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04-29-2012, 01:07 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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Newbie starting '64 Overlander restoration...
Recently moved my father's 1964 Overlander to my back patio for some minor, cough cough, repair. As of now I have cleaned out all the hunting gear, parts that were stored in it, and numerous mice houses. The old tile was still there and had been carpeted over. As I removed the carpet I realized there was some floor damage around the door. After reading numerous threads on this site, I started snooping around more and found a little more floor problems around the edges. I have removed the Gaucho sleeper in the front and removed the majority of the tile. I cut out some pieces of flooring and realized I probably need to just go ahead and gut it and replace the floor along with checking the frame for damage. I will take any ideas and encouragement for this endeavour. Thanks ahead of time.
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04-29-2012, 01:29 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,718
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Newbie starting '64 Overlander restoration...
Greetings PaducahCat!
Welcome to the Forums and the world of 1964 Overlander ownership!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaducahCat
Recently moved my father's 1964 Overlander to my back patio for some minor, cough cough, repair. As of now I have cleaned out all the hunting gear, parts that were stored in it, and numerous mice houses. The old tile was still there and had been carpeted over. As I removed the carpet I realized there was some floor damage around the door. After reading numerous threads on this site, I started snooping around more and found a little more floor problems around the edges. I have removed the Gaucho sleeper in the front and removed the majority of the tile. I cut out some pieces of flooring and realized I probably need to just go ahead and gut it and replace the floor along with checking the frame for damage. I will take any ideas and encouragement for this endeavour. Thanks ahead of time.
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You may be shocked by the number of 1964 Overlander owners here on the Forums. Overlanders must have experienced a banner year in 1964 as there seem to be so many that have survived . . . . 1964 Airstreams of all models seem to have survived in unusually large numbers compared to the number of mentions of similar models from 1963 and 1965.
Before rushing into a total floor replacement, you might consider whether the damage is that severe. Penetrating wood consoldants (used in old house restoration) can be used successfully if the rotted area isn't huge. On my 1964, the only floor replacement that has been done was in the rear bath area when rear end separation was repaired about ten years ago, and a little later, a patch of about 2' x 2' was made near the entry door.
I am sure that, what ever your decision is, your father's Overlander will provide you with many years of enjoyment!
Kevin
P.S.: I know that my Overlander has provided me with many miles of enjoyment . . . from my first camping trip as a child in 1964 through my purchase of the coach in 1995 and my travel today.
P.S.S.: I just noticed your profile . . . I am only a little more than 50 miles West of your home in Paducah.
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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04-30-2012, 09:33 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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04-30-2012, 09:50 AM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan
, Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
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Great condition! I agree with the above post if the frame is in decent shape. If the frame has bad penetrating rust then it might be worth it to replace the floor so you can work on the frame as well. If you have a solid frame and only small parts of the floor are bad then it certainly would be easier to just replace those parts. Just remember that anything can be fixed...with enough time.
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04-30-2012, 09:57 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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04-30-2012, 10:00 AM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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04-30-2012, 10:11 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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04-30-2012, 12:18 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Welcome to the forums...that Overlander seems to be in pretty darn good shape. Keep us posted on your efforts, I'm working on year #2 of a frame off rebuild on my '63 Overlander.
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04-30-2012, 01:42 PM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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Hey HiHoAgRV and EricH! There's a part of me that wants to gut it, fix the frame totally and make it like brand new, new wiring, insulation, etc, however i dont know if im that handy. I've pulled alot of the interior out and most the floor doesnt look too bad so I may do some minimal repairs and camp in it this summer and think about it as a major project this winter. All that depends on if the wiring still works. I see some of these restorations pics on here and have visions of grandeur! But I also want to get to the campgrounds asap.
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04-30-2012, 02:19 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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Great looking trailer. I see you have made lots of pics. Make about 3x the number of pics as you think you need of every single thing before you take it apart and out of the trailer. 6 months or a year from now when you are putting something back you will say, glad I had a pic of that. It will save you lots of time and head scratching when you start putting things back.
Another for what its worth, bag all the parts and take time to label each bag with a complete description of where the screws,nobs,hinges came from. Again, it will save you lots of time.
__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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04-30-2012, 04:14 PM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,718
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Newbie starting '64 Overlander restoration...
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaducahCat
Attachment 157177
Attachment 157178
Attachment 157179
Attachment 157180
The first pic is the breaker box, im pretty sure i'll have to pull the cabinets around it to rewire the new cord. Question for Overlander64, I have a new cord that came with it, and i want to put a plug in on the back like u have, where can i get that?
Also, on the last pic, when i moved the fridge there was this hole cut out in the sub floor and then the screen on the belly skin. Is this factory? Can i Close them up?
