I hope you'll welcome ... 'Solid Comfort'!

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by awryawry

... of course!
Photos of before and after air-admittance valves for drainage system on the '99.

Note the originals simply have a rubber diaphragm which, IMO, are wholly ineffective at preventing sewer gas from leaking into the AS. Modern air-admittance valves are much more sophisticated devices. These are Studor vents. Now under KS (shown) and vanity.



wryawry

Hi, I was concerned about my valve in the bathroom; I tried to unscrew it, but it won't budge. Or do I remove the top cover and turn it from there? I don't want to break the pipe and it doesn't look like enough room to cut it. So basically, how did you remove yours? [I heard that some are glued on]

[awryawry]

... are threaded into an 1-1/2" female adapter. The adapter is solvent-welded to the vent riser pipe. I found it simpler to simply cut-off the old ones with a cable saw.

Easy does it!

wry

[awryawry]

... for Solid Comfort:
1. The blackwater tank monitor shows 'full' but tank is half empty, indicating a gummed-up sensor. Can someone tell me where in the tank the sensor probes are located so that I can attempt to aim a jet of water at it?

2. Rainwater leak; I'm guessing that it is leaking through the "belly band" rub rail ..... suggested fixes? Continuous bead of epoxy along the top of the rail?

Any and all advice or shared wisdom is greatly appreciated!

wry

[Safari-Rick]

Do you think that Aistream HQ ever reviews these type issues or even looks at the forum site ?

[switz]

Welcome to the forums.

Thanks for the plumbing information with photos for sink vents.

[awryawry]

Originally Posted by awryawry

... for Solid Comfort:
1. The blackwater tank monitor shows 'full' but tank is half empty, indicating a gummed-up sensor. Can someone tell me where in the tank the sensor probes are located so that I can attempt to aim a jet of water at it?

2. Rainwater leak; I'm guessing that it is leaking through the "belly band" rub rail ..... suggested fixes? Continuous bead of epoxy along the top of the rail?

Any and all advice or shared wisdom is greatly appreciated!

wry

... that ASHQ looks at this forum, but owners of newer models might be able to chime-in if any of the issues noted in earlier model years have been addressed in newer units.

3. I'm attaching a photo of one of the roof vents with an epic caulk job, which is representative of all the roof penetrations. Is this normal, or does this likely represent a PO's efforts to stem roof leaks? Do Fantastic Fans (or equiv.) have a larger footprint which would cover this ... um ... ogliness?

Thanks for taking the time to respond to my newbie questions,

wry

[PhilipKS]

The fantastic fan has the same footprint. Best solution is to strip all that gunk off and see what the original problem was, and try again. Eternabond tape is also a solution.

EternaBond

As for the black tank sensor, I can only say mine does the same thing. I've had it read empty only once, after a really thorough cleaning with a wand. Can't tell you where the sensors actually are. On the other hand, it is easy to tell when the Black Tank is approaching full visually, so the sensor isn't really needed.

Best of luck!

Philip

[batman]

Greetings, Salutations and a hearty welcome to you and Comfort.
Your rain water leak is probably not the rub rail. That is just what is sounds like a rub rail. It does nothing to repel water. The leak can be higher up, probably a window or even your vent. The leak you have can be found with a hose and patience, start low and work your way up. Then sealed with An Airstreamers best friend (Vulkem)-TremPro 626, Parbond or Captain tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. Good job so far and good luck with your leaks.

-Dennis

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by awryawry

... for Solid Comfort:
1. The blackwater tank monitor shows 'full' but tank is half empty, indicating a gummed-up sensor. Can someone tell me where in the tank the sensor probes are located so that I can attempt to aim a jet of water at it?

2. Rainwater leak; I'm guessing that it is leaking through the "belly band" rub rail ..... suggested fixes? Continuous bead of epoxy along the top of the rail?

Any and all advice or shared wisdom is greatly appreciated!

wry

1. A good way to clean the sensor is to have about 5 gallons of water in the tank then add 10lbs of ice cubes and drive around for a while.

2. As said the leak could be higher then the rub rail, if it is the rail it is a good idea to remove it and seal underneath, most important place is across the back where the plate for the bumper compartment funnels water directly to the plywood floor.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by awryawry

... that ASHQ looks at this forum, but owners of newer models might be able to chime-in if any of the issues noted in earlier model years have been addressed in newer units.

3. I'm attaching a photo of one of the roof vents with an epic caulk job, which is representative of all the roof penetrations. Is this normal, or does this likely represent a PO's efforts to stem roof leaks? Do Fantastic Fans (or equiv.) have a larger footprint which would cover this ... um ... ogliness?

Thanks for taking the time to respond to my newbie questions,

wry

3. For a certain kind of caulk (I forget which kind) that is the "normal" and/or "correct" way to apply it.

[awryawry]

Howdy, All;

Seems I successfully cleansed the blackwater tank sensor on Solid Comfort with the 3/8" directional wand -- note to self: attach flashlight to wrist with lanyard in case it slips ... anyway, sensor seems responsive to tank levels. I filled and flushed repeatedly just to try the scrunge removal.

