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Old 10-29-2007, 11:22 PM   #1
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1975 27' International All Original But Lights Out

Once in a while you get a really great deal. mine was a 27' international born in the same year as me: 1975. An ebay purchase, maybe a gamble, but oh what a payoff. Nearly 100% original interior, only a few tiny dents, even the running and brake lights worked. I just got it home from a 15 hours mad max run down I-95 last night. I started doing the scrub down tonight and I was as close to giddy as I have been in some time. I put power to the old girl and she came to life, everything seemed to work, interior lights, radio, exhaust fan, oven light, as I was just getting started on vaccuming out the assorted array of dust bunnies, rodent skeletons (for real), heartbreak. . . the lights went out and nothing could revive my new mistresses sparkle. Not the supply breaker, not the trailer breakers, I'm at a loss. Could the power converter have gone bad after an hour of running, is there a reset switch? I looked everywhere for salvation from my delema and nothing. I even picked all the keyless exterior compartment locks hoping to find a magical button labled "push me if your awesome airstream lights go out and won't go back on."

I'm thinking inverter, converter, any other ideas? Anyway even though she is a little dim at the moment, I am beginning to feel the early effects of aluminum dependence,

Adam Bolton- Gainesville FL
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:30 PM   #2
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Even if the converter goes out, you should still get power from the battery. It is time to get the volt meter out and start checking things. start with the battery and see what you have. Then you need to find the 12 volt distribution panel and measure there. I have a 75 Trade Wind with a rear bath. The battery is in an outside compartment, curbside, aft of the axles. The 12 panel is in a closet in the bath.

You should be able to hear the converter if it is an original univolt, follow the hum...
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:31 PM   #3
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1978 23' Safari
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do you have a working battery or is all the 12 V coming from the converter?

the obvious places to look first are 12 V fuzes (if you have the old Uni-Volt converter, on some models they are inside a door on the converter itself), dead converter, dead battery, main supply wire pulled loose in your cleaning frenzy, and if you are without battery, then you need to check 110 V circuit breaker that feeds the converter. If you think you have a battery but haven't checked it, it's probably DOA. You might put water in it to revive it temporarily.

joe
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:13 AM   #4
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I have no battery hooked up, I checked the circuit breakers, I haven't found the converter itself, but I'm not sure I would even know what it looked like. Hopefully a fuse. . .
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:34 AM   #5
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bolton2197,
Look under your gaucho.
The univolt/converter is always located closest to the battery.
It's fully enclosed in a metal box and, secured to the floor.
Hope this helps.
ciao
53FC
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:44 AM   #6
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and heavy. it's about 18" long by about 7" square in cross section and maybe 40 lbs. And as a previous post said, old Univolts generally hum loud enough that you can tell they have power.

You need to consider putting in a battery, even if it's an old one. The old converters don't have very good voltage stabilization and will output 15-17 volts if they don't have a reasonable load on them. This is enough voltage to significantly shorten the life of your light bulbs.

A lead-acid battery is always happy to provide pretty good load on the system and will keep the voltage down around 14 volts, even if it is charged up.

You're going to find that the two things that you will replace soonest is the water pump and the converter. The new converters have excellent voltage regulation and they weigh about 5 lbs. And they take up only about 1/3 the volume of the old ones.

Joe
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:47 AM   #7
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Found a fuse panel, nothing looked bad, would the converter be in a thin metal box 3" thick? under plumbing lines?
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:55 AM   #8
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bolton2197,
I think you're at the point where you need to grab ahold of a volt/ohm meter and start checking your voltage out.
Plus, fuse might "look" good but, in fact can be open.
averagejoe is right,
you should pick up a battery.
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:11 AM   #9
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I can't really be of much help but to offer moral support...and assure you that you will soon find the solution and then you'll know what to tell other when they come up with the same problem. (That's the way it seems to work!) Hang in there, keep breathing and be persistent...you're doing great!

What prompted me to post (beyond offering moral support) is the fact that within an hour and a half of hollering for assistance, 7 forum member responses have come your way...all with good and encouraging information to share...

What a great forum!
TB
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:13 AM   #10
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hi- It sounds like you do not have an owners manual, which would be of help in locating things. Better yet is the repair/shop manual, both of these can be found on ebay or maybe through this forum. When you find the converter/fuse panel, take every fuse out, inspect it carefully, clean the contact ends, and the contact clips. There should be a couple big fuses, 50 amp or so- one of these might be the culprit. Good luck, I know the frustration of your situation- but you will eventually find the problem. -tim
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:40 AM   #11
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You have a new trailer.....

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Old 10-30-2007, 08:59 PM   #12
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Still no luck

I have tried in vain to find the source of my problem, I connected a battery, checked every fuse, every connection, checked the breaker panel, I can hear the voltage converter, it is the original univolt. When connected to 120 power the AC works and the interior outlets work, but nothing on 12 volt. I am not sure what to try next, other than drag it down to my local rv dealer that hurts even talking about it. Any other ideas? Should I replace the converter???
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:01 PM   #13
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You need to get a voltmeter and start checking for 12VDC. Actually, it will read much higher..Simple place to start with it is at one of the cig lighter outlets..DO you have 13.+VDC?? You may have the battery installed but is the switch thrown??..Look near the battery compartment on the inside for the "kill switch"..It's used to disconnect the battery for long term storage/ or, read that to be, when not in use..
if you don't have a owner/maint. manuals, call JC tomorrow and order one..You will always have a need for it.
Good luck~
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Old 11-01-2007, 10:12 PM   #14
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I have searched high and low and I can't find the mystery "kill switch for my battery" does anyone have a 1975 owners manual that can look up its location in a 27' international? I have 12V at my fuse panel, I have ruled out any problem with the main 120V circuit breakers, converter is still suspect or "kill switch" if I can ever find the thing.

Any suggestions would be great.
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