Visit our Popular Forums

Stevareeno · 11-08-2019, 11:03 AM

Well, after bringing 2 Shastas (61 and 63) back from the dead, we have decided to push our luck and upgrade to a "downgraded" Airstream, ha, ha. It was abandoned in a field with an open roof vent for a few years. My oh my how that changed the subfloor.

I'll try to upload pics to this post in a bit. Having upload issues!
19ss1905 761 Maybe it is a '61 ?
M-4 S-1905 2431
Saratoga Springs CA.

Chat with Y'all soon.

Stevareeno

Stevareeno · 11-08-2019, 11:36 AM

Pictures attached

deasertman · 11-09-2019, 12:59 AM

Now that looks like a good one! Lol.
Welcome from NM.
I have three I have resurrected from that stage of negelec.

Desertman

Spurlucky · 11-09-2019, 03:52 AM

Wonderful. I am interested in its resurrection and restoration.

A W Warn · 11-09-2019, 05:19 AM

Welcome!

DGJackson · 11-09-2019, 05:33 AM

not sure what takes more labor - removing paint or polishing. I see both of these activities in your future.

66Overlander · 11-09-2019, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevareeno

Well, after bringing 2 Shastas (61 and 63) back from the dead, we have decided to push our luck and upgrade to a "downgraded" Airstream, ha, ha. It was abandoned in a field with an open roof vent for a few years. My oh my how that changed the subfloor.

I'll try to upload pics to this post in a bit. Having upload issues!
19ss1905 761 Maybe it is a '61 ?
M-4 S-1905 2431
Saratoga Springs CA.

Chat with Y'all soon.

Stevareeno

Yes, you have a 1961 19' Globetrotter. The serial number 19SS1905 indicates it is the 6th one built in the California plant. It was built in July 1961 (761).

Camper Crazy · 11-09-2019, 06:58 PM

Welcome Stevareeno. You are living my dream life, having done 2 Shasta's already! This diamond in the rough doesn't look as bad as I thought, judging from the outside. It is going to be such a sweet restoration. Looking forward to following and hoping you post pictures as you go. Good luck, hope what you find is so much better than you expect. )
CC
PS Have you posted pictures of the Shasta somewhere?

Argosy man · 11-09-2019, 08:31 PM

First reaction was “Holy S___”

But as I was studying the pictures; my mind was lining up the projects and where to start- how exciting! Love the size of it. Please keep us updated with the project and enjoy!

Shawn

Stevareeno · 11-10-2019, 07:49 AM

Day one was a doozy!

Scooping up mounds of broken down newspapers, car parts, cans, disintegrated subfloor, animal poop, bullets, soggy foam mattress. It’s all been there since the early 80’s judging by the newspaper date.

It's funny, since we brought this home Tuesday, I have been "dreaming" of this day of cleaning this thing out. Despite all our wonderful family moments ans stuff like that, I was losing sleep until finally getting the gloves on and seeing what we had.

Sorry this pics are sideways

The subfloor in the front section had completely crumbled and because of an open vent on the roof, caked on the belly pan like a pancake. This is my first Airstream, so i just thought the crap on the belly pan was junk, but it actually was a Subfloor Pancake, ha ha.

Ironically, I ran into a few old Shasta cans. Perhaps it's fade, having re-done 2 60's Shastas before. But those we in WAY better condition.
https://shastaastrodome.wordpress.com/

Next step is applying for title.
All the nameplates are there, but with some paint thinner, I uncovered a stamp on the A frame. "PA 2431" (going off memory, could be slightly difft). Hmm ?

And now we have to decide whether to rip out all the original cabinets, toilet, closets out and go for it, or sell it! (ok deep breath..)
Everything STINKS so bad that we are not keeping anything anyway but i thought if we tow it and have someone else do this, that the closets and things would provide some structural integrity.

Also deciding about the subfloor and reading other threads on that.
Whew, ok, coffee time on a Sunday morning.

Stevareeno · 11-10-2019, 08:07 AM

Also, thanks Joe for your VIN help! Wondering what digits actually gets printed on a paper title for the VIN on these.

I could send the DMV a whopper explanation but probably bets to just give them one set on numbers/letters.
Thanks!!

Stevareeno · 11-10-2019, 08:13 AM

Some more before pictures

4 bullet holes

Chicken wire wrapped from lower sides to underbelly

Stevareeno · 11-10-2019, 11:58 AM

Pics of framing in front . Rusty but still solid

Belly pan underneath. Have to admit I’m not a fan of the underbelly and insulation thing. I would like to just get rid of it and have subfloor. It’s what our 61 and 63 Shasta’s had and it was fine. Didn’t need insulation in Wisconsin summers. The pan will undoubtedly become a critter motel unless really buttoned up!

Stevareeno · 11-14-2019, 08:09 AM

Went from "clean up mode" to "taking apart" mode last night.
Navigating from raccoon poop to mouse poop.
Pulled out the front water tank, stove, fridge, sink unit, side sleeper pullout, heater.
It was all just nasty and encased with muckiness after years of sitting in a field. Thought a drawer or two could have been saved but it all stinks and, ugh. I have had luck with getting these old stoves to work, but for now this one is sitting in the yard.
The subfloor underneath all of this was basically non existent or crumbling. Those stacks of petrified pickled newspapers must have kept the moisture going. The frame however seems "thick and straight".