I began modifying the 100W PV panel to hang over the front window in lieu of the plexiglas window protector. The top-mount piano hinge is offset outward to accommodate the slope of the front above the belly band, as well as to permit the panel to swing upward somewhat beyond the perpendicular should we find the sun aft.

The hinge is bolted at the panel extender to permit mounting the angle bracket above the window over the existing skin penetrations before attaching the panel.

The panel will prop-up with telescopic poles until I find hydraulic rams to suit.
I'll probably surface-mount the conductors in a conduit for the time being before tackling the permanent wire routing. The PO mounted the battery in a box on the frame behind the LP tanks.

Pictures of the PV panel upper frame extension and hinging set-up.

I welcome feedback,

wryawry

[rmkrum]

Really nice looking idea for mounting the solar panel. Minor thought--with the panel in the front like that, it is a bit vulnerable to rock damage while towing?. Maybe an additional cover to prevent that.

Another thought on hydraulic rams to lift the panel. Do a Google search for electrical positioners. A quick look got me to Screw Jacks, Linear Actuators and Electric Cylinders by Joyce --there are many others.

I have seen electrically operated screw-drive rams that come in various sizes, both length and lift force, and can be remotely controlled. They have limit switches to keep from bending things at the end of travel and would be a nice way to tilt the panel--just tune for maximum output from inside the Airstream...

Heh, I'm not going to ask how you concluded a flashlight lanyard was a good idea.....but I'm going to learn from your experience...(grin)

[awryawry]

Greetings, Fellow Air Stream Snobs,

I'm hoping someone will be able to tell me that the screws that fasten the main door hinges do not have nuts behind them, or if they do that the nuts are captive.

I have a loose hinge, and I don't want to remove the phillips-head screw if there is a nut behind that may fall.

In other words, will this hinge repair necessitate the removal of the inner skin?

Thanks for the help,

wryawry

[Wazbro]

Unfortunately there are nuts on the back that will fall if you can get the screws out of them. Some just cut a small hole in the inner skin then put in a patch.

[awryawry]

... to you good folks that have responded to my ceaseless queries. Next:

Depending upon the depth of the machine screw installed to hold the door hinge to the frame, it appears as though it would be possible -- and perhaps preferred -- to drill through the side of the door-jamb itself, horizontally from the screw holes, in order to provide back-up for the nut within the wall that I've been told will fall into the void if the machine screw is removed.

Drilling the appropriately-sized hole to receive a pre-manufactured blind plug after the hardware remediation would seem a happier solution to accessing these fasteners than removing the headache pad and inside trim and then drilling through the inner skin.

so ..... how long are the door hinge machine screws?

Thanks again to all the fascinating contributions to this incredibly comprehensive forum!

wryawry

[Wazbro]

I don't remember how long they are. It is possible to get to the nut through the door jam but, I don't think you will be able to do much with a round hole, you would probably need to put in slots.

[awryawry]

Greetings.

I tackled the door hinge problem with quite satisfactory results, and I did not have to tear-up the interior door trim and wall finish.
1. Drill 1-3/8" holes through side of door jamb at upper hinge lateral screw
locs.
2. Remove top -- uppermost -- 1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" long machine screw.
(This fastener was missing the internal nut and was threaded only
into the aluminum door frame and RO stud.)
3. Replace machine screw with 2" long SS screw.
4. Connect with steel bushing (spacer), SS washer, SS lock washer, SS nut.
(Note to self: shove FG insulation down into channel to catch dropped
hdwe.)
(Note to self: stuff additional stuff into channel because there wasn't
enough, and you dropped a 1/4"-20 SS nut down into the cavity,
and it is now lost forever, you turrible knucklehead...)
5. Snug new hdwe.
6. Gently coerce hinge back into vertical alignment with a hammer and a
woodblock.
7. Repeat steps 3-5 with lower screw. This had a standard zinc nut, rusted.
(Note foto -- the lower access hole I drilled slightly closer to the
exterior of the jamb. This put me right at the inner frame surface.)
8. Torque new hdwe mightily.
(Note foto: had to use 2-1/2" SS m. screws cuz store was out 2".
7/16" wrench fits within access hole; tiny tightening increments.
No distortion noted @ exterior frame or skin.)
9. Mask alu door jamb and fill void with expandable foam to reduce potential
hdwe loosening.
10. Whittle hardened foam to allow insertion of 1-3/8" pre-manufactured grey
plastic flush plug. Adhere with silicone caulk.
11. Repeat process for lower hinge.

Some fotos attached,

wry

[awryawry]

Additional note: these caps do not impact the screen door hinges at all.
Check door reveals and function before final tightening of hdwe.

[awryawry]

Cool beans -- I got the PV panel hinge-mount attached to the front of Solid Comfort this afternoon. I riveted a heavy-gauge aluminum angle to the AS above the front window, utilizing the existing penetrations from the original plexiglas awning/shield -- which had simply been sheet metal screwed to the skin. I had a nice alu piano hinge from some forgotten boat project which is riveted to the panel and bolted to the mounting angle. I still need to beauty-frame the panel to stand it off the front of Solid Comfort, and I'll attach some hydraulic arms at some point ... and fabricate some kind of travel cover.

Always nice to make headway,

wry

[awryawry]

Meh.

wryawry