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Old 08-07-2015, 09:35 PM   #1
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100% shore power?

Ok I will try to keep this short. I have a 69 that I am planning on permanently setting on our lot in NC. We are going to live in it while we build our house then use it as a guest house/overflow. Is there any reason I can not just wire it all up for 110v instead of 110-12-12? It is a total gutted frame off remodel. New everything. Thanks in advance
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:39 PM   #2
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I see no reason not to as long as you don't plan on restoring it to a travel trailer.
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:11 PM   #3
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Your converter will provide all of the DC power that your trailer needs......provided that it's a modern switch mode electronic unit. No batteries needed with a newer converter units.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:07 PM   #4
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Any reason I need the converter if I have no intention of taking on the road again. I was planning on wiring it just like a house with all 110v ac. Thinking about it now I need to look into the vent power and power options on new air-conditioning units.
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Old 08-08-2015, 01:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrkb8101 View Post
Any reason I need the converter if I have no intention of taking on the road again. I was planning on wiring it just like a house with all 110v ac. Thinking about it now I need to look into the vent power and power options on new air-conditioning units.
Sure....no problems! That is until you decide to try to sell it and find out just how difficult it will be unless you find a buyer who wants it for the exact same use that you did.
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:41 AM   #6
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It's already gutted…if I read correctly

It's yours….You know what you will be using for….It's your call…..BUT

Besides resale value, there are a few other reasons that a 12 volt system could be handy.

If there was a power outage, you could use your trailer as a survival pod.

If your heating system failed, you could use your trailer as a survival pod

If your plumbing failed, you could still take a shower.

OR…If any of the above systems in your house were being repaired.

That being said..I can't think of a technical reason for needing a 12 volt system.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:37 AM   #7
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I understand the initial thought that things would be much simpler during a rebuild to simply eliminate most things RV.

But, I also have come to realize justifying the simple at the start can limit options in the future.

My opinion is that rebuilding with a standard 12 volt system is no more work than without, would allow one to use standard RV hardware, and retain the intended use of the trailer should one decide to go camping. All while not limiting the use of the trailer as a spare bedroom.


Good luck with what ever you choose.


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Old 08-08-2015, 08:48 AM   #8
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I agree with JD

Also….It's much easier to install for utilities now.

BUT….There is a huge cost difference. Not just the cost of chargers, batteries, and light fixtures. RV appliances cost way more than regular appliances.

AND….I have always thought that a shed, made a WAY better stationary out building, a cheaper outbuilding, a easier to work on out building, and last but not least, a more comfortable out building.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:22 PM   #9
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12V power?

hi,

I recently bought a 2012 19' Bambi Interstate and have no 12V in the trailer unless I am hooked up to shore power. I "think" the batteries are good and have checked the fuses and breakers and all are fine. Any suggestions anyone can recommend to rectify?

THANKS!
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:50 PM   #10
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:25 PM   #11
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ID:	245209 Female end of 30 Amp shore power plug-in chord looked like this after this weekend's camping. Any thoughts on what may have caused the plug to melt this way? Thanks.


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Old 08-10-2015, 10:44 PM   #12
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Poor connection causing arcing.


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Old 08-10-2015, 10:50 PM   #13
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Saw a post just like this on another thread. You would likely get a better response if you started a new thread instead of adding onto a thread about another subject.

That said your issue could be caused by loose connections, corrosion, or wear on either or both of the female end or male receptacle on the trailer. Shouldn't be over-current as a trailer breaker would have tripped. At this point you will need to replace the female end and probably the male receptacle as well, but can't say for sure without seeing it. When you take them apart look for loose connections where the wiring terminates onto the connector pins/sockets.

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Old 08-10-2015, 11:14 PM   #14
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Back to the OP ...
If it's gutted and you have no intentions to drag it around, your plan is likely the cheapest.
RV ACs work on 110VAC
A vent fan replacement can be found in 110VAC if you're willing to spend the time looking and possibly modifying slightly.
Everything else simple especially if all electric and no gas.
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