Boy Do I have a lot to learn!

[Dieselgrin]

I'm new to the forum and new to AS. I have had many different types of campers over these years, but this is my first AS. Bought a 73 Sovereign last week off Craig's List and my education has begun. I tried to get some info before going to look at the trailer, but this place is filled to the brim. I had to go with my gut feeling on many things and now I question my decision.

There are some oddities that maybe ya'll can help me with. The gas water heater was removed and an electric house type was installed. Seems it would have to be drained each road trip. Tank looks like about 15 gallons.

I don't see a grey water tank on the trailer. Probably didn't have one at that year. I don't know if I'm happy with that concept yet. Would require full hook ups or a blue tote to used the camper. The copper has been replaced with plastic, but I have no idea how the by pass works for winterizing, where the water tank drain is located, or how to drain the system.

I have not found an inverter yet. The battery might not be good enough to hold a charge, but when plugged into shore power, it does not seem to be charging. Seems to be a slight drain on the unplugged trailer.

The gas heater has been removed. Ceramic heaters work most of the time, but I would like to be able to winter camp here in VA. Unsure of how to rig the trailer for hat yet.

I can't get the Magic Chef oven to light. I don't know if it has a gas valve or not. The range does and I have 3 of the 4 burners working. the entire eye is missing from one.

I'm working on the overhead lights now. How many bulbs can go into such a fixture? And how do you keep the battery charged with so many bulbs burning?

It's raining now and I discovered a leak in the center ceiling at the rear bath. Possibly at the vent. Can I get on the roof?

Other than these small issues, all is fine. I'm going to take her to Cheatham Annex Friday night. Looking forward to a long relationship with AS. Hope it's this one.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. There's so much here, it's sometime difficult to determine where to begin.

Don't forget Nov 4th... "vote early and vote often."

[gnored]

Gee. You sound like an expert compared to me. I don't even know what questions to ask, but I sure like your list.

[cameront120]

Welcome to the forums. I'll answer what I can. I'd remove the electric water heater and replace it with a 10 gallon Atwood. You can get a variety of models from simple pilot light versions to those that run on both propane and 110VAC with electric start (I have a 6 gallon version of the latter and love it). They aren't very expensive and are pretty easy to install.

Grey water tanks didn't start until the 1974 model years, but you can retrofit.

I'm not well versed in electrical systems, so I'll leave those questions to somebody more knowledgeable than me.

Are the ducts still in place for the original heating system? You can get a new Suburban furnace for your trailer and will find several threads on the topic in the appropriate sub-forum.

The oven may need to have the pilot light cleaned or replaced. Can you determine if gas is reaching it? As for parts to the stove, you may be able to find something in the forum classifieds if you watch for trailers being parted out. Or, you could replace the unit with something new. The range and oven in my '72 still works beautifully, so if you can get yours working, it might be worth it.

Theleak in the roof may be coming from deteriorated gaskets at the plumbing vents (those cast aluminum numbers). You can get replacements from Inland RV.

You can walk on the roof, but stay on the ribs and don't walk on the end caps.

I hope this helps.

[Lumatic]

1. I don't know why you would have to drain the hot water heater after each use. More details would help
2. Reader's Digest winterizing: if you put in a hot water tank bypass you need 3 gal of rv antifreeze without it you will need more than 5. Here's how I do it without the bypass on 3
a. get a hand pump and pump antifreeze from all hot water faucets (tub and 2 sinks until it enters the hot water tank. Drain off and reuse the antifreeze from the hot water tank and use the 12v water pump to pump this antifreeze until it comes out of kitchen, bathroom and tub cold faucets and also toilet. Pour a little antifreeze in the sink traps.
3. Your inverter is called a univolt and is located in the rear curbside. Plug in to shore power and follow the hum.
4. 4 bulbs in each ceiling light
5. A lot of people walk on the roof, even without worrying about the ribs. I use planks. Ditto on stay off the end caps at all cost.

[Dieselgrin]

thanks for the assist. Amazing that folks have 1300 - 1500 post to a forum. That's a lot of history and knowledge.

I'm concerned about the weight of theHWH for travel. Since I can't see under the trailer because of enclosure, I'm not sure of the floor bracing and capability to handle 160#s bouncing at the end of the trailer. re routing the H20 wouldn'tbe a problem for a gas replacement. I don't know where the gas feed is caped off. The household HWH is wired for 110. Re-wiring to come off a panel block makes me scratch my head.

I don't hear the hum of an inverter. I assume it went in the curb closet next to the fuse panel. I don't see where it would have hung. Maybe an owner's manual will tell me where it was suppose to be.

I'll check tonight on the oven chut off valve. I don't know if it's getting gas or not. Any suggestions on how to check?

