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Old 10-12-2017, 08:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by AtomicNo13 View Post
I guess my point was this...
If we accept junk, they will produce it. If they know we won't stand for anything other than delivered perfection, they will deliver that!
I accept that point, and agree with it. It's just that you hid that point behind the opening line of:
Quote:
In my opinion, all this conversation is absurd...
Which opening line doesn't exactly support the point. The point you seemed to make was, "Don't bother me with an inspection of my new trailer. Just call me when it's done, and I'll come get it." Which is a point I don't agree with.

Airstream is responsible for performing QC, Quality Control. The goal of any QC program should be zero defects, but that goal is unattainable in the real world, especially at a company that closes down its assembly lines for the weekend. "Finished on a Monday" is a real stigma for one out of every five Airstream trailers.

But even though Airstream presumably does QC, the buyer has an obligation to do his or her own QA, Quality Assurance. Hence the joint inspection before delivery, to develop a punch-list of items that slipped past QC and need to be fixed before delivery. QA is the buyer's responsibility for virtually any contracted product, not just for Airstreams.

And for those (hopefully but not necessarily rare) occasions when a defect manages to slip past both QC and QA, that's what warranties are for.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:39 PM   #16
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Um... huh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicNo13 View Post
I guess my point was this...
If we accept junk, they will produce it. If they know we won't stand for anything other than delivered perfection, they will deliver that!
It appears that you missed the point I was making.
Though what you said above, was exactly my point.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:55 PM   #17
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Make sure to have them get you a blanket and look under the unit, also a ladder to look on roof. Check rv it’s, caulking, fit, etc. Also, check how door closes and seals, be very thorough on the door check and seal.

In my 2017 23D, it has been pretty solid. We sent 4 hours going over it, and it was close to perfect. Once we started using it, noticed a few cosmetic issues that were easily resolved. However, the door was way out of alignment, and you could only notice a gap in top by closely looking and if sun was shinning right angle. This was a tough fix and took over three weeks in the dealer, back and forth on phone with JC.

Also, don’t let them tell you its winterized, hook it to water and check that well, then have them re-winterize.

Take your time, look in every door and latch, lay down, check all angles and views. Have them fix anything you are not happy with. Who’re you leave...

Also, check alignment on awning locks and closures, make sure they open and close it, and make sure it all works flawlessly.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:58 PM   #18
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If it were me who was shelling out whatever insane amount to realize a dream, I'd certainly go in armed with all the ammo I could muster. If you've read these forums long enough, you've undoubtedly read many tales of extremely shoddy new Airstreams coming off the line.
Sure, they "should" be perfect, but Wally is long gone and perhaps that's why it seems that renovation is the new innovation when it comes to Airstreams.
Personally, I'd rather be "that guy" at the dealer who insists that all is right before I sign and drive off, then the guy who has to tow my coach back to wade in the mire of warranty work while I could be out enjoying life in my aluminum tube.
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:00 PM   #19
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Depending on the temperature when you do your walk-through, you may find that the dealer wants to demonstrate the A/C but not the furnace, or the furnace but not the A/C. If it's cold out, run the furnace long enough to warm it up inside, then run the A/C long enough to cool it back down. Vice versa if it's hot when you do the walk-through.
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Old 10-12-2017, 11:24 PM   #20
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Bring an electric circuit tester that will also test the GFI circuits (Lowe’s or Home Depot). Make sure every outlet is operational. GFI is mandatory near both sinks and the outlet curb side above the wheel well. If there is an inverter, verify the blue taged outlets actually work off of the battery system.

Usually the outside access storage areas have a poorly placed light. Make sure it is operational in each compartment. Hanging clothes closets may have a light as well. If there is a slide dimmer for a large area, make sure it works. Make sure every light bulb you can see works.

Pull the safety wire on the safety brake breakaway switch and listen to hear if the brakes operate.

