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Old 01-13-2006, 05:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
Thanks for sharing this "buyer's remorse" with my family. I'll let you know the date and time of the funeral.................
Looks like you have come to grips with you new project, we just picked up a 31' that had "soft" spot. We ended up taking out the first 5' if the floor and moving on!

What ever life throws at you, iffin ya don't like it fix it
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Old 01-13-2006, 06:01 PM   #30
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File...Print or Copy...Paste to Word

KenJ,
Just tried both ways, and either approach works. Be sure to set the printer to DRAFT so it won't take so long to print.

What will I do with all this info? I'm starting my very own notebook with photos, parts suppliers, THIS FORUM, etc. I'm sure that's not an original idea, especially with such an intelligent crowd as this.

Oh, by the way...did any of you miss this forum when it seemed to have gone "down" earlier today? Couldn't get to the website. Almost went into withdrawals, if you know what I mean!
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Old 01-13-2006, 06:25 PM   #31
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Here are two attachments to see options on the thread menu to be able to go to a thread print friendly screen. You will notice theres a show all threads two use to print in one attempt and not 3.
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Old 01-13-2006, 06:26 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
Hey, all...I don't want to forget everything you've all told me, and I surely want to keep track of those who have helped in this venture. May I ask another toddler question? How can I print this entire thread? I've looked for a print button or command, but can't seem to find one.
At the top of the thread there is a "thread tools" click on it and it will give you a selection, try the Show Printable Version, hit print and see what comes out

Aaron
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Old 01-13-2006, 07:49 PM   #33
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I win!

I know, I shouldn't take joy in misery (and really I'm NOT!), but I think your observations in the wheel well point to the shell shifting down on the street side. Even if you are not seeing rot from the inside floor out, I'd be willing to bet that there is rot UNDER the c-channel that holds the inner and outer skin to the floor. If you look at Airstream's website "building the airstream" section, you'll see that the trailer is a frame, with wood going all the way around the frame, and the shell mounts to the wood. If the wood rots under the c-chanel, you may not see that compression unless you take off the inner skin on the lower level only.... or if you can see if it looks like the inner skin sinks under the wood floor surface. If it looks like the wood is solid, then I'd also bet that your outriggers sagged or came off- dropping the shell down.

I'm curious what's under your belly wrap! Let us know your next step!

As an aside - if it's only the outriggers, then to "fix" the shell - I'd mount LONG 2x4's longitudially (front to back) on the upper ceiling, and put 4x4's on bottle jacks under that 2x4 right under where the ribs are. Then I'd slowly lift the shell from inside on the street side before welding up those outriggers. But first - I'd get some other opinions before trying this! I only slept in a Holiday Inn Express, but I think Andy told us a simular fix elsewhere.
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Old 01-13-2006, 07:51 PM   #34
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FIVE! Airstreams?

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
...... we just picked up a 31' that had "soft" spot.....
What, ANOTHER ONE???!!! Somebody's got it bad! I'd be buying more too if I had the parking space.
Wheww.... good thing I don't!
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Old 01-13-2006, 09:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
GT6921....The size of this spot is approximately 8" x 4". Is that large enough to compromise the integrity of the floor? Would you go to the trouble of replacing that small piece?

The OTHER SOFT SPOT (as mentioned earlier...see pics) is in the HW Heater compartment, along the outside wall very close to the rear bumper. This is definitely the most obvious...you can see the bumper through the hole about the size of your palm. Other wood along that wall looks worse than it is. Again, would you remove the entire bathroom to replace this piece, or use another case of that expandable foam? (ha!)

Our floor rot was about the same size (and appearance) as your pictures in our 63 Overlander so we initially thought it was going to be a simple plywood patching deal. Turned out to be rusted-through frames under that small rotten spot.Taking out the whole bathroom was in order for the job to be done right. Besides safety issues, a nice clean new bathroom is a good thing It sounds like you are going to be doing a thourough job with your inspection with safety in mind and you have come to the right place for solid advice. Don't get frustrated even if you need to do some furniture removal and welding. Almost all of us have "been there , done that" and those who haven't are headed there
By all means it doesn't have to be perfect, take the advice from the listee who said "just go camping"!
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Old 01-13-2006, 09:25 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
Hi, all...I am heartbroken, sick to my stomach, depressed, scared...you name it. I feel like someone might feel who searched all his life for the perfect mate, married her, then 10 days later he discovers she only has a few days to live.
"And ya need a hand to hold..reach out.."
Check out this oldie by the the Four Tops, song #1, you know, like the forum, they'll be there for ya!
Let the church say Amen!
Aren't these folks great?? Uh huh, Amen!
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:32 AM   #37
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To all, a good night!

