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10-06-2017, 10:20 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2005 30' Classic
Lindsay
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 7
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2005 30' Classic Owner wants advice on Black Water Tank Issue
Hi all. I'm an Ontario Canada resident new to the Forum, original owner of a 2005 30' Classic with a black water tank valve issue. The valve handle movement has always been extremely stiff no matter what products I used. One bad outcome: the valve handle broke 8 years ago and was then welded back on with an additional rigid elbow for added strength. That worked until recently (still with a very stiff movement) when the handle suddenly would not retract completely, leaving the tank partly open. I have flushed the tank repeatedly with hot soapy water without success. I have limited skills and am considering having the entire black water tank (and valve) replaced by an Airstream outlet. Two questions: (1) what is that likely to cost? .. and ..(2) should I pursue a different option? I'll appreciate all thoughts on this.
Ross
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10-06-2017, 10:47 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2004 28' Classic
Monument
, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,566
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I have a 2004 Classic 28 that has the same tanks as yours. I just fixed the exact same problem last month. On my AS, the black valve was very hard to operate since I purchased it two years ago. Turns out someone had replaced the valve and over-torqued the housing screws which hold it to the tank. This deformed and cracked the valve housing making it hard to operate. The best thing to do is replace it. Your post sounds like you are not inclined to do it yourself. Any RV dealer could do it for you.
If you are inclined to do it yourself, let me know and I can give you some step-by-step instructions on what to do.
Good luck! Its a fun job.
__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
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10-06-2017, 12:10 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
2000 30' Excella
Toledo
, Ohio
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 493
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Just replace the valve not the tank I did both of mine past spring not a bad job if you have the tools and don't mind laying on your back .
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10-06-2017, 12:25 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1995 25' Excella
xxxxx
, xxxxxx
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 2,351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodfox45
Just replace the valve not the tank I did both of mine past spring not a bad job if you have the tools and don't mind laying on your back .
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same here. The parts cost me about 170 bucks.
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10-06-2017, 12:45 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1994 30' Excella
alexandria
, Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,321
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I have rebuilt both valve this past year as the well as replacing the cracked adapters.
If you do it your self or a repair shop a hole can be cut in the pan and covered with a patch panel. If you do he work your self then consider rebuilding the valves. If someone else is doing the work then just get new as it is not worth the time/$$ as it would be a wash. Consider replacing the tank/valve adapter while they have this apart. These get old and brittle over time. I am sure it would take a technician 2 or 3 hours plus material cost.
__________________
Steve, Christy, Anna and Phoebe (Border Collie)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley Arrow hitch with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
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10-06-2017, 01:29 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2004 28' Classic
Monument
, Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,566
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The replacement valve was $54 (Thetford 08709 3" Toilet Dump Valve). The Valterra T1029-2 Termination Adapter was $7. The miscellaneous pipe pieces from Home Depot were $35. Three hours time at $65 per hour $195. Total cost to have someone do it around $300.
__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
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10-09-2017, 05:29 AM
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#7
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Retired
2008 30' Classic
Currently Looking...
Livingston
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 850
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Too late for this poster, but in the word to the wise department: the techs at the Jackson Center service center advised us to put a half cup of cooking oil down the toilet, followed by a pan of boiling water. Then, work the valve back and forth.
We often do our dishes in dish pans in the sink. When done, I empty them into the toilet. The soapy water as well as the additional volume helps keep the valves limber and the tank cleaner.....
__________________
Tom
AIR 71620
WBCCI 5809 Reg 9 Unit 155
2008 Classic 30'
2019 F250 4x4
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10-10-2017, 05:10 AM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
2005 30' Classic
Lindsay
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 7
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Never too late for good advice! Our trailer is in our lane-way and we're still occasionally running hot water and soap through the toilet, hoping to free the blockage preventing full shaft retraction. We also wash our dishes in a pan and empty the soapy mix into the toilet and have used a variety of other products including cooking oil over time without ever gaining a smooth rod action. One (of many) of our errors we believe has been dumping at the end of our several Rallies in the season before driving home instead of using the drive itself for good effect and then dumping at our local landfill site's dump station. Thanks to all for the rest of you for good advice. Even if we free the current blockage, were still living with a never-ending stiff system complicated by that added-on welded elbow to the broken shaft for strength .. so we'll likely use our favourite local RV outlet and have them order in and replace the whole valve system.
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