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Old 01-18-2006, 04:55 PM   #43
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I used Vulkem for the big seams, like around the vent, and parbond for the small ones. Parbond is a thinner aluminum-colored sealant that comes in a smaller tube. I used it to seal the panel seams on my trailer.
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Condoluminum
I think mfr brand name is Vulkem, rather than Vulcom.. It is a proprietary set of sealer goops that will stick to aluminum (unlike Silicone..) and eventually dry and stiffen up, without flaking and cracking for a long time...

Comes in bulk or tubes for use in caulking guns, and may come in colors other than gray.. Have extra rags/paper towels or cleanup tools handy...

John McG
Trempro is the manufacturer. You can get it from vintage trailer supply http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...lts.asp?Cat=24
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:26 PM   #45
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Here is a photo of what we did to fix the "Astrodome problem" om our Overlander. It is a piece of 1/8" plexiglass, cut about an inch larger on all sides than the frame, and Vulkemed, then screwed to the frame. If you have to buy the stuff, I would go for Lexan instead, as it is more resistant to UV from sunlight than Plexiglass.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:31 PM   #46
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Replacement skylight

The above design will have a tendancy to leak water when you are dragging the unit down the road in the rain. I used corregated Lexan when I made mine and fabricated an aluminum L channel to go around the outside edges. The corregation gives you better insulation and a nice diffused sunlight. It also does not stress crack around where the holes have to be fto secure the elevator jacks. The L channel has about 3/4 inch hanging down to prevent the leak problem. It is similar to the lip on the original plastic design. I have had mine on the unit for about 10 years now and no problems.
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Old 01-19-2006, 06:39 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi
The above design will have a tendancy to leak water when you are dragging the unit down the road in the rain. I used corregated Lexan when I made mine and fabricated an aluminum L channel to go around the outside edges. The corregation gives you better insulation and a nice diffused sunlight. It also does not stress crack around where the holes have to be fto secure the elevator jacks. The L channel has about 3/4 inch hanging down to prevent the leak problem. It is similar to the lip on the original plastic design. I have had mine on the unit for about 10 years now and no problems.
What didn't come out well in the photos is the1 1/2" lip at the front edge of the plexiglass that goes almost all the way to the roof from the frame of the vent. I have had no problems with leaking while towing with this. Of course, it probably would have helped if I either had a better picture, or thought to mention this in my previous post.
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:15 PM   #48
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Cool Idea!

Terry,
I think what you've done with your new skylight is cool-looking! I wish I had thought of something like that before I invested another $125 in a fiberglass, solid vent cover for my 67. I wonder (much later) if I could cut the center of my new cover out, then vulkem & rivet some plexiglas or lexan in the opening to make a nice see-through skylight like that? If I could make it leak-proof it would give me the best of both worlds. Know what I mean?

As a 3-week old newbie, when can I expect these ideas to stop?
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:36 PM   #49
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Hmmm - I've owned travel trailers since 1988 - have not stopped thinking yet....pretty sick huh?

Ken J.
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Old 01-21-2006, 07:50 AM   #50
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Looks like alot of help. The one area that may next more consideration is the shocks and axel. A host of minor problems and bad axels and out of balance wheels could tear that area apart. If the rivets were sheared you may be able to see part of the rivet in the wheel well side. This wheel well shell attachment seems a major dynamic structural feature and I would expect the shell waves to develop just from the rivets being out. It is the fulcum point. Check out axel threads before you put much work into this. If the axel is bad it will just keep tearing itself apart. If the trailer is rock solid when you are walking around inside then the rubber axel is also likely hardened.
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:40 AM   #51
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Use Vulkem #921, grey. It is smooth (no fiber content) and can be worked with a finger dipped in paint thinner. Probably won't find this at Home Depot or Lowes since they cater to house builder types who like the fibered version. A really good True Value hardware store or an industrial supplier should have it.
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Old 01-21-2006, 06:58 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
... when can I expect these ideas to stop?
If your Overlander is lucky, good ideas will never stop.

Steve at Vintage Trailer Supply sold me most of the Vulkem I used. I like dealing with him as he emailed me when a delay in receiving my parts was possible.

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Old 01-22-2006, 07:01 AM   #53
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Rock Solid Axles? How d'ya Know?

OVER95: Your logic makes sense. My trailer makes a "giving" noise (not really a squeak) as I walk up and down the center floor. No, the floor is not making the noise. It's 99% solid from what I can see so far...I plan on replacing shocks in a few days. What's the simplest way a newbie can inspect the axles for replacement wear?

DAROL INGALLS: Thanks for the part number! I check locals.

TOMW: Good to hear from you! Seems we have similar tastes in 67 Overlanders AND Vintage Trailer Supply. Steve is absolutely the BEST I've found...so far. He read of my despair and made a personal phone call to me to help ease my pain. Felt 100% afterward. Plan on doing business with him in the near future.

Thanks again to all. Your help is priceless!
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Old 02-12-2006, 12:29 AM   #54
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Lots of Good News!

Hey, All! Been a while since I've posted anything regarding my concerns that birthed this thread in the first place. Here's what's been concluded after taking all your advice and following countless hours of inspection and repairs:

1. Axles: Believe it or not...still good! Followed procedures outline in several threads, and it's still within the bounds of acceptability.
2. Floors: Still only 2 or 3 very small soft spots. None of these compromise the integrity of the floor. Dropping the belly pan reveals some of the bath flooring had been replaced. Not the BEST job, but certainly acceptable.
3. Shifted Shell? No. More like a RELAXED SHELL on the streetside. If the shell had indeed shifted we would have seen signs on the curbside and roof. Apparently, the prolonged towing without a balanced running gear resulted in the shearing of some key support rivets. Oddly, replacing those one at a time made TONS of differences in the ceiling panels AND the wavy sides. All tires and wheels are balanced now.....
4. What about the wavy sides? Almost corrected themselves! It's amazing how each rivet plays an important part in supporting the skins.

These "waves" are what started this whole dreaded, yet educational thread. After closely investigating other 65-68's I see they are suffering from the same dilemma. I guess my expectations of a 40 year old AS were a bit too high...you think?

My Overlander is scheduled for a first Family camping trip for Spring Break (mid March 2006). Only minor repairs and cosmetics remain. May swap my Firestone tires for some Goodyear Marathons like most of you. I'll keep you informed, but it will be much later. Have lots of work coming up, so you may think I've fallen off the face of this good old earth. Enjoy life! Thanks again to all who help pull me through this tough spot. Love ya Big-time!!
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Old 02-12-2006, 01:43 AM   #55
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I have been watching this thread. That's great news. Enjoy your trip in March !

Chris
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Old 02-13-2006, 02:53 PM   #56
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End of a Sweet Saga...

Please read the thread "I Never Can Say Goodbye" for the very latest on the Airstream in our life....
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