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Greetings PaducahCat!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaducahCat
Attachment 157177
Attachment 157178
Attachment 157179
Attachment 157180
The first pic is the breaker box, im pretty sure i'll have to pull the cabinets around it to rewire the new cord. Question for Overlander64, I have a new cord that came with it, and i want to put a plug in on the back like u have, where can i get that?
Also, on the last pic, when i moved the fridge there was this hole cut out in the sub floor and then the screen on the belly skin. Is this factory? Can i Close them up?
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The electrical entrance that you see in my photo isn't actually my current arrangement. When I had the new black tank installed in 2009, I also had a Marinco service entrance installed . . . and that it what I would recomment to you . . . it fits in the same opening as the plastic one shown in my current photo. The problem with the port in the photo is that the 30-AMP cord slid in and out of the opening . . . it just randomly piles in the one-stop service compartment, and flops all over anything in the compartment. With the Marinco, the 30-AMP service cable has an end the screws-into the fixture on the coach so that it is carried separate and you can coil the cord and store safely either in the one-stop service compartment, one of the interior cubbies in the coach, or in the tow vehicle. I have used the Marinco for two seasons now and find it superior. Somewhat locally, you can find them at Kampers Supply on IL Route 13 in Carterville, IL -- another possible local source is Tri-State RV on IL 146 in Anna. The Marinco Connectors are also available from Vintage Trailer Supply on the Web.
I can't provide all of the details, but I do know that when both of my new 30-AMP supply cables were installed to the breaker box, the bathroom cabinets did not have to be disturbed. I do know that the Technichian had to go through some contortions to replace the cord, but it is a large job to remove the rear bath cabinetry as the streetside bed will also need to be removed. The upgrade to a Marinco connector will definitely be worth the effort.
What you are seeing are the opening that are necessary to creat the chiminey effect. The hole in the subfloor (the screen must be maintained to keep critters out) is the opening through which cool air is drawn . . . the cool are flows across the refrigerator's coils and then the warm/hot air rises and exits through the refirgerator roof vent. This method was utilized prior to adoption the ventilated panels inserted in the side of the coach . . . personally I like this vintage method as it maintains a smooter appearance to the exterior sidewall.
Good luck with your Overlander . . . and welcome to the '64 Overlander fraternity!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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10-17-2012, 09:23 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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Haven't been on here for awhile. It was a hot summer in Kentucky and I didnt get a whole lot done on the "Project". I did do a little cleaning on the outside skin with 3M rubbing compound and a buffer. It worked pretty good to get the oxidation off. I Have also taken all the cabinets out. They were all water damaged and wood was rotten where they touched the floor. I took the bath out as well. Just going to start from scratch. All the water lines were busted. I know I'm stepping out on a ledge by gutting it but I see no other way to get it like I want it.
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10-17-2012, 09:28 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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Also wanted to say I saved the bath, sink, toilet combo if anybody is interested. Not sure what they are going for but I'd make somebody a good deal on it.
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10-17-2012, 09:52 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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Thanks for posting the pictures, it's great to see another 64. Yours looks pretty intact, and it was interesting to see the fiberglass piece that goes in the closet behind the bathtub, mine doesn't have that and there is a gross hole in the closet into the under tub area.
BTW, my family is from old Shawneetown, not too far from you guys. We drove through there a few years ago.
Good luck with your project!
__________________
Wherever you go, there you are
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10-17-2012, 11:38 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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Your bathroom, before disassemble, and the location of your panel box looks just like my 66 TW. The bath design is kind of weird, but it gives you a whole lot of room in the back end for batteries, converter, inverter and anything else you can't seem to find room for. I replaced my metal battery shelf and installed a wood shelf and two golf cart batteries.
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10-17-2012, 11:42 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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Forgot to tell you that you have a real nice looking Overlander and a couple of really cute kids in front of it. Enjoy, they grow up much to fast.
Dan
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11-29-2012, 08:40 AM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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Well I dove in and removed the shell from the trailer on my '64 Overlander. Removed a ton of rivets but they seemed to get easier as I went. Just like anything, the more you do something the better you get at it. Found the hidden rivets that were tied into the frame but I used a sharpened putty knife and separated the rivets from inside the trailer. I read that on one of the forums and it really helped out, thanks. Here are some pics from yesterdays separation of shell and trailer. When I pulled the trailer out from under the shell I thought "man they havent been apart since 1964!" I'm gonna post some pics real quick then get out there and strap the shell down and start removing the belly skins.
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11-29-2012, 09:02 AM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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Here's some more...
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11-29-2012, 09:46 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Paducah
, Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 44
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One more...
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11-29-2012, 09:57 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Wow! Just found your thread. Looks like its coming along great! Very nice looking trailer. With that starting condition and your impressive speed, you should have a very nice Overlander by next summer. :-)
And if you want it to go faster, looks like you've got some free labor available to help.
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