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11-30-2012, 03:52 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arkansas
, Arkansas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
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Excited new member
Hello everyone,
I just picked up my first Airstream ! It's a 73' Excella 500. I picked it up from a guy who had let it sit in an open field for 3+ years. nearly every window leaks and the floor has rotted in my spots(Likely need a full replacement floor). The body appears straight and both the 12v and 110 systems tested positive. The Zip-dee is in mint condition(I'm not sure it had ever been extended). The plumbing appears altered to fit more of a stationary, full-time, tenant. Anyway, I'd eager to begin communication with you guys. Let me know what you think.
Tommy
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11-30-2012, 04:08 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHogHeaven
Hello everyone,
I just picked up my first Airstream ! It's a 73' Excella 500. I picked it up from a guy who had let it sit in an open field for 3+ years. nearly every window leaks and the floor has rotted in my spots(Likely need a full replacement floor). The body appears straight and both the 12v and 110 systems tested positive. The Zip-dee is in mint condition(I'm not sure it had ever been extended). The plumbing appears altered to fit more of a stationary, full-time, tenant. Anyway, I'd eager to begin communication with you guys. Let me know what you think.
Tommy
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Looks great.
The first big job is to make the coach waterproof.
All the exterior gaskets will need replacing especially the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, which only last 2 to 3 years.
Torsion axles, under load must be exercised somewhat frequently. Sitting long term causes the rubber rods to fail. Your photo's clearly show that.
You can easily check the axles out by reading the following article.
The Dura-Torque Axle
Sealing the vinyl gasket on the wing, stack and vista view windows, is another must. You can use gray Sikaflex sealer for that job.
Andy
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11-30-2012, 04:12 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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It looks great. Start by sealing it up...stop the leaks to the max possible. As you do that you will be on a voyage of discovery.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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11-30-2012, 06:23 PM
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#4
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1 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arkansas
, Arkansas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
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Thank you guys. Yes Andy, I'm going to be in contact with ya'll tomorrow to order those 'D' gaskets, and anything else i may need to seal up those windows and roof.
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12-01-2012, 01:38 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2010 27' FB Flying Cloud
Fraser Valley
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,966
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Looks pretty good.
I don't understand how people just let them rot in a field somewhere.
__________________
easily distracted by shiny objects
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12-03-2012, 08:23 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
2012 27' FB International
Denver
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 445
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Wow!! Congrats!!! And good luck with your reno's!!
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12-03-2012, 08:49 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,743
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From the photos it looks like a good possibility the axles are shot. This model/year is also prone to rear end separation. There are more threads than you could ever read on these subjects.
Replacing the floor is a major undertaking. If the rot is not too extensive you may be able to just replace the rotten sections. Again, there is plenty of threads on the subject.
I know what your enthusiasm feels like. Anyone who has done a resto has been there. But make sure you know what you are getting into as far as time and money. A lot more of each than you would think. Anyone who has done a resto will tell you the same.
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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12-08-2012, 03:26 PM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arkansas
, Arkansas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
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So I've taken out all my hinged windows and am attempting to reseal them. I just received my 'D' gaskets and 3m gasket adhesive in the mail. Ive got a little more cleaning to do but am almost ready and now i've lost my understanding of the procedure. Am I to use the 3m between the window and new gasket or is the 3m adhesive used solely between the new gaskets and window frame on non-opening windows? It seems to me that on my hinged windows I should just be using the gasket and the self-adhesive it's got under the peel-off flat edge.
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12-08-2012, 04:57 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHogHeaven
So I've taken out all my hinged windows and am attempting to reseal them. I just received my 'D' gaskets and 3m gasket adhesive in the mail. Ive got a little more cleaning to do but am almost ready and now i've lost my understanding of the procedure. Am I to use the 3m between the window and new gasket or is the 3m adhesive used solely between the new gaskets and window frame on non-opening windows? It seems to me that on my hinged windows I should just be using the gasket and the self-adhesive it's got under the peel-off flat edge.
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Aloha.
The adhesive is applied to both the white backing of the gasket and the back side of the window sash (metal framing).
Then wait about 5 minutes and apply the gasket to the window. Start at the bottom center.
Do not cut it for the corners on the front window.
Mahalo.
Andy
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