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Old 06-05-2012, 10:15 PM   #43
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Work on the floor continues. The last two days there has been major rain and wind, so it's given me a good chance to check out the windows and the base of the wall panels to make sure no water is coming in anywhere. So far it looks great.

I tore out the cabinets on either side of the gaucho, they were gross and I think moisture trappers. I am hoping to design something with the same/similar footprint that has better ventilation, so they are hanging out on the back porch for now. It was really something tearing them apart. All of the screws had gotten rusty and were difficult to access, so I wedged off the tops, unscrewed the sides from the walls of the trailer, and then got the crow bar underneath. I ended up actually standing on the crow bar to get enough leverage. It was quite exciting.

But, am I finished tearing out the floor? Nope. Because along with the carpet and nasty fiberglass-ish carpet pad (hello, lacerations) stapled to the subfloor, there is an edge of the original linoleum that goes around all of the walls and built-ins. This, too, is nailed and stapled, and since I am not removing any more cabinetry, I'm cutting along the edge with a utility knife to remove it.

So it's a little painstaking. I do have the materials to saturate the areas of rot once I'm done, and then I'm either going to seal the whole floor with primer or a poly based urethane. I have read a bajillion threads about how much it does/doesn't matter exactly what you put down, so I feel like I'm making fairly intelligent choices. Suggestions, however, always welcome.

Last thing about the flooring for now -- I am beginning to reconsider using the Forbo linoleum. I really prefer the look of the sheet, but with a furnace and water heater to replace, I definitely can't afford the professional install. And I do appreciate the simplicity and ease of installation of the Allure Trafficmaster. Not to mention the fraction of the cost. So I think I'm going to go with the Allure + fancy Flor carpet tiles by the beds and couch to make me feel like I'm not totally selling out, and then a few years down the road I can hopefully get the linoleum done. (P.S. Rednax, I'll bet you be piping up any minute with the merits of cork: I love cork, I just can't take any more brown than what's already in the SS!).
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:00 PM   #44
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I wasn't going to add a thing . . but the "brown" is offset by the fabric choices with curtains, sofa, bedding, etc. Then pillows, any artwork on walls, etc. Contrast can be over-rated.

A lot of work it sounds like. I was just last night wondering how things were going on this project.

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Old 06-06-2012, 10:07 PM   #45
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I am restoring an Avion camper and I was able to buy some Armstrong sheet vinyl from Wholesale Sheet Vinyl - Armstrong StrataMax Sheet Vinyl Flooring . I like the sheet vinyl because it seals the floor completely except for the edges. It does require someone who knows what they are doing to install it, but the internet pricing is very good.
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Old 06-07-2012, 04:08 PM   #46
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The trouble with sheet flooring is that if the cabinets and other fixed items are on top of it, when expansion/contraction occurs, the sheets can bunch up and you get humps in the floor. In Airstreams, the cheap vinyl sheeting seems to do this mostly when the temp gets below 0˚ F. If you glue down the sheeting, this may help. Make sure you use glues and urethane for exterior use because of the extreme temps in trailers. M2', I'll bet the interior of a trailer in Glendale can get to 130˚ and more—some glues will let go around that temp and expansion would be more of a problem than contraction. You could get the same result I did at below 0.

Once the flooring is glued down or trapped under cabinets, you cannot look under it for leaks. Locking panels or tiles may be liftable (the locking parts on some break easily, so carefulness is a virtue) or some carpet tiles can be lifted any time. I used Karndean "loose lay" and used one of the glues where you can remove the glued item anytime.

CarrieSue, the yellow toilet does provide an accent to the brown without too much contrast. Yellow shag carpeting perhaps? Much flooring comes in various shades of brown, but some linoleum has brighter colors and designs. Be careful about "linoleum" because sometimes it is actually vinyl. Linoleum is a much better product than vinyl, but stores mislabel frequently.