Bring a high quality tire gage to ensure correct pressure in the road tires as well as the spare. If the trailer was trucked rather than towed to the dealership, then have a torque wrench with you to verify the wheel torques at 25, 50 and 100 miles. That three point check should be done every time a wheel comes on and off the trailer. Most safety conscious folks check both tire pressures and wheel torque before every trip.

Make sure the television(s) and DVD player operate along with the radio system. The sound system has been a major frustration source for most customers and the sound system manuals are written where English is not the major language. Make sure sound comes out of both front and rear speakers. Try and get a local TV station as well as local radio station. Ask where the connections are to add a future XM/Sirius radio interface if desired.

Find out if there is an adjustable thermostat for the refrigerator and where it is located.

Make sure all three gas burners light as wells the oven. Boil some water in the microwave, if installed.

Test that the fridge runs on both propane and electricity as well as the water heater. Check that the range hood fan and light work. Have them show you the clamps that keep the range hood exhaust fan flap closed when going down the road. Test the grill propane gas valve at the front of the trailer.

Make sure all the external lights operate both above the door or step, above the dump valves and on the curb side of the coach (if installed).

Make sure the one or two ceiling fans have multiple speeds and perhaps reverse flow. Make sure the bathroom exhaust fan works.

Find out where the water pump and filter are located. They are usually hidden. Find out the access point to access the water heater bypass valves for winterization.

Have a demo of getting the spare tire out of it's storage location as it not easy processes.

Make sure the key locks to all external latches work and that the doors close tightly.

Make sure the sky light blinds work as well as the vista view blinds. Have them open and close each window while you watch. Make sure both latches actually pull the window in against the gasket. The glass may stick to the gasket, so carry an expired credit card to use as a slide to slide between the glass and rubber gasket to free up the window.

Have a good understanding of the location of the emergency escape window location and consider how you would get through the opening and handle the fall to the ground.

Get an extra set or two of the two main door keys and carry them on a caribeaner attached to your pants belt loop every time you exit the trailer. The main doors have been known to self-lock if they inadvertently close from a gust of wind.... Verify the main door locks work from the inside and in fact lock the door from inside and have someone try to open the door.

Check all modes of the thermostat(s). With the furnace running, check that hot air comes out of each hot air duct vent. Then do that for the ceiling air conditioning. Find out where the cold air filters are located in the ceiling and how to access them for cleaning.

When the water heater is on, make sure the hot water comes out of each sink faucet with the proper handle position and test the shower (use a bucket for the shower water) as well.

Make sure water comes into the toilet bowl when the lever is depressed. Make sure the residual water above the closed toilet valve stays constant for a few minutes.

Fill each sink with water with the stopper closed and then open the stopper to ensure good drainage. Listen to where the water goes. Pour the shower test water down the shower drain to be sure it is working properly as well.

Test that each circuit breaker actually works by putting the tester into sockets to be sure power goes off when the breaker is opened. Do this for the other appliances as well.

Ask for a ladder to see the roof. Look at the skylight bases and fan bases and try to see if there are any cracks in the plastic flange from over tightening the screws (major source of leaks that may show up just after the warranty expires).

Make sure every cabinet catch works as well any support pistons for roof lockers.

Check that the cold water filter is installed under the kitchen sink and have them point it out to you and how to access it to replace it.

Look underneath the trailer to be sure the fasteners are in place for the black sewer hose storage tube, the supports for the copper gas line are in place and there are no tears or damage to the belly of the trailer. Notice the openings from the bottom of the trailer. Brass wool (think of steel wool as to appearance) can be used to plug the holes (since it won't rust) to stop critters from getting into the bottom of the trailer. Make sure all the fold up step fasteners are tight. Make sure the lid in the rear bumper storage for the sewer hose and tools and be opened and closed.

Make sure the smoke detector works along with the propane gas detector. Check if there is a CO2 detector as well.

Have them show how to take the cover off of the propane tanks and gain access to the valves. Get an explanation and demo of the tank sector valve (it may be automatic with red/green displays showing status).

