Wahoo! I'm Now A Proud Owner!

[SilverGT63]

I Think? Well of but of coarse! 1963 Airstream GlobeTrotter. I don't even know where to start? Electrical, Floor? Looks like I'm not alone, and most of you have done this before. Well I will have lots of questions. Thanks for letting me join the party. Look forward to seeing you all on the road!

Richard

[maxandgeorgia]

First of all, congratulations! Hope we meet you on the open road one of these days. As you'll discover, this forum has many threads (found through the search instrument on the menu bar at the top of the page) that will give you information you'll need as you start to make your AS your own. Forum members are unbelievably helpful as well. I'd suggest you begin by using the Search and reading as much as you can on the topics you are wondering about. With some basic info, you'll then know questions to ask of forum members. A '63 GT: really special! ~G

[Aage]

SilverGT63,

Howdy and welcome to airforums.com! Think of a question, this is the place most likely to have your answer.

Where to start is easy: take lots of photos and post them on here! We want to see your new beauty, and later you will want to have good evidence of where you came from when your improvements, repairs, and decorating have made the improvements you want.

Just ask if you have any difficulties, OK?

[moosetags]

Welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us. Congratulations on your new Baby. We need to see lots of pictures.

[overlander64]

Greetings Richard!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Airstreaming!

Originally Posted by SilverGT63

I Think? Well of but of coarse! 1963 Airstream GlobeTrotter. I don't even know where to start? Electrical, Floor? Looks like I'm not alone, and most of you have done this before. Well I will have lots of questions. Thanks for letting me join the party. Look forward to seeing you all on the road!

Richard

There isn't a one-size fits all situations answer to your question. Much of the answer depends upon the current condition of your coach and when you would first like to be able to camp in your new acquisition. Since most of us are anxious to begin experiencing the Airstreaming way of life, my suggestion would be to address all issues relating to towing and camping safety first, such as:

• Running gear, exterior issues:
  • Inspect, service, repair, or replace the following as indicated:
    • Tires -- if the tires are more than three to five years old, new tires are indicated; and the tires should be of either ST or LT designation with adequate weight rating for your coach (usually Load Range C for your coach).
    • Wheels -- many of our Vintage coaches came equipped with "split-rim" wheels which are no longer considered safe for travel and can create many headaches if tire service is required while on the road. Most tire dealers as well as trailer service centers and most farm stores either carry or can order new solid steel wheels to fit our Airstreams.
    • Brakes -- on a coach that has seen any amount of neglect, it is often more economical to purchase new, fully-loaded backing plates and have your existing drums resurfaced and shoes matched to the drums at the same time -- this insures that all wear parts are replaced and of "compatible" design.
    • Bearings -- should be inspected, repacked and new seals installed if replacement isn't indicated.
    • Axle Spindles -- there have been some problems with smaller, single axle Vintage units with spindle damage and failure -- be sure to examine spindles for evidence of color change due to excessive heating or evidence of deep gouging or other unusual wear.
    • Axle -- if the axle is not of the leaf spring variety, examine its condition utilizing the methods suggested in several threads here on the Forums or on the Inland RV website. If the axle is of the leaf spring variety, examine the shackles/hangers as well as bushings -- replacing any warn components (most larger cities have suspension shops that can rebuild your leaf springs or manufacture custom replacements).
    • Frame -- examine carefully for evidence of extensive rust damage. Outriggers often provide tell-tale evidence when they fail by making obvious "dimples" in the banana wraps and in some cases create holes in the banana skin. All exposed areas of the frame should be examined and if the rust has seriously erroded the metal, further examination is indicated that may includ lowering portions of the bellypan to expose the frame for inspection.
    • Coupler -- examine for signs of excessive rust or bending/denting. It is possible to purchase rebuild kits for the Marvel coupler that will renew the internal parts of a coupler that is otherwise in good condition. If the coupler is damaged, a competent trailer service center can weld a new coupler onto the A-frame for a nominal charge.
    • Coupler ball -- the two-inch balls come with a variety of weight ratings with two shank sizes -- you will want to shop carefully to get one with the correct shank size for your hitch with at least a 6,000 pound rating (many sold in discount centers are only rated for 3,000 or 4,000 pounds).
    • Towing Lights -- verify that all tail, stop, turn signal, and clearance lights as well as electric brakes are fully functional. Often, our Vintage coaches have survived multiple "revisions" to the wiring on the umbilical cord. Replacement seven-conductor sheathed cable is available by the foot from most trailer repair centers and provides what is probably the quickest way to insure that the umbilical cord is sound. The junction box for your umbilical cord is in the bellypan on the front street-side corner and it is possible to use the original umbilical cord to pull the new cable through the tongue and into the junction box. With the umbilical cord squared away, it is then possible to address the individual light fixtures; repairing shorts, cleaning grounds, replacing bad bulbs, etc. -- or it would also be possible to upgrade to new fixtures and some even include brighter LED lighting.
• LP Gas System
  • Inspect, service, repair, or replace the following as indicated:
    • Tanks -- if the tanks are steel and do not have the required OPD valves, you may find it less costly to purchase new replacements that have the required OPD valves and will have the maximum certification life. If your tanks are aluminum, they are well worth the cost of new OPD valves and recertification.
    • Supply Hoses -- the hoses that run from the tanks to the regulator are subject to degradation from the inside as well as from the outside so if their age is unknown, new hoses are a wise safety investment. When considering new hoses, the modern hoses with the large fittings for the OPD valves provide for easier changing of cylinders and the cost difference is quite modest.
    • Regulator -- the LP gas regulator can and will wear out or fail due to age. A qualified LP gas service center may offer rebuilding services; but the usual advice seems to be to replace with a new automatic switch-over regulator. A qualified LP gas technician can inspect and test your regulator to verify its condition if you are unsure whether you wish to replace.
    • Appliances -- this is where a professional's assistance can be very valuable. Each of your coach's gas appliances should be inspected for safety -- this would include the range/oven, furnace, refrigerator, water heater, and gas light if so equipped.

With safety issues identified and resolved, you can then begin enjoying your coach while you identify the most important cosmetic issues to be addressed -- or the system issues that need the most immediate attention. I followed this process with my Overlander and camped in it for nearly eight seasons before I took it out of service for six months to have the interior and exterior refurbished. I was fortunate to need only minor rear separation repairs and some minor floor repairs in the rear of the coach.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin

[lisamomof2]

Very useful post Kevin! I'm a newbie as well and I have a '67 Globetrotter that has been in CA for most of it's life. It's been driven across country as part of a national promotional tour (before I bought her). So, I'm guessing that the running gear/safety issues were addressed, but not sure.

So, where do I go to get these things checked out? and, what should I expect in terms of cost for a full evaluation?

thanks for any info!

[JFScheck]

Congrats - let's the travels commence -

[overlander64]

Greetings lisamomof2!

Originally Posted by lisamomof2

So, where do I go to get these things checked out? and, what should I expect in terms of cost for a full evaluation?

thanks for any info!

Most of the safety and system checks can be handled by any competent RV service center. Brakes are usually either Kelsey Hayes or Dexter which are common throughout the industry. Appliances are all brands utilized throughout the industry. Unless there are concerns about body/frame repairs Airstream specific knowledge isn't necessary for a thorough systems check-up. My suggestion would be to ask around your area to get the names of two or three RV service centers in your area -- then visit each one and talk to the service manager about what you want checked on your Airstream and ask for an estimate of cost.

So far as cost is concerned, region of the country will have some impact as well as location rural or urban. For a thorough systems check-up, I would expect a labor charge of around four hours - - in my area a thorough systems check-up generally runs around $300 to $400.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin