Slide Out Society Owners Registry

[booma]

Gary,
I believe I may have mistakenly unsubscribed from the SOS.
IS there any way to get an expanded membership roster ( or at least one these old eyes can actually read)?
Thanks.
Happy Holidays

[GCinSC2]

Booma

See if post 914 helps. The list was just updated.

Gary

[booma]

Gary,
Sorry, still cannot make it out.
Not sure if it is just me or if anyone else has the same issue.
It may be that all I have is an iPad.
Thanks,
Scotty

[STREMN]

S/OS Member List -

Originally Posted by booma

Gary,
Sorry, still cannot make it out.
Not sure if it is just me or if anyone else has the same issue.
It may be that all I have is an iPad.
Thanks,
Scotty

Hi Scotty - In our last update of the list we increased the number of rows available to post on. The list as we see it on the forum is a .jpg photo that gets scaled down to display as a thumbnail.

Tapping or clicking on the thumbnail opens it into a larger screen format. For detailed viewing: Use pinch and stretch gestures on the image with index finger and thumb...that should magnify and expand the image as it's displayed on screen.

Tom - S/OS #025

[STREMN]

Member List Updated Format -

I found an iPad to view the forum and thumbnails to better understand Scotty's request. The iPad screen resolution to view the expanded thumbnail wasn't enough to clearly read the list.

I reformatted the list to a PDF document to fix the resolution issue for iPad. Surprisingly Android Phone and Windows Desktop didn't have the same resolution issue.

I'll explore other options if the PDF format ends up being too cumbersome.

Tom - S/OS #025

Slide Out Society List.pdf

[GCinSC2]

Data Officer Tom to the rescue.

Thanks

[STREMN]

Member List Format

I changed up the member list and split it into a couple of pages. Pretty cool that there are so many Sliders on board. I'm trying this again with JPG's of each page for simpler "at a glance" reference.

Tom - S/OS #025

[Al and Missy]

The black tank dump linkage, among other things, was damaged when I had a tire tread separation. 10 weeks at a dealer repeatedly asking them to make sure it was functional after repair and it doesn’t close the valve all the way but the linkage is out of travel at the handle support bracket. If I back the handle out the rod end pushes past the bracket.

If you have a Classic 30 slideout please send me pictures of your black tank dump handle linkage to the dump valve.

[GCinSC2]

Al,

Pic of both valves and stem extensions from my 2007. Is that what you're looking for?

Gary

[Al and Missy]

Looks exactly like mine. I’m thinking about replacing at least the black tank link with the Camco cable system or even the electric actuator. What did you do?

[GCinSC2]

Al,

It does have a bind quality on a rough day. Never messed with ether alternatives. Sometimes I have double handed the valve, one on handle, one where extension attaches to valve stem.


Gary

[Al and Missy]

Water compartment, that is. I either needed to pull and refurbish it or replace it. I had been looking for the stainless replacement for a year or more and finally found one. Since they couldn’t get my damaged door replaced after waiting 10 weeks I packed up and came home. If they had put the door on I would have had to pull it to replace the compartment. So now I’ll be ready if the door ever comes. .

[GCinSC2]

Al,

Didn't know it was a bolted in unit. Make sure you lock it in lest an envious Classic owner spots it. Looks nice.

Gary

[stanp001]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Al,

Didn't know it was a bolted in unit. Make sure you lock it in lest an envious Classic owner spots it. Looks nice.

Gary

Al,

An tips or tricks to the replacement that you can share? I have one I need to do for my non-slideout trailer. My slide out trailer will eventually need the replacement as well.

Thanks,

Stan

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by stanp001

Al,

An tips or tricks to the replacement that you can share? I have one I need to do for my non-slideout trailer. My slide out trailer will eventually need the replacement as well.

Thanks,

Stan

Hi Stan,

Generally speaking, it was easier than I thought, at least after I found the stainless unit. I have been looking for over a year. Airstream has/had the "right side" (city water hookup and water faucet on the right end) unit in stock, but not the left.

You have to remove the water compartment door, then take out the rear and front screws and the screws holding the black tank flush inlet sub-panel, all of which are in the removable partition in the middle of the compartment and remove it. This will give you access to unscrew the hose-bib-type fittings on the rear of the city water inlet and the hose bib. Then you remove the screws at each end and the rear of the compartment and you can pull it down and out.

There are a couple of potential "gotchas" with the stainless unit. The screw holes at the bottom rear for the partition and the one at the right rear weren't there and there was a hole at the rear of the right end in the stainless unit that wasn't in the original. I drilled the compartment for the screw to hold the partition and drilled the trailer at the rear of the right end panel to match the hole in the new compartment. I just realized that the holes to mount the compartment door may not be there in the stainless version (I'll have to look to be sure) and would be a lot easier to drill with the compartment out. I'll have to wait until I get a replacement door to match drill to mount it.

There is one problem I haven't solved yet. Garden variety stainless sheet metal screws will not start in the stainless compartment. The stainless sheet metal is harder than the screw and just wears away the threads on the screw. A friend who is a machinist suggested just using pop rivets but I don't think that is a good idea for the plastic city water inlet, and there may not be access for the rear of the partition. Harder screws made of 410 stainless are available. I'll try to round up some and see if they will work. I may put in "Rivetnuts" for the city water inlet and the partition if the 410 screws don't work out.

This "RVing" is fun.....

Al

[stanp001]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Hi Stan,

Generally speaking, it was easier than I thought...

Al

Al,

Thanks for the detailed reply. This will be very helpful when I get to this project.


Stan

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by stanp001

Al,

Thanks for the detailed reply. This will be very helpful when I get to this project.


Stan

On finishing up, I have a clarification and a couple more tips.

Tip 1. Match drill the compartment front to take the pop rivets for the door. I did’t do this. It is much harder to do after the compartment is mounted.

Clarification:
What I described as “garden variety sheet metal screws” were not. I tried to re-use the screws Airstream used to mount the city water inlet, the hose bib, and the partition. They were self-drilling screws and apparently the threads were not as tall as a standard sheet metal screw and wouldn’t bite in the stainless. In desperation I bought some standard sheet metal screws at HD. They worked.

Tip 2:
To mount the black flush inlet, I did the following:
0. Before mounting everything, leak test the city water inlet under pressure.
1. Loop some string around the black tank flush fitting behind the flange and route it out the front.
2. Slant the rear of the partition into the compartment with the plumbing.
3. Guide the black tank flush inlet fitting into its hole in the partition.
4. Maneuver the partition roughly into position.
5. Use an ice pick to align the rear mounting hole in the black tank flush sub-panel with the hole in the partition.
6. Pull out and up or down on the string as required to align the front mounting hole of the black tank flush mounting flange with the hole in the partition and secure the two with a screw.
7. Pull the ice pick and put in a mounting screw.
8. Align the hole in the rear of the partition with the hole in the rear of the water compartment and screw it in place.
9. Pull the string out.
10. Maneuver the partition into position and secure the front with two screws.

Congratulations- you just saved $350, which is what I was quoted for a dealer to do the job.

[Al and Missy]

Here’s the end product (minus the AWOL door).

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Al,

Pic of both valves and stem extensions from my 2007. Is that what you're looking for?

Gary

Gary,
How is it your valves were out? Did you replace them? Did you replace the black extension? If so where did you get it? Did you bend it?

Thanks,
Al

[GCinSC2]

Al,

One of my valves was weeping from a damaged blade/seal. As I was going in I did R&R both valves.

The Z bend in the black tank extension valve is stock, as issued. If you're having difficulty finding one I think I know where some are.

Gary