Re-plumbing for a forced air heater may be an option. The duct work is still in place. I don't see but one register by the door. Did the new carpet cover floor vents in the bed and rear bath?

Looks like the glass gaskets have been removed on the front skylights. There is a large putty filler on the outside of the glass. This is probably where that small leak is coming from.

I'm very interested in a grey water retro fit. How do I find threads on that? I'll have to experiment with the valves to see what turns what water lines on and off. Can I travel with a full tank of fresh water? Again, seems heavy.

Tanks!

[funkill]

Hi Dieselgrin --- I too just bought a “vintage” AS and had a similar experience as you… i.e. went with my gut and now question my decision. And I continue to find new reasons to bang my head on the wall due to my lack of examination, inspection, inquiry or whatever. But I’m building a good relationship with her and learning lots.

After a bit of inspection, I couldn't locate my Univolt system. Jim posted a picture of his and it helped me a lo. Well, it helped me determine that mine had been removed by a PO and replaced with a standard charger. Oh well. I see that there are various newer models that I will plan to install over the holidays. See pic at post #10 of this thread to see what the Univolt looks like:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...tem-45243.html

Also, my dump pipe (?) at my trailer is a Thetford fitting while the blueboy is Valtera – so I need an adapter. Until then, I have a rather primitive set-up in place. Ugly, but it works. Yours may need the adapter too…

Cheers!

[Dan@LED4RV]

Originally Posted by Dieselgrin

Can I get on the roof?

Yes you can.

Click here to see how to keep from damaging your unit.

Dan

[Dan@LED4RV]

Originally Posted by Dieselgrin

I'm working on the overhead lights now. How many bulbs can go into such a fixture? And how do you keep the battery charged with so many bulbs burning?

You will just have to test and see how long they will burn.
It is most likely that your switches are bad, or close to being bad. You will begin to see the backs of them get black from heat.

Here is a link to those switches.


Here is a link to Gen. info. on the lights and switches.

Dan

[overlander63]

The Univolt should have an on/off switch, probably located inside the bathroom vanity mirror over the sink. Right side, as you are looking in the mirror. If it doesn't hum, it either may not be working, is turned off, or has been replaced with a more modern unit that doesn't go HUMM in the night.

[easyride]

Univolt on my 73 Overlander was under fuses,but stuck back under tub. 1156 bulbs will work in overhead lights{BUT SHOULD NOT BE USED} they put off too much heat,my trailer is not at home so I can`t give you #,RV place should be able to tell you.Dave

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by easyride

Univolt on my 73 Overlander was under fuses,but stuck back under tub. 1156 bulbs will work in overhead lights{BUT SHOULD NOT BE USED} they put off too much heat,my trailer is not at home so I can`t give you #,RV place should be able to tell you.Dave

The bulb number should be #1141.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Dieselgrin

Looks like the glass gaskets have been removed on the front skylights. There is a large putty filler on the outside of the glass. This is probably where that small leak is coming from.

I'm very interested in a grey water retro fit. How do I find threads on that? I'll have to experiment with the valves to see what turns what water lines on and off. Can I travel with a full tank of fresh water? Again, seems heavy.

Tanks!

We can help you with many parts.

Our web site is a sale list only.

We carry over 3300 different Airstream parts is stock.

Inland RV Center - The Nations Leading Expert in Airstream Innovations

Andy

[Phil and/or Sue]

Originally Posted by Dieselgrin

I'm new to the forum and new to AS. ... Bought a 73 Sovereign last week off Craig's List and my education has begun.
...
I don't see a grey water tank on the trailer. Probably didn't have one at that year.
...
I have not found an inverter yet. The battery might not be good enough to hold a charge, but when plugged into shore power, it does not seem to be charging. Seems to be a slight drain on the unplugged trailer.

The gas heater has been removed. Ceramic heaters work most of the time, but I would like to be able to winter camp here in VA. Unsure of how to rig the trailer for hat yet.
...
I'm working on the overhead lights now. How many bulbs can go into such a fixture? And how do you keep the battery charged with so many bulbs burning?
...
Any help would be greatly appreciated. There's so much here, it's sometime difficult to determine where to begin.
...

Welcome to the Forums, and welcome to Vintage Airstreaming.

I also have a '73 Sovereign (31' center bath) which is a project for me to work on in my spare time. I don't know what configuration and length you have, but I assume it's a 31'.

Here are several pics, one showing the area of the oven with wires sticking out, and another showing those wires and the Univolt behind them. The other shows the Univolt and original furnace after I've removed the countertop, range and other stuff. It's all empty now, and I was occasionally working on clearing out the bottom because a joist is broken underneath that area.

When I am ready to re-assemble (in the year 2525 probably), I am looking at getting a Progressive Dynamics 45 amp converter/smart charger.

You're right about the gray tank. None from the factory until 1974 I think. I am planning to re-plumb the drains and add a gray water tank.