Check that the battery connections feel tight.

If there is a dinette, demo putting the dining table down to make a bed. Make sure all the cushions are there to make the bed.

From our experience with three new Airstreams, I suggest a brass 2" x 4" plate be installed below the dinette leg so it does not wear a hole in the linoleum.

If a factory solar system is installed verify it’s operation as well.

After connecting to the tow vehicle, make sure all the lights work. Hitting the flasher button will usually test both brake and turn signal bulbs in the tail lights. Make sure all the clearance lights come on with the tow vehicle headlights.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:45 AM   #21
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Atomic I for one understood your point clearly, and share the sentiment the more I think about it.

Appreciate the comments everybody, will re-read em all to be in the right frame of mind when I go in.!
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:53 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
Bring an electric circuit tester that will also test the GFI circuits (Lowe’s or Home Depot). Make sure every outlet is operational. GFI is mandatory near both sinks and the outlet curb side above the wheel well. If there is an inverter, verify the blue taged outlets actually work off of the battery system.

Usually the outside access storage areas have a poorly placed light. Make sure it is operational in each compartment. Hanging clothes closets may have a light as well. If there is a slide dimmer for a large area, make sure it works. Make sure every light bulb you can see works.

Pull the safety wire on the safety brake breakaway switch and listen to hear if the brakes operate.

Bring a high quality tire gage to ensure correct pressure in the road tires as well as the spare. If the trailer was trucked rather than towed to the dealership, then have a torque wrench with you to verify the wheel torques at 25, 50 and 100 miles. That three point check should be done every time a wheel comes on and off the trailer. Most safety conscious folks check both tire pressures and wheel torque before every trip.

Make sure the television(s) and DVD player operate along with the radio system. The sound system has been a major frustration source for most customers and the sound system manuals are written where English is not the major language. Make sure sound comes out of both front and rear speakers. Try and get a local TV station as well as local radio station. Ask where the connections are to add a future XM/Sirius radio interface if desired.

Find out if there is an adjustable thermostat for the refrigerator and where it is located.

Make sure all three gas burners light as wells the oven. Boil some water in the microwave, if installed.

Test that the fridge runs on both propane and electricity as well as the water heater. Check that the range hood fan and light work. Have them show you the clamps that keep the range hood exhaust fan flap closed when going down the road. Test the grill propane gas valve at the front of the trailer.

Make sure all the external lights operate both above the door or step, above the dump valves and on the curb side of the coach (if installed).

Make sure the one or two ceiling fans have multiple speeds and perhaps reverse flow. Make sure the bathroom exhaust fan works.

Find out where the water pump and filter are located. They are usually hidden. Find out the access point to access the water heater bypass valves for winterization.

Have a demo of getting the spare tire out of it's storage location as it not easy processes.

Make sure the key locks to all external latches work and that the doors close tightly.

Make sure the sky light blinds work as well as the vista view blinds. Have them open and close each window while you watch. Make sure both latches actually pull the window in against the gasket. The glass may stick to the gasket, so carry an expired credit card to use as a slide to slide between the glass and rubber gasket to free up the window.

Have a good understanding of the location of the emergency escape window location and consider how you would get through the opening and handle the fall to the ground.

Get an extra set or two of the two main door keys and carry them on a caribeaner attached to your pants belt loop every time you exit the trailer. The main doors have been known to self-lock if they inadvertently close from a gust of wind.... Verify the main door locks work from the inside and in fact lock the door from inside and have someone try to open the door.

Check all modes of the thermostat(s). With the furnace running, check that hot air comes out of each hot air duct vent. Then do that for the ceiling air conditioning. Find out where the cold air filters are located in the ceiling and how to access them for cleaning.

When the water heater is on, make sure the hot water comes out of each sink faucet with the proper handle position and test the shower (use a bucket for the shower water) as well.

Make sure water comes into the toilet bowl when the lever is depressed. Make sure the residual water above the closed toilet valve stays constant for a few minutes.