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Old 06-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #47
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(CarrieSue, IMHO, is a bit more savvy -- quite a bit -- than she lets on. Could probably school some of us trying to be of help. But, if she's anything like me, it's the concurrent fifteen lines of thinking on a single subject that need sorting.)

Final word on "brown". Sit on the floor and look up. The experience of the TT is from a seated position, often quite low.

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Old 06-07-2012, 07:51 PM   #48
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Gene, you are hilarious. I will take your yellow shag suggestion under advisement. And here I was thinking about avocado.

Rednax, thanks for the compliment. Savvy: definitely what I aim to be when I grow up. And you are right about the POV. I know this because I have been doing virtually nothing but sitting on the floor!

M2HB, I love the seamless appeal of sheet flooring, too, but since I can't do the install myself, if I was going to have it done, I would want to spring for the linoleum. That is my long term plan.

What will be interesting to see as this progresses is if my aesthetic vision causes cringe among the generally (how do I say this politely?) older-than-me crowd here on the forum. Being born in '78 myself, my sense of style is offended far more by what was worse about the '80s and '90s than the '70s. (All right-minded people, of course, recognize the majority of the '50s and '60s were pretty wonderful in terms of design... hello Scandinavia!).


My original design idea was a cross between a David Lynch film/Pendleton woolen mills -- slightly creepy and retro Northwest lodge-ish , but that was when I was looking for a '60s era Airstream. That's just not gonna fly with my SS.

But I'll admit: I actually genuinely like the smoked glass with the gold threads running though it. I definitely dig the gold mini-spotlights, and the style of the 8-track player in my SS. Shag carpet, and gold, green, and orange all together? Not so much. But I will definitely be referencing the '70s in my design choices.

Okay, so since I am planning on going the Allure route (installed widthwise) as a 2-3ish year short-term plan, I also feel like I can take a bit of a design risk. I am considering going with the Ironwood color, and I know what you all are going to say -- it's too dark. It is dark. But it's kind of swank, too. And I'm also going to have FLOR carpet tiles to brighten things up. And have I mentioned the bajillion feet of wraparound windows? Are you convinced yet?
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:37 PM   #49
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[QUOTE=CarrieSue;1158101] I will take your yellow shag suggestion under advisement. And here I was thinking about avocado.

My original design idea was a cross between a David Lynch film/Pendleton woolen mills -- slightly creepy and retro Northwest lodge-ish….


Okay, so since I am planning on going the Allure route (installed widthwise)….
[QUOTE]

I don't think avocado will go with the toilet, but it does go well with chips.

This may be the first mention of David Lynch on the Forum, but I haven't checked. Where has he been? Actually, Pendleton blankets work well with aluminum. We use one as a bedspread (see photo; reverses so field is red).

If I understand you correctly, you plan to have the Allure installed crosswise. When planks are installed that way it makes narrow spaces look choppy. It also can waste a lot in narrow hallways (around 25-30" wide) as the planks are usually 48", although you can alternate two half with a whole if the width works out. This would tone down the look, but most people install any kind of planking to run the same direction as the hallway (lengthwise). Allure is pretty easy to install. It can be cut with a sabre saw. Leave an expansion space all around hidden by trim such as quarteround. Because of the narrow spaces involved, it is best to dry fit the planks (or tile if you go that way) to see just how it works. I drew the pattern on the floor, numbered each space and then marked the back of each plank taking into account all strange spaces created in a trailer. Since it has been established you are savvy, you can figure this out. Measure the square footage carefully and add 10% for waste, maybe a little more because trailers have many small areas that eat pieces of flooring and if you do it, never having done this before, get more because you'll be learning and having more waste. Get all you need the first time because different lots can be slightly different color or HD may discontinue a flavor.

