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AirHedz · 05-29-2011, 08:43 PM

We have a '10 31 Classic. Needless to say, the first year has been very "challenging", to say the least. But, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to close the door. From the outside it's not as bad since I tip the scales at close to 300 lbs.. I just lean on it. But, from the inside, I haven't figured out how to close it without slamming it. With the amount of force it takes to close it completely it seems like something is going to break sooner or later.

Does anybody have any suggestion?

I looked to see if there was some sort of adjustment, but didn't see anything.

Thanks for your help!

thecatsandi · 05-29-2011, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirHedz

We have a '10 31 Classic. Needless to say, the first year has been very "challenging", to say the least. But, one thing I have yet to figure out is how to close the door. From the outside it's not as bad since I tip the scales at close to 300 lbs.. I just lean on it. But, from the inside, I haven't figured out how to close it without slamming it. With the amount of force it takes to close it completely it seems like something is going to break sooner or later.

Does anybody have any suggestion?

I looked to see if there was some sort of adjustment, but didn't see anything.

Thanks for your help!

It needs adjustment. The bolt coming out of the frame can be loosened. It has a rivet that holds the nut plate in place. It is hard to explain.

AirHedz · 05-29-2011, 09:00 PM

I removed the bolt. There is no adjustment. It screws in and ou.t That's it. Seems like it should move toward the outside of the trailer, but it doesn't move that way.

richinny · 05-29-2011, 09:11 PM

does it close better before you put the stabilizers down?

AirHedz · 05-29-2011, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richinny

does it close better before you put the stabilizers down?

No. It is the same either way. It's been a constant issue since it was new.

We have kept it in the same few places for the past year. All are concrete pads that are very level.

I really think the bolt just neefs to be adjusted. But, I can't get it to budge.

MrUKToad · 05-29-2011, 09:45 PM

There's a nice fat rubber seal all around the door and it needs to be compressed a little in order for the door to close but for it to maintain that seal; our 2011 International is the same. I'm hoping that time will help as the seal will degrade slowly, other than that all I can suggest is that you use a careful but firm pull from the inside without lifting the handle any. Because of the height of the handle when you're inside, the natural tendency is to lift it slightly but that, of course just opens the door. Failing that, just slam it!

Snowey BC · 05-29-2011, 11:20 PM

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f485...tml#post869916

Tons of info here about doors that misaligne and close poorly. Judging by what I read on here it is a common problem. Yes while pulling it closed on the inside the handle can fall apart in your hands locking you in.
We are finally satisfied with the door, this week we straightend the indoor handle set that was bent from last years misadventure.

6PackCharlie · 05-29-2011, 11:49 PM

We pull the handle out, push the door shut (compressing the rubber gasket) and then let go of the handle. We don't slam the door to get it to close.
Charles

withidl · 05-30-2011, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrUKToad

There's a nice fat rubber seal all around the door and it needs to be compressed a little in order for the door to close but for it to maintain that seal; our 2011 International is the same. I'm hoping that time will help as the seal will degrade slowly, other than that all I can suggest is that you use a careful but firm pull from the inside without lifting the handle any. Because of the height of the handle when you're inside, the natural tendency is to lift it slightly but that, of course just opens the door. Failing that, just slam it!

Yes, time will lessen the problem. My 2002 ASCL 31' door was difficult to close at first, but after a year or so the gasket yielded and now it can be pulled closed from the inside with minimal effort.

Inland RV Center, In · 05-30-2011, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirHedz

I removed the bolt. There is no adjustment. It screws in and ou.t That's it. Seems like it should move toward the outside of the trailer, but it doesn't move that way.

Lube the bolt and striker pocket with "silicone spray".

Magic will take place in front of your eyes.

Andy

overlander63 · 05-30-2011, 05:53 AM

The door needs to be adjusted. Adjustment is usually done in a high-tech fashion, usually with a small block of wood and a heavy-duty technician leaning on it in strategic places.

thecatsandi · 05-30-2011, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

The door needs to be adjusted. Adjustment is usually done in a high-tech fashion, usually with a small block of wood and a heavy-duty technician leaning on it in strategic places.

Good point Terry. The door is made by different people on the line from the frame. They have a slightly different curve.

AirHedz · 05-30-2011, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6PackCharlie

We pull the handle out, push the door shut (compressing the rubber gasket) and then let go of the handle. We don't slam the door to get it to close.
Charles

How do you "push the door shut" from the inside? I can push mine from the outside, and that's not much of a problem. But, the inside? Can't "push" it from there.

AirHedz · 05-30-2011, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

The door needs to be adjusted. Adjustment is usually done in a high-tech fashion, usually with a small block of wood and a heavy-duty technician leaning on it in strategic places.

That's going to be the next approach.

May just need a little "coaxing".