Good luck, have fun, stay dry and warm without melting anything.

Phil

(added on edit: Please post pics when you can! We all love pics.)

[3 Dog Nite]

We have a Magic Chef oven in our MH. It takes a while for the low flow of gas to reach the pilot light area. After turning the knob to pilot, I have to count to 22 slowly before bending over to apply flame. I learned this by timing how long it took between knob turning & actual flame ignition at pilot. Try this. The oven won't light right away after lighting the pilot. This is a safety feature caused by the thermocoupler on the gas valve. If testing for the 1st time, be sure to open a lot of windows for ventilation. Wait about 2-3 minutes before turning the oven on. This should be enough time for the thermocoulper to do it's thing. When done using the oven, just turn the knob to pilot. This will allow the oven to ignite quicker for the next use. Only turn the knob to off when you're packing up to go home or to your next stop.

[3 Dog Nite]

The pilot may light but the oven won't after 10 minutes. Change the thermocoupler before going further. The thermocoupler is a little silver device whose tip is near the pilot flame. It has a long thin silver line that goes to the gas valve. It can be easily changed. Be sure to note how far it extends out at the pilot before removing. I mark it with a thin marker, then transfer the mark to the new thermocoupler. If you install the new one too far away, It won't get hot enough to tell the gas valve it's OK to turn on. If you install it too far into the flame, it's useful life will be shortened. Remove the old one & take it to any hardware store. They come in a variety of lengths. Get 1 too long & it will take longer than usual to light the pilot. Get 1 too short & it won't work at all.

[Dieselgrin]

Well, I've looked and looked for the inverter and don't see it nor hear a hum (except 56 years of ringing in my ears). I pull the battery and get it tested. It seems to drain way too fast. I have a truck camper and put a whopper of a isolation switch on it. I'll do the same here to keep the battery from draining.

Still no luck on lighting the oven. the as line is hooked up and I don't see a cut off like on the stove top. The cut off is under the cowling, like you could get to it to turn off the gas if it were on fire. I may try to clean the pilot assembly or just replace it. I cant see a reason why the gas is not getting to the pilot.

I saw that the ceiling light lens can be replace for $15 each. Current ones are pretty brownish. White lens would make a smart difference.

I got an adapter for the sewer outfall. May get one with a hose connector to drain the grey water into a blue tote rather than use the 4 inch discharge hose.

I'll contemplate the HWH exchange back to gas/electric. Same with the heater. Wouldn't be too difficult to put a heater in, but I don't see the registers in the bedroom or bath. Are they in the floor? May be covered with carpet.

We plan on a maiden voyage Friday night. Can't wait to find out what I've missed in preparation.

How do you post pics?

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Dieselgrin

I'll contemplate the HWH exchange back to gas/electric. Same with the heater. Wouldn't be too difficult to put a heater in, but I don't see the registers in the bedroom or bath. Are they in the floor? May be covered with carpet.



How do you post pics?

The register for the rear furnace duct should be along the base of the bathtub, near the bulkhead between the tub and wardrobe, probably covered by carpeting. The front one should just kind of dump out under the front of the kitchen counter, also at the floor.
To post a picture, below the upper "submit reply", you will find a button marked "manage attachments". Click that, click "attach files", then choose the file you want to upload. Click "upload files", and when the window says it is done uploading, click "close window", then "submit reply".

[cameront120]

Originally Posted by Dieselgrin

I got an adapter for the sewer outfall. May get one with a hose connector to drain the grey water into a blue tote rather than use the 4 inch discharge hose.

If I may make a suggestion here, use a 5/8" hose rather than 1/2". I found that the 1/2" hose got easily clogged and caused the grey water to back up through the floor drain of my rear wet bath. You could have the same thing happen only in yout tub. I switched to the 5/8" hose and have not had the same problem ever.

[Tarheel]

Diesel would like to invite you to one of the Tidewater rallys, we have lots of members close to you and they would be happy to give you a lot of pointers. Our next rally is November 7-9 in Norge, VA drop a message to me if you are interested.
Rick Bell

[Dieselgrin]

Well, I couldn't get the oven to light. I don't see a shut off valve in line anywhere. I may have to remove the pilot and clean or replace.

I hven't found the inverter and I don't hear a hum. It may have been removed. I'm going to have the battery checked. It seems to be draining too quickly. The overhead light work fine when the battery is up, but quickly draw it down. I can keep a battery charger hooked up and trikle charge the battery.

I'll have to consider replacing the hot water heater and installing a furnace. Would cost about $700 to do both my self. I don't see the heat registers except one by the front door. If there are others, they may be under the carpet. Does anyone know?

I'm still looking for a grey water tank retro fit. Any idea where the links are? Thanks for everyone's help! It's a blessing!