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Old 02-19-2011, 08:11 PM   #15
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It looks good. I bet it cleans up real nice.
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:18 PM   #16
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Washed it down this morning, it did clean up well. A little oxidation on top, but looks good overall. After I address the frame issues, I was thinking of polishing it up. Only one little dent in the back, a bigger one on top, but not bad at all.
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:14 PM   #17
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Welcome to the forums Baseman! Nice TW! (I'm partial to the 70s) I was born in '70 and I have a 1972 Ambassador. Here is what my frame looked like when I got everything uncovered. Take Colin's advice. He's a VAP Pro. You have found the greatest resource there is for Airstream owners. We're here for you!
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:50 PM   #18
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Today's progress. Got the inside skins off of the rear bath area, also removed the black and gray tanks yesterday. The black tank has one little crack where the dump valve attaches, the gray tank had no cracks, but has dipped down an inch or more across the top. Both tanks were made by Inca plastics, does any one know of they sell directly to the public?
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:27 PM   #19
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Got the rear floor out today. Ordering some more pieces and parts.
The rear of the shell has dropped almost an inch along the sides due to sagging out riggers, looks like it's going to take some thinking to Jack it back up without breaking something. Any ideas?
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:49 PM   #20
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Baseman how far are you going with the floor removal.
I`m assuming that you cut that rear piece in half for removal. Make sure the replacement piece is installed as one piece.
Before you reinstall the floor or fix the frame you need to block and level the frame both front to back and side to side. I did a shell off and blocked the frame six points on each frame rail (12 total) to get it level and straight. If you have the frame sagging or bending or not level when you reinstall the floor you will lock in the sag, bend or unlevelness.
Jacking it up is quite easy. I lifted my entire shell with two small bottle jacks. So block and level the frame, repair the outriggers then jack the shell up to gain clearance for the floor installation. Install the new floor, lower the shell back down on to the blocked frame, floor combo. Reattach the shell to the frame, floor combo and then remove the blocking and you`re good to go. The frame is really flexible and needs the shell to hold it in place.
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Old 03-30-2011, 02:28 PM   #21
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Thank you Chris, good advice as usual!
So far I am planning on replacing the rear most sheet. May replace the next one as well. And one sheet almost in the front. I have the rear half of the interior out right now. Was planning on doing the back, putting it all back and then gutting the front. I am probably going to take the rest of the interior out all together now. As I'm sure you have found everthing is all kind of connected together, can't remove the wheel wells without removing the galley, etc.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:47 AM   #22
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Baseman I`m sure you know this by now but I`ll tell you anyway. Only the front and rear floor sheets have the shell sitting on top of the floor. The rest of the floor sheets have the C channel attached on the edge of the floor sheet. The C channel along the sides is actually a double C with the vertical section used to attach the shell and the interior walls. The horizontal section wraps around the edge of the floor sheets. They can be replaced in one piece but require you to flex the shell outwards to get the sheet to fit. This usually requires releasing the entire shell from the C channel so it will flex. If you plan on replacing only one of the other floor sheets it can be cut and installed in two pieces. Make the cut off center, preferably on top of the main frame rail so the seam will have support from below.
I found that removing the wheel wells was difficult with the shell still on. They slide under the floor sheets and there wasn`t much room to remove them with the shell in the way. It can be done just not as easy. As I was doing a shell off I just left them in place until after the shell was off.
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Old 03-31-2011, 04:45 PM   #23
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Chris, I was thinking that I only need to remove the interior wheel well cover, which seems to be rivettes to the wall and screwed into the floor(sittng right on top). I see what you are talking about on the difference in the channel along the bottom. I am in the process of trying to borrow some more jackstands. I am starting to get my welding feet back under me (worked a couple of years in a shipyard a long long time ago) I had forgotten how much I liked it. I am seriously considering laying a piece of 3" channel inside the frame rails all the way down, or maybe just boxing the main channels in with 1/8 or 3/16 plate from the front axle on back. Still thinking about it. This weekend, I will have to reorganize everthing in my little shop to make room for the front 1/2 of the interior.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:09 PM   #24
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Baseman this is the type of jack I used to level the frame:
Camper Jacks to Level your RV on Sale

If you box in the frame make sure you leave room for the waste tanks and their mounting angle iron. I did box in my frame up front and around the axle area and behind the waste tanks. My waste tanks are right behind the axles and I have about 4 ft of frame behind them. Mine is a center bath model.
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Old 04-01-2011, 04:47 PM   #25
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Those little jacks look like a good idea, just ordered 2 sets of them. My trailer is only 25' so I think 8 of them will be enough. I'm going to borrow 4 Jack stands from a friend also for added safety since my shell is still on. I'll go ahead and drop the axles too and repair the axle mounting plate as well. It looks like it has rust behind them pushing them out at the ends.
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Old 04-01-2011, 05:00 PM   #26
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Baseman Yes 8 will do. Look at it this way you've got 6 ft less frame to repair than I did. the good thing about these jacks is that they are very easy to adjust in small increments not like jack stands which only have a few larger ajustment points.
BTW do you have a first name? I feel kind of silly calling you baseman all the time.
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baseman View Post
Those little jacks look like a good idea, just ordered 2 sets of them. My trailer is only 25' so I think 8 of them will be enough. I'm going to borrow 4 Jack stands from a friend also for added safety since my shell is still on. I'll go ahead and drop the axles too and repair the axle mounting plate as well. It looks like it has rust behind them pushing them out at the ends.
Wally World sells them too.
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:13 PM   #28
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Chris, my name is Brad.
Thank all of you guys again for all the knowledge and support.
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