The thing we are facing is that the outer shell is still mounted to the outriggers (and seems solid and un-wiggly) but has uniformly sunk through the disintegrating plywood subfloor and is resting on strands of wood.
Any attempts to "just shove" new subfloor may be difficult.

I'm not of capability to pull off the shell. It's already WINTER here in WI and the camper is under the cover. The belly pan is mostly intact.

So within my wheelhouse is some kind of brackets to subfloor to frame securing. Subfloor cut to inside of the shell. Mounting would be using bolts and nuts from subfloor to frame. Shimming C channel where it meets frame if possible, and Using brackets from ribs to subfloor. Just don't want to lose fingers or push the frame off and ruin the whole thing.

Call it the Half A** approach, but with the right strength bolts and Olympic rivets, i think this could further support the already "not falling off" shell. Going to sand the frame and paint with Paint Over Rust.

So there is the diary entry of the day. Trying to get a family of 5 on the road this spring and possible turn this into a rig for my coffee roasting hobby.

If anyone needs a Norcal (sp) fridge let me know. Will get pics in a day or two.

If anyone has suggestions to my approach that would be welcomed.
Also have called 2 of 2 local RV and Vintage camper fix it places in Madison, WI area and all are booked SOLID. Like 3-4 deep and have to wait a year. CRAZY!

Steve

polarlyse · 11-14-2019, 08:56 AM

I don't know how far you are interested in traveling but we had some light work done at P&S Trailers near Toledo, Ohio and were very happy with their work and scheduling. They do the heavy work too so no fear there. Give them a call and check.

66Overlander · 11-14-2019, 09:00 AM

I think you will compromise the structural integrity of the complete trailer if you do not get the main floor between the shell and outriggers. Leaving a small strip of punky wood between the outriggers and c-channel is not a good idea, in my opinion.

Attached is a photo showing how I replaced some floor without taking the shell off on my 1962 Safari. I split each section of floor in two and used a backer board with screws and construction adhesive to reconnect the two halves for strength.

I used a floor jack and some wood to jack the body up to open the gap so that the floor could be slid into place between the c-channel and outriggers. I used a scrap piece of 2x6 for the vertical board. Not seen in this photo (and apparently I don't have a photo) is that there is another piece of 2x6 screwed to the vertical piece at the top. It was maybe 3' long and allowed the lifting force to be spread across at least two ribs/rivet lines, and could even span over a roof vent opening.

The first photo is of a test fit and the backer boards were not attached to the first half of the floor yet. I think they were about about 12" wide, which gave several inches for screws and construction adhesive on both sides of the seam.The second photo is of a backer board from below (but I only installed the screws from the top), since the belly pan was opened up for frame work and to install a gray tank.

P.S. I might be interested in some parts from your stove if they are less rusty than those on my original stove.

Stevareeno · 11-14-2019, 11:56 AM

Thanks all.

Thanks for explaining the lifting part. Will play around with it and give it some more thought. Planning on leaving the interior skins ON so that might be different than others.

Thanks for the contact in Ohio also. Places being booked I suppose means there is a strong demand for their services. But as we speak, i'll need them less and less!

I'll get pics of the stove and all the other stuff.

66Overlander · 11-14-2019, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevareeno

Thanks all.

Thanks for explaining the lifting part. Will play around with it and give it some more thought. Planning on leaving the interior skins ON so that might be different than others.

Thanks for the contact in Ohio also. Places being booked I suppose means there is a strong demand for their services. But as we speak, i'll need them less and less!

I'll get pics of the stove and all the other stuff.

This is not a good plan. The body is attached to the outriggers and floor between the inner and outer skins. Bolts are used thru the C-channel to connect to the outriggers and screws are used thru the C-channel to connect to the floor. If you omit these, but just replace the floor between the skins you will have a structurally unsound body that will likely move around a lot as the trailer bounces down the road since it will not be connected to any good wood or the outriggers. I don't think a few angle brackets connecting the inner skin to the new floor will be enough. If you are building a stationary trailer, such as a pool house for your back yard, it might be OK until you go to sell and the next person tries to use the trailer "on the road".

You need not remove the upper inner skins, but the lower inner skins will need to be removed to to access the C-channel. If the trailer is gutted, temporarily removing the lower inner skins is not a big task, though you may occasionally find a "hidden rivet" that needs to be removed.

steinVT · 11-15-2019, 05:57 AM

Welcome to the crazy world of Vintage Airstream restoration. It can sometimes be overwhelming, but always rewarding.

When we got our Safari, I too wanted to do a shell-on floor replacement. As it turns out the frame was toast so that was no longer an option. So I built a gantry and pulled the shell. Found it was no big deal and made other repairs much easier. Replacing the belly pan on an upside down frame is a dream compared to crawling around on your back. Next spring I will be starting on our next project and I plan to pull the shell as well.

Regarding the inner walls, I would pull them to replace the insulation. The mice had quite the community in our trailer and the smell was unbelievable. Smells like a new trailer now.

Anyway, welcome aboard. It will be a fun ride and everyone here on the forums will be cheering you on.
Mark

StevieB · 11-15-2019, 06:25 AM

Good Morning from Michigan! I very good friend of mine lives in WI and he has a 67 Safari. I will send him a link to this blog, just in case you too need to share/swap stories. By the way, I was wondering if you belonged to TCT since you have previously restored Shastas?

Regards,

StevieB
WBCCI #1095