. I have in the past noted a spark from the feed line when I moved the wires, but I thought I got rid of that when I spliced in some new wiring to the jack..... there was a short in the piece I got rid of, and I haven't noted that problem since (1 yr ago leaving Beverly Beach).
Marc
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Old 07-28-2005, 01:19 PM   #16
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1985 25' Sovereign
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Rivet My best guess ...

If your lifting both, the breaker may be weak (?) and tripps out under the load ... and it hasen't re-set itself by the time you are attempting to lower the unit.

If you wait a while, will it then allow you to lower the unit?

At least we apparently have isolated the problem.

Further, when you clean the coating off the breaker, can you read any data on it's case?

You may also have a resetting breaker on your tow vehicle fuse block. Check your owners manual for the TV. I believe my Excursion has a 30 amp.
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Old 08-01-2005, 08:41 AM   #17
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Longmont , Colorado
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my bad

hi- well I've caused my self a headache- the kind where you don't sleep well, and when you do, you dream about the problem. Last evening I used a peice of wire to jump between the battery-charge socket and the running light socket of my umbilical, to experiment with turning on the running lights with no tow vehicle. It worked great, until, in my stubborn stupidity, I tried to also find out if my back-up lights worked. Yes, I ended up shorting out the entire trailer by going from battery-charge to ground. I beleive I heard an audible click from that end of the trailer, near the plug-in for the umbilical. I found a blown 50-amp fuse, I beleive on the negative side next to the univolt (hard to get at), replaced it with one I found in the trailer, but still no lights inside. Before doing any more damage, I came in the house. What have I done, and what's to be done? I'll go out this morning and start testing from the battery outward, testing all fuses as I go- but if that doesn't help, how do I know if it's that circuit-breaker thing before I start digging into the belly-pan? thanks!- tim
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Old 08-01-2005, 08:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
hi- well I've caused my self a headache- the kind where you don't sleep well, and when you do, you dream about the problem. Last evening I used a peice of wire to jump between the battery-charge socket and the running light socket of my umbilical, to experiment with turning on the running lights with no tow vehicle. It worked great, until, in my stubborn stupidity, I tried to also find out if my back-up lights worked. Yes, I ended up shorting out the entire trailer by going from battery-charge to ground. I beleive I heard an audible click from that end of the trailer, near the plug-in for the umbilical. I found a blown 50-amp fuse, I beleive on the negative side next to the univolt (hard to get at), replaced it with one I found in the trailer, but still no lights inside. Before doing any more damage, I came in the house. What have I done, and what's to be done? I'll go out this morning and start testing from the battery outward, testing all fuses as I go- but if that doesn't help, how do I know if it's that circuit-breaker thing before I start digging into the belly-pan? thanks!- tim
Tim, there are TWO 50 amp fuses, one for the + and one for ground. You have probably blown the ground fuse also.
It is located (or should be) on the wall near the Univolt.
Good luck.
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:57 AM   #19
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fixed!!

hi- after only an hour of testing continuity from the battery on down the line, found the problem- apparently a greenish semi-corroded end of the black negative cable going from ther negative fuse block (which had blown) over to the univolt- after cleaning (and praying) it seems to work just fine now. Why it worked before the short-out, and not after, I have no clue. Apparently the circuit breaker thing that's rumored to live up front, above the belly pan, does not need fixing. A corroded cable end! I dreamt all night of ruined univolts, melted wiring all through the coach, exploded batteries, selling her for $50 on ebay, etc... Now that the electric is functioning properly, I'll try to refrain from experimenting and jury-rigging further- it's too scary when it goes dead and you don't know why. I'm a carpenter and should really stick to that, but I'm the sort of person that wants to get into everything, a DIY nightmare. Today I think I'll try to re-thread a stripped window-latch bolt, maybe re-caulk the door frame- I promise I won't monkey with any wires!--tim
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