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Old 03-25-2015, 02:23 PM   #29
Hazel Bambi II
 
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1964 17' Bambi II
Tsawwassen , British Columbia
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Question for floor replacement

Did you guys use 1 5/8 width on aluminum channelling when remaking it? That's what mine is but it's tight.
Dropped off old channelling to have new made. 200 bucks. Yikes.
I've seen various floor bring used. Did you use 5/8 plywood for floor?
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:08 PM   #30
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We used 3/4" Advantech flooring. Many people use 5/8" fir plywood. There are many camps on this issue.....but I've had a piece of Advantech out in the weather for the last two years & it's just fine....not falling apart at all. If my trailer leaks more than the sky does, then I'm in big trouble!:-)

I'm not sure what aluminum channeling your referring to.....
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:52 PM   #31
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Calm down and relax you will do great until you get to the curves the sides are pretty straight and it sounds like you have help so take it one step at a time if you have a source of cheap 1/2 inch plywood to use for a template lay the wood out on the frame only need the scrap for the front and back curves use the 5/8 or 3/4 inch for the rest. Make sure you have the edge of the curve piece on a support (frame). If you can lower the shell to the point that you can line up the sides and the hold down plate in the front (shel just touching the floor mark raise the shell and cut) then lower and check the fit. Hope that this helps.
Cliff
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:04 PM   #32
Hazel Bambi II
 
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Thanks Everyone

Thanks Cliff, Becki and PA. Cut my templates and will drop the shell on tomorrow. I had the new c channel cut and am ready to go. Does everyone that go plywood epoxy the sides? I was going to cover it in garage floor paint as it is epoxy based.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:49 AM   #33
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So long as the can specifically says you can use it on wood, I don't see why the garage floor paint wouldn't work. If it doesn't, I might go with something else (we used a a sealing wood oil and then several coats of floor varnish, but there's lots of ideas on here, from fiberglass to Thompson's water seal). Just remember to coat the inside of the holes you drill for the tie down bolts, too, otherwise you'll still be exposing bare wood to moisture.

If you're looking for a small, easy to install bathroom alternative, you might look into composting toilets such as Air Head. No need for a black tank or plumbing and very compact. The Wynns have a good overview video on YouTube.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:17 AM   #34
Hazel Bambi II
 
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Thanks for the floor and toilet advice....so many dilema's on so many small issues. Someone should write a manual for rebuilding these things...I'd buy one. But the forum is great..so many people willing to help
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Old 03-27-2015, 12:48 PM   #35
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I called airhead today. Sound great, but 1,000 us which is about 1300 can. Yikes! If anyone hears of someone selling one let me know.
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Originally Posted by calais66 View Post
So long as the can specifically says you can use it on wood, I don't see why the garage floor paint wouldn't work. If it doesn't, I might go with something else (we used a a sealing wood oil and then several coats of floor varnish, but there's lots of ideas on here, from fiberglass to Thompson's water seal). Just remember to coat the inside of the holes you drill for the tie down bolts, too, otherwise you'll still be exposing bare wood to moisture.

If you're looking for a small, easy to install bathroom alternative, you might look into composting toilets such as Air Head. No need for a black tank or plumbing and very compact. The Wynns have a good overview video on YouTube.
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Old 03-27-2015, 04:31 PM   #36
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Yeah, they're pricy, no doubt. But when you add up the cost of a new conventional system (toilet, black tank, dump valves/ pump, etc.) it makes it slightly more reasonable.

Of course, there's also the route the PO of my trailer took--cut a hole thru the floor and belly pan direct to the ground--yuck!
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