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Old 11-13-2010, 08:47 AM   #15
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
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To augment what has already been said (and as it appears that the newer tanks are held in using a similar method to the older ones) here is the 1977 (rear bath) instructions and exploded view:



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Old 11-13-2010, 10:26 AM   #16
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Black tank 39 gals & grey tank 37 gals: Model 1200 DC powered (9.9 amps) or model 4200 AC (1.37 amps) or model 3600 AC/DC (9/.094 amps).
Fresh water tank 54 gals: model 2400 DC (11.8 amps) or model 4800 AC (1.68 amps).
DC models for on road use and AC models for use with shore power. DC models are hard wired to fuse panel and AC models just plug in to receptacles.
Lets say you use DC models the total amp draw would be 31.6 amps and would require three seperate fuses to run them all. If you use combo units on waste tanks and the only available AC model on fresh then amp draw would be 3.56 amps AC and 18 amps DC. The AC units could be on one AC circuit and two fuses for the DC.
If you also wanted to protect drain elbows and pipes and the fresh water pipe there are models available for that. This would also draw more amperage.
When do you expect to use them? On the road or set up in a park with shore power?
It will be next year before I think about an install.
I would put AC on black and gray, as I would not run the road with anything in them; AC on dump outlets; and probably 12V on fresh. It would be nice if they made units with both 12V and 120V circuits in them, for flexibility of usage need.

I'll have to noodle how I intend to winter camp, before I make final decisions.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:40 AM   #17
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Thanks, 2air,

So you are saying that even at sub-zero temps the furnace will keep the fluids in the tank from freezing?

My biggest concern is the valve/drain assemblies. Are you indicating that they still work well with just a reflectix wrap? Even when traveling all day? Are you running the furnace while you travel?

I think your tank setup is like mine. Is the routing of "warm" forced air like this:
1) duct terminates in fresh water compartment
2) flows (somewhat) through frame crossmember between the 2 pans, into the black/gray compartment.....of course leaking out all along the way.

Did you perform additional insulating/sealing of the pans to try and "manage" flow of warm air and direct it's eventual exit (perhaps at the dump valve handles)?
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:28 AM   #18
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yep, that's the basic layout/flow of the warm (one duct) furnace air on classics...

i have not altered the oem pan/insulation it is simply too much trouble and risk gaining access.

the entire tank pan could be wrapped externally with bubble foil and aluminum tape (that should survive 1 winter season)

leaving the water heater ON gas provides a lot of warmth (and conducted heat) for not much effort.
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the external drain valves for the waste tanks can and will freeze.

depending on volume IN the tanks this seems to happen at about 20 degrees F.

of course they do thaw eventually, so my approach is to NOT use the dump valves until reaching a warmer location.

other folks dump a gallon of pink stuff into each EMPTY tank and hope some of it reaches the valves.

the freshwater feed line to the pump may freeze or get slushy.

this happened while towing once, at 10-20 degrees for a daytime HIGH.

again reaching warmer locations solves this issue too.

i do use the furnace when towing, primarily if the daytime highs are 30 or less.

taping the entry door (inside or outside) helps a lot.

since these trailers ALL leak air badly, one can use a LOT of lp gas towing in frigid weather.

2x40 lbs and a 20 lb spare in the truck.

keep furnace set to 40-44 as night time approaches if still on the road,

and once parked crank the furnace heat up to 65 (boondocking) or include space heaters IF connected to juice.

a lot depends on the winter camping goal.

IF simply taking a weekend trip it might be best to winterize the plumbing with pink stuff.

then carry drinking water, skip the shower and use a porta pot or trash bag in the toilet bowl...

IF traveling cross country with the occasional frozen night, use all systems on 'self contained' mode.
_________

full time winter living is an entirely different beast and pipe wrap heaters, skirting or other residential tricks are needed.
_________

there are several old threads on towing in d' polar belt or occasional winter trips.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f459...ing-49725.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f462...her-27228.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f462...ing-19662.html

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:53 AM   #19
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Thanks, again 2air,

Maybe all I'll do is reflectix the pans, maybe seal up extraneous air leaks in pans to try and direct airflow more positively.

Perhaps an AC dump pipe heater and wrap that area as well as the fresh water drain.
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:04 AM   #20
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1969 27' Overlander
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Hey Aage,
Where could I find a drawing of the tank setup in my 69 Overlander??? I'm having to replace rusted out supports and galvanized skin.
Thanks,
Dean
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:56 AM   #21
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Hoosierdaddy (love yer handle )

I could be wrong, but I don't think that the Service Manuals were printed and sold for 1969 TTs; IIRC they began in 1972.

Perhaps another user can prove me wrong and post the 1969 layout?
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