I didn't think much of '70's styles when I was there, and '40's-60's were pretty bad although some Danish modern was ok. But a lot was dark colors, heavy furniture flouncy appointments and general ugliness. Modernism was too cold. But give me Art Deco, Arts and Crafts, and Navajo weavings and I'm happy (and so is my wife). Airstreams lend themselves to those styles, maybe more so Art Deco than the others. You already have the silver, so add the black. I think the angularity and bright colors of some Navajos work well also. But that's an Airstream….

With the paneling, perhaps a tapestry featuring dogs playing cards and pool?

Gene
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:32 PM   #50
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Gene: I am very jealous of your Pendleton. It looks great. I happen to have a pretty sweet vintage Pendleton plaid mini-dress (ahem, similar to below), but no blankets thus far. There's a giant Pendleton outlet store nearby that I'll definitely be visiting between now and the fall. I'm hoping for a summertime steal.

Also, I get what you mean about the crosswise install making the hall look choppy, but I don't care for how the lengthwise looks in the main living area. I'll check the dimensions and see if what makes best use of the material.

Everybody: So, a couple of follow up questions as I get ready to prep the subfloor. I plan to use this product, which is what toastie used (talk about setting an example -- if you haven't read that thread you dang well ought to). I have been pulling out all of the nails and staples along with the tack strips and the edge of old linoleum, but there are areas (pretty much where that linoleum had been) that are kind of grotty with whitish residue, as seen in the first photo below. How should I clean this before applying the stain? Just scrape as much as I can off with a putty knife? Suggestions most welcome.

Next: Access to the floor in the bathroom is pretty tight on either side of the lovely gold commode. Is it realistic for me to think I can do an install of the Allure Trafficmaster without removing the toilet? Please say yes, I really don't want to take it out.

And another thing: in the second photo, you can see there's a bumped out rectanglular casing of some sort at the base of the wall that's covered in the same material as some of the walls. This is screwed over the original linoleum. I had been planning to just cut the old linoleum along this edge and install the new floor over the edge, leaving the necessary small gap, and sealing over it with some sort of flexible quarter round.

This would be a fine and dandy solution, I think, unless I need to actually access what's behind that casing... at which point I'd have to pull up the floor in that area. I should probably unscrew the casing and see what's underneath, right? Unless you, wonderful forum reader, already know and can tell me if it's important.

Because, if I need to run the new floor under that casing, I am afraid the clearance will be an issue and that will create a new problem that I don't want to deal with.

Whew, I hope that was explained clearly.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:43 PM   #51
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Hi, very interesting project you have going.


Reposting your pictures as my good deed for the year.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:56 PM   #52
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Bob, You wonderful man! I had neglected to take care of this -- much appreciated.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:58 PM   #53
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CarrieSue,

I know we bought one Pendleton factory 2nd at the discount outlet east of Vancouver, Wash., along the Columbia R. Town began with a "W". Another at a discount outlet in Lincoln City. Can't remember which was the one for the Airstream.

Deck/siding/log stuff is good for water seal type coatings, but I think a better product is a spar urethane. I used 2 coats on my subfloor. Epoxy paint would be even more water resistant, but I didn't want to go that far. Now that I've read of borate treatments for wood, I'd look into that to prevent rot in the future. If you use an oil based product (and I did), it will take weeks to get the odor out—keep vents open and run a couple of fans so you don't breathe in a lot of the gasses.

When I replaced the sheet vinyl, I didn't want to pull the toilet either. Who would? And, I didn't, since the vinyl in the bathroom was fine and we don't pay much attention to it anyway. A throw rug hides most of it. But, I'd advise you to pull the toilet, inspect the subfloor for rot, and put in a new seal. When you are doing the complete job on a vintage trailer, do it right. You will not be able to easily cut the flooring around the toilet and every time you look at it you'll see that spot you cut too big (or small). I can assure you toilets are disgusting and I've had to work on the drain under the toilet in one house for many hours of misery. I survived and my wife thought I was a hero. It was worth it.

I don't know what the white residue is, but—scrape, then try mild solvent (rubbing alcohol), stronger solvent, much stronger solvent, tactical nuclear device.

