A Nervous New Member

[geomusic]

Hello. I'm new to RVing and contemplating buying a 33-ft 2000 Land Yacht. It appears to be in very good condition but it has a very long extension behind the rear wheels. I've been reading about concerns on structural integrity of some of the A rigs. Is this one of them?

Does anyone know anything about this particular model? Is it a good RV?

Would it be better to get the 30-foot?

Also, it has the "workhorse engine." What can I expect on mileage?

I like the quality that (I think) I see in this RV. Any suggestions?

Thanks. Nervous George

[moosetags]

Welcome Nervous George! You'll find a bunch of experienced advise and guidance here. I'm sorry, but I'm a trailer guy and can't help you much on the mohos. I'm sure that the knowing people will chime-in and give you the scoup.

[Janet H]

Originally Posted by geomusic

Hello. I'm new to RVing and contemplating buying a 33-ft 2000 Land Yacht. It appears to be in very good condition but it has a very long extension behind the rear wheels. I've been reading about concerns on structural integrity of some of the A rigs. Is this one of them?

Does anyone know anything about this particular model? Is it a good RV?

Would it be better to get the 30-foot?

Also, it has the "workhorse engine." What can I expect on mileage?

I like the quality that (I think) I see in this RV. Any suggestions?

Thanks. Nervous George

I don't know much about motorhomes... but many of the longer trailers built in the seventies had frame issues that resulted in seperations and droopy tails. I'm not really aware of any problems since then but maybe some of our MOHO folks will step up.

BY the way... welcome to the forums.

[GlenCoombe]

Welcome, you've got a BIG start in the RV passion! Most of what I've read about rear end sag was pointed at trailers not Moho's. The LY is noted for roof and window leaks. Make sure you do a very thorough chassis check for floor rot due to leaks.
How many miles are on this rig? How does it show / smell? Do you have a qualified RV mechanic in your area who can do an inspection for you as a pre-buy?
You've got two big areas of concern with different skill sets required. RV systems and driveline mechanical. Find a good technician or two to do that pre-buy, it'll be worth the money.
When you get your coach let us see some pictures please.

[swebster]

The "Workhorse" chassis is the next generation of the Chevy P30 Chassis. It's still the 454 engine (Fuel Injected) and mileage has more to do with how you are loaded, what you are towing and how fast you drive. I get 8.5 in my older generation, carburated 454 on the P30.

I also seconds that idea that frame sag is a trailer issue not a motorhome issue. Motorhomes are on a 1" x 1" steel grrid bolted onto the chassis frame. Of course, check the rear end for signs of over towing or over weight, etc. If it has Tag Axels, check them fro alignment, bent shocks, etc.

I'm with Glen on the inspection...get one. Spending a couple of hundred for a good inspection will give you information for the purchase negotiation and possibly save you from buying a bad egg (if it's a mess).

Good luck and keep us posted.

[steelbird312]

Welcome to Airstream, and the thoughts of ownership of the 2000 LY.
Go here for an Owners manual http://www.airstream.com/airstream/p...AS%20Parts.pdf

The frame of your motorhome will not be a problem. Depending on your past experience, you may enjoy driving this chassis, you may not. It has been known to have steering characteristics that some find objectionable. Others don't. There are aftermarket kits sold to address this. Newer, better shocks are available. Depending on your right foot, the engine can give service between 50,000 and 80,000 miles. Due to the hardworking environment of a motorhome chassis, and the fact most owners stick the accelerator on the floor, demanding a great deal from these engines, they normally do not give extended service, even when maintained on short intervals. It shouldn't be looked at as a faulty or defective engine, but rather as the normal service life. It would be like putting the smallest economy engine into a large limo and expecting it to produce for 100,000 miles without a problem, all the while having the accelerator planted on the floor.
As stated before, you have 2 distinct systems here that you, the owner, must keep up with. The RV, and the chassis. Tires normally will be changed as a result of a)failure due to lack of air pressure, or b) getting old and degrading. Very few MH's use up the tread. Brakes last close to the lifetime of the unit, unless you drive with your foot on the brake. MPG's will be 6 to 7.
Battery knowledge is almost imperitive. If you don't educate yourself on them, expect to buy new ones often. If you do educate yourself, plan on monthly maintenance, however, that takes very little time.
If your unit has a convection oven in it, do not drive with the rotating dish inside. If you do, expect to spend $75 for a new one!
Transmission coolers are the saving grace for this chassis. If it doesn't have one on it, install a LARGE one immediately. If it has a small one, install a LARGE one immediately. Nominal cost, huge benefits.
I'm not trying to scare you away, as I drive a MH as well. It's just too many people don't know or have never had anyone tell them the pro's and cons.
Good luck on your future purchase!