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01-31-2006, 01:07 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 164
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Interior End Cap Removal: HELP!
I couldn't stand looking at those two dents in the front roof panels of my 67 Overlander, so I took a typical Airstream leap of faith. I've removed everything attached to the fiberglass end cap, including every rivet associated with it. This includes the removal of the storage cabinet just above the front window and sofa. Like a child on Christmas morning, I could hardly wait to move the insulation out of the way and gently push on the lower portions of both dents.....
POP....What a wonderful sound!!!!
After only 15 minutes of firmly massaging the inside of the exterior skins I was able to successfully correct 85% of the indentations. NOW....to get the rest of those dents out will mean I must remove that fiberglass end cap. I've tried moving it, but it won't budge.
Has anyone ever tried to remove the end cap alone, rather than removing all the interior panels? I spent 2 hours last night surfing our forum, and all I could find were those of you who totally gutted the interior. Nothing about removing the end cap alone.
After further study, it seems to me the end cap was installed FIRST, then the bottom and side panels were installed, overlapping the edge of the end cap by 1-2 inches. Removing the bottom panels would be fairly easy, but the two top ceiling panels (one on each side of the middle joint) run the full length of the trailer! PLEASE don't tell me I've got to remove my walls, appliances, etc. before I can get this end cap loose enough to take out.
I read a post last night about someone taking his to the factory and they easily (of course) R & R'd the end cap in one afternoon. Surely there's a shortcut or a trick I'm missing. If you need pics to understand what I'm talking about, I'll gladly send them, but it will be later tonight. I'm at work now and can't get away any sooner.
Let me know what you all think, especially if you've been successful in removing the end cap without gutting the rest of the interior. Thanks for any input. I'll be waiting on the sidelines............
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01-31-2006, 03:20 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
1971 29' Ambassador
Braunschweig
, Germany
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 410
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Hi Sierrajb,
the 1972 Service Manual says this:
1. Remove drapery track and drapes
2. Remove front window screen
3. Remove wing window closeout (definetly not in your trailer )
4. Remove side window valance, top drapery track, drapery (again not in your trailer)
5. Remove all pop rivets where front liner and interior skin mate.
6. Remove app. 24" of rivets from sean between ceiling and side sheets
7. Remove pop rivets from front window top of front window frame (these rivets go through frame into front liner)
8. Remove central controll panel and radio
9. remove reading lights
10. Remove pop rivets from side and front wraps. Remove wraps
11. With interior skin held back remove all pop rivets attaching front liner to rib.
12. Go over entire front liner to be sure that all attachments have been removed
13. with interior skin held out of way, rotate end liner down and out
14. for installation reverse procedure
Note: Minimum of two men required
15. Good luck!!
Not shure if this will work for a 1960´s trailer, but maybe it gives you a hand... Can anyone from the 1960´s trailer people jump in if I am totally wrong?!
Bjoern
__________________
Björn H. Adam
Wolfenbuettel, Germany
AirstreamForumsMember No. AIR 5535
Proud Owner of a 1971 Ambassador 29' called "Dave"
-A stranger is a friend you just haven´t met before!-
unknown irish
davetheairstream
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01-31-2006, 04:31 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 164
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Calling All 60's!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pschoerrn
Hi Sierrajb,
the 1972 Service Manual says this:
1. Remove drapery track and drapes
2. Remove front window screen
3. Remove wing window closeout (definetly not in your trailer )
4. Remove side window valance, top drapery track, drapery (again not in your trailer)
5. Remove all pop rivets where front liner and interior skin mate.
6. Remove app. 24" of rivets from sean between ceiling and side sheets
7. Remove pop rivets from front window top of front window frame (these rivets go through frame into front liner)
8. Remove central controll panel and radio
9. remove reading lights
10. Remove pop rivets from side and front wraps. Remove wraps
11. With interior skin held back remove all pop rivets attaching front liner to rib.
12. Go over entire front liner to be sure that all attachments have been removed
13. with interior skin held out of way, rotate end liner down and out
14. for installation reverse procedure
Note: Minimum of two men required
15. Good luck!!
Not shure if this will work for a 1960´s trailer, but maybe it gives you a hand... Can anyone from the 1960´s trailer people jump in if I am totally wrong?!
Bjoern
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Bjoern,
Thanks for a quick response. Even though there's a difference of 5 years and a complete body style change since 67, there are some strong similarities in the procedures you've listed. In reality, I have completed steps 1-9 where applicable. I have NOT removed rivets from the ceiling and lower panels that overlap the end cap for various reasons...the MAIN reason being I want to be sure I can handle this without needing to gut my interior. I really need to find someone who's done this on a 60's AS with good success. With a forum like this, it's just a matter of time before I get someone who's "Been There, Done That!" Thanks for your help!
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02-01-2006, 04:44 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Type no evil...
Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
... After further study, it seems to me the end cap was installed FIRST, then the bottom and side panels were installed, overlapping the edge of the end cap by 1-2 inches. Removing the bottom panels would be fairly easy, but the two top ceiling panels (one on each side of the middle joint) run the full length of the trailer! PLEASE don't tell me I've got to remove my walls, appliances, etc. before I can get this end cap loose enough to take out ...
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I went and studied my Overlander very carefully. If you are lucky, and have many hands helping, you may only have to remove the galley cabinets. The interior skins might then droop enough for you to accomplish your primary goal.
High pucker factor though.
Tom
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02-01-2006, 06:28 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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You are on a very slippery sloop. Back away before it's too late and you go for the full monty. At least get additional muscle. Putting the end cap back was one of the hard parts of my rebuild so far. Getting it to line up was alot of pushing ect and you will be working with the ends of the panels in the way. Whats a few battle scares anyway.
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02-02-2006, 01:06 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 164
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I Can Live With It Now!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
You are on a very slippery sloop. Back away before it's too late and you go for the full monty. At least get additional muscle. Putting the end cap back was one of the hard parts of my rebuild so far. Getting it to line up was alot of pushing ect and you will be working with the ends of the panels in the way. Whats a few battle scares anyway.
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Thanks, TomW. That was one of my guesses, too. Not really in the mood to do all of that.
Over59, you're absolutely right. I can't get any "peace" about going any further...and my family's not ready for Mr. Monty. I'm gonna take your advice (combined with the insight of TomW, et. al.). First thing after work tomorrow I'm putting it back together (end cap is in original position, still). I've worked all I can with those dents FROM THE INSIDE, and it really looks pretty good! In fact, if you're across the street, you'll have to look real hard to find one of them (very top). The other still has a crease that will serve as a perfect "beauty mark" and conversation piece with the friends. I'll try to post pics later.
Read somewhere about using a hot glued dowel stick to pull from the outside. I'll sit on that idea for awhile....
Thanks again to all, especially Hilary, for emailing her insight, too.
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02-02-2006, 01:19 AM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 164
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OOPS With the Karma Button????
Hey, Over59...
I wanted to give you GOOD Karma for your wake-up call on your last post to me, but I THINK I may have accidently hit the "disapprove" button. If I did, I sure didn't mean it!!!!!!
It's 2:15 am, been outside on the 67 too long, and I've suddenly had one of those "duh" moments. I'm sure someone on this forum can identify with this phenomena.
Gotta get some shut-eye............................
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