That casing may be a pipe chase. I am guessing.

The Plaid People in front of the fake castle reminds me of the early '60's. Not a high point in clothing styles. They'd fit right in in a Mad Men episode.

Gene
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:01 PM   #54
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Gene the town is Washougal. CarrieSue, If you dont remove the toilet you'll have a difficult time installing the floor. There should be only two bolts holding it on. You will have to disconnect the water supply as well. Put on some rubber gloves, long sleeves and tackle it. It's much better for the flooring material to go under the toilet and the cut around the flange won't be as critical. After you reinstall caulk around the bowl with a good mold resistant tub and tile caulking compound. Any acrylic caulk will work well and be easier to work with than silicone. While you have it out you can install some new closet bolts and you'll be good to go for another 30 years. You should probably replace the rubber washer at the water supply connection as well.

We're going to Yellowstone in early July and then heading to Glacier. My Dad knows someone who works at the Washougal outlet store and next week him and I are making a trip down and he is going to surprise my wife with Pendleton Yellowstone and Glacier National Park blankets for our trip. Sometimes when he does things like this it almost makes him tolerable.

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Old 06-12-2012, 09:52 PM   #55
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This is why I love the forum. It allows me to post a question that I really already know the answer to, but don't want to hear, and then wait to hear it, explained logically and simply, by people who are more confident and experienced. Thank you, experienced and confident comrades!

Otherwise it's just me and the errant spider alone in a trailer, eyeing a toilet as if it just landed from Mars, as if lasers and voodoo will be required to remove it. So yes, I'll be removing the toilet like a sensible person.

Now for full disclosure: when I bought the trailer, the PO hooked up all of the systems and walked me through them before we left his property in Boring, OR. This was very helpful, and the plumbing did not seem to have any issues or leaks etc.

Since then, however, the water has not been hooked up at all. I had it brought to my current location in Silverton, so I could start work on it as quickly as possible, but I don't have the means of hooking up the water/sewer until the end of next week, when the trailer and I will move back to Portland, saying a last goodbye to the rental house I've been staying in. (P.S. if you really care about the circumstances, and my scheme in general, you can read my first thread).

My point is that I think I should probably wait until then to take the toilet out, so I can hook it back up first, and do all of the flushing and practice dumping and look for other problems that, if exist, should be fixed while I'm taking the toilet off. Do I have a question? Maybe not, I'm pretty sure I'm just thinking aloud.

Gene, you have got me rethinking the Cabot now. I had originally thought about using the Rot Doctor CPES epoxy, but I had decided against it because it just seemed a little caustic and intimidating (uh, and pricey), but then vintage trailer restoration is not for the faint of heart. So I think your spar urethane is a happy medium.

Dan, you lucky dog. Enjoy those blankets!

P.S. I finally defeated the rest of the tack strips tonight. Three more days of teaching and Monday to get the grades entered and I am home free. Then I am to shock and wow you with my productivity... if I can keep the margaritas under control.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:42 AM   #56
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CarrieSue, on another note besides toilets, You might look at some Eames accessories. They made every thing from chairs (with Hermen Miller) to wall hangings and lamps. They had an arcitectual firm in LA and branched out from there. A husband and wife team. I've been looking for one of their Atomic Starburst Wall Clocks since I got my trailer. They're still affordable (except for some of the Herman Miller chairs) and quite eclectic. I recently fond two of their floor lamps at a garage sale for ten bucks a piece.

Bucky(Buckminster) Fuller an arcitect also did some nice work. I'm not sure how available or affordable it is though. I met him and Stewart Brand one time in Palo Alto in the late 70's. He was very old then and still promoting the dome structures he had designed for home building. An interesting man and very gracious.

Pendleton has a Beaver State collection that changes from time to time. The selection is large and sometimes you can pick them up on e-bay for 30 or 40 bucks.

Dan

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