It's now 1:25 am...You'll all be glad to know I've been bonding with my 67 for the past few hours. Where does the time go? Before I say good night, let me respond to a few previous posts from my new friends:

JPAIRSTREAM & WAHOONC...Thanks for the help with printing this thread. That's exactly what I was looking for. I owe you both.

MARC: Yup! Everything you say makes sense, except using the 2x4's on the inside to roll that shell back in place (if that becomes necessary)....I know what you're talking about, but I'm guessing you'll expect me to remove the inner panels before I use that wood, right? Also, I plan to remove the belly wrap AFTER I finish installing my new roof vents/gaskets, a few window clips (to pull them tight) and a door striker pocket. We're expecting rain in a couple of days, so I don't want to chance any more problems than I already have.

SQURLGURL: I can only HOPE my 67 is not that bad, but odds are it is. Whatever the case, I am confident this forum can hold my hand through it all. Thanks!

and then there's TIN SISTA: Love that spirit, girl! Keep us all lookin' good and lookin' up!

Gotta get some beauty sleep. Visit with you in a few hours..................
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Old 01-14-2006, 02:12 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
MARC: Yup! Everything you say makes sense, except using the 2x4's on the inside to roll that shell back in place (if that becomes necessary)....I know what you're talking about, but I'm guessing you'll expect me to remove the inner panels before I use that wood, right?
I'll speak for Marc with a 'yup', as that brings up a topic I wanted to mention. Taking off those interior panels is not very hard. I used a sturdy paint scraper, slid up behind the panel against a rivet, and tapped it with a hammer. Pop, off comes the rivet. Repeat. It really goes quite quickly. Putting them back up also goes quickly, as long as you keep track of which side is up and where the panel came off from. Then the holes should line up and you rivet them right back on with a hand riveter.

However, looks like you have other stuff to investigate before you get quite that deep into it. I just wanted to mention it because when I did it I thought that was going to be a really big deal, but it turned out not to be. They were easy to take off and put back on. So that's one part that shouldn't scare you at all.
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Old 01-14-2006, 08:14 AM   #39
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I really agree with Marc - there could be a lot of rot under those C channels

Also - here we go with 10 different opinions - I would not use a paint scraper to cut rivets - yes it works - but it is better to drill them out because if you hit the rivet from the side and cut it , it tends to make the rivet hole larger - best to drill them out.

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Old 01-18-2006, 01:44 PM   #40
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Living in Rivetville (A Brief Update)

Hey, all...a brief update on my 67 Overlander. Work has prohibited me from having time to crawl under to drop the belly pan (BUT I WILL DO THAT SOON!). However, I've had time to go inside and take a closer look at all the rivets on the inside ceiling and walls.

The previous owner fried fish a lot in this craft, so there was a considerable amount of gunk to clean off the ceiling and walls. After a gallon of 409 Deep Cleaning spray and 2 dozen formerly-white-now-grease-colored terry cloths, I was able to methodically locate, drill out, and replace all missing, loose, or questionable rivets. Wanna guess how many rivets I replaced? Somewhere in the neighborhood of 40-50 (I purchased a box of 100, and it looks half gone).

Without a doubt the previous owner definitely allowed the baby to shake, rattle and roll on down the rough, rocky, country roads and highways of Texas. Everything I've seen, from loose or missing rivets (inside and out) to possibly loose or broken outriggers and a skin that's slipped to one side indicates much traveling without proper balancing of the running gear.

I'm almost finished making sure my vessel is not going to let in rain (when and IF it should rain in Texas this year). I have one more roof vent (called an "astrodome"?) to replace and four more window clips to install before I give it the garden hose test. If it passes, I'll be scheduling a time to drop that belly pan. THEN we'll all know for sure what's caused the ripples in the sides, the missing rivets, and the crack in the ceiling panel.

By the way....what's the best stuff to use for resealing the flashing on the roof vents? The old stuff looks dark gray (or black?), but it's dried up and flaking off. Someone said use "Kool Patch" or "Parbond." Can't find anything I'm happy with from Lowe's or Home Depot. Guess I'll stop by a nearby RV place on the way home. Any words of wisdom?
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:35 PM   #41
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Vulcom

Use only vulcom on aluminum. You should be able to get it at Home Depot or Wal-Mart.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:15 PM   #42
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Try Vulkem too...

I think mfr brand name is Vulkem, rather than Vulcom.. It is a proprietary set of sealer goops that will stick to aluminum (unlike Silicone..) and eventually dry and stiffen up, without flaking and cracking for a long time...

Comes in bulk or tubes for use in caulking guns, and may come in colors other than gray.. Have extra rags/paper towels or cleanup tools handy...

John McG
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