Fill each sink with water with the stopper closed and then open the stopper to ensure good drainage. Listen to where the water goes. Pour the shower test water down the shower drain to be sure it is working properly as well.

Test that each circuit breaker actually works by putting the tester into sockets to be sure power goes off when the breaker is opened. Do this for the other appliances as well.

Ask for a ladder to see the roof. Look at the skylight bases and fan bases and try to see if there are any cracks in the plastic flange from over tightening the screws (major source of leaks that may show up just after the warranty expires).

Make sure every cabinet catch works as well any support pistons for roof lockers.

Check that the cold water filter is installed under the kitchen sink and have them point it out to you and how to access it to replace it.

Look underneath the trailer to be sure the fasteners are in place for the black sewer hose storage tube, the supports for the copper gas line are in place and there are no tears or damage to the belly of the trailer. Notice the openings from the bottom of the trailer. Brass wool (think of steel wool as to appearance) can be used to plug the holes (since it won't rust) to stop critters from getting into the bottom of the trailer. Make sure all the fold up step fasteners are tight. Make sure the lid in the rear bumper storage for the sewer hose and tools and be opened and closed.

Make sure the smoke detector works along with the propane gas detector. Check if there is a CO2 detector as well.

Have them show how to take the cover off of the propane tanks and gain access to the valves. Get an explanation and demo of the tank sector valve (it may be automatic with red/green displays showing status).

Check that the battery connections feel tight.

If there is a dinette, demo putting the dining table down to make a bed. Make sure all the cushions are there to make the bed.

From our experience with three new Airstreams, I suggest a brass 2" x 4" plate be installed below the dinette leg so it does not wear a hole in the linoleum.

If a factory solar system is installed verify it’s operation as well.

After connecting to the tow vehicle, make sure all the lights work. Hitting the flasher button will usually test both brake and turn signal bulbs in the tail lights. Make sure all the clearance lights come on with the tow vehicle headlights.

Hope this helps.
Wow I need to hire you LOL , will be referring to these threads as I go through the walkthrough
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:10 AM   #23
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Congratulations!

See Switz's post and make a checklist.

Take 2-3 people with you. More eyes are better. If possible, assign tasks. Responsible teens are good too.

Even if you miss something, there is a warranty and just reiterate to them that you do not want problems that you want a good memory of getting the trailer, of them, the dealer and the experience as a whole - no haunts. They should understand.

I just purchased another tow vehicle after my event with a 2 year old truck (too soon) and shared over and over my reason for trading and my concern for a good experience. They were very good to me at the dealer- more than average.

I did not buy new but the first time I went on the roof with my rafter boards as support I found two rivets missing. You never know, and, the original owner probably never knew either. They "may" have popped off later but he did not use it much so I doubt it.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:11 AM   #24
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Hi

Well, as a absolute minimum I would demand that every weld in the frame be x-rayed from three directions and those films be supplied with the trailer at delivery .... (all at no charge of course ...)

If you want to do a *full* inspection of every aspect of the trailer, plan on spending at least a month doing it. Also accept that any "inspection" process is (at best) 80% effective at catching issues. If you go to a three pass process you can get it into the 90% range. You will need to have three different inspectors. If you don't, the same set of eyes will miss the same things.

Bob
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:17 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Well, as a absolute minimum I would demand that every weld in the frame be x-rayed from three directions and those films be supplied with the trailer at delivery .... (all at no charge of course ...)

If you want to do a *full* inspection of every aspect of the trailer, plan on spending at least a month doing it.
There's no need to be facetious. It doesn't really help the OP to be told to take longer inspecting the trailer than it took to build it in the first place.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:49 AM   #26
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I never thought to X-ray.... Thanks!
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:55 AM   #27
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I never thought to X-ray.... Thanks!
Use sonar, it's easier
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:16 PM   #28
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Thanks rodsterinfl, I was thinking the same thing...
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