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08-19-2010, 01:00 PM
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#1
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Basic mods - 2010 Classic
Colonial and Inland take note, this is your opportunity to make an upgrade package for your customers.
Jammer's list of what you gotta do to a Classic Limited to make it into a nice traylah:
1) Furnish & install ProPride hitch
2) Furnish & install large matching aluminum level on propane tank cover
3) Furnish & install bubble level on coupler
4) Remove the silly decals on every window that say "warning: this window sticks because Jackson Center can't be arsed to put some silicone grease on the weatherstripping." Or something like that.
5) Put some silicone grease on teh weatherstripping while you're at it, it will take less time than getting the decals off
6) Install Andy's lockout prevention kit
7) Replace all 14 of the crap fluorescent tubes with high-CRI 3000k ones
8) Provide two additional complete sets of keys
9) Relocate thermostat as needed so it isn't behind the television
10) Remove, repaint to "sand" or "almond," and reinstall the bright white doorbell, furnace outlets, and rear A/C temperature sensor cover (if equipped)
11) Remove ugly, current-hogging propane detector. Replace with Safe-T-Alert 70-742 brown, flush mount detector and relocate to area below galley drawers.
12) Install King Electric pic-a-watt 120v 1500w wall heater with "ultra" grill in area below coat closet where old propane detector was, wire to existing 20a main loop, and add 12 volt control relay and thermostat (thermostat should be co-located with main furnace thermostat). Paint grill to "sand" or "almond" to match furnace outlets.
13) For units equipped with 50 amp power, furnish 25 foot, 30 amp cord with 50 amp Marinco trailer connector, so no adapter is required for use of 30 amp power
14) Furnish two sets of custom fitted sheets from the folks at ablifestyles
15) Furnish and install a low profile TV mount to replace that--that thing--over the dinette. Monster fsm-flat-efs SuperThin or similar
16) Install the dimmer for the Dinette Light Fixture that Jackson Center dropped as a cost saving measure
17) Furnish and install an LED porch light converesion
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08-20-2010, 12:17 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,367
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Hi, Colonial is an Airstream dealer [sells and services new Airstreams] and Inland is an Airstream parts and service company. [Does not sell new Airstreams]
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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08-20-2010, 10:50 AM
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#3
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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I was under the impression that they both, in different ways, made a living making Airstreams ... better.
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08-20-2010, 09:40 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer
I was under the impression that they both, in different ways, made a living making Airstreams ... better.
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Hi, you lost Andy on number one; He only recommends Reese Dual Cam.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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08-21-2010, 01:04 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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Good post. Thanks for the tips.
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09-02-2010, 04:40 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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Dimmer switches??? I didn't know they existed. I have been looking for dimmer switches for the dinette as well as the two "coach lights" on either side of the queen bed. I haven't found any which would "plug and play" in the existing lamp bases. Anybody know where I can git 'em?
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09-02-2010, 04:54 PM
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#7
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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I have the twin, but the lights over either bed, as well as the lights over the gaucho, have dimmers built in.
I haven't found anything that will fit into the dinette in place of the switch. There just isn't enough room.
The closest one I've found is this. If the potentiometer were replaced with one with the same rating but a shorter shaft, and the area above the dinette light canopy were counterbored, and the module were mounted in one of the roof lockers, it could be made to work:
Rotary DC Dimmer - yachtlights.com
There is this dimmer assembly that more or less blends in with the factory switches:
On-Off Rocker Switch Assembly w/Dimmer, White
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10-13-2010, 03:42 PM
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#8
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Here are the two levels I have installed. The bubble level is epoxied in place. The large level attaches with stainless steel screws.
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10-13-2010, 03:44 PM
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#9
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Here is the clock, thermometer, remounted thermostat, and remounted TV. I still have to do something about the wire for the thermometer.
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10-13-2010, 03:45 PM
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#10
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Two photos of the pic-a-watt heater
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10-13-2010, 03:48 PM
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#11
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Some photos of the repainted heating ducts and temperature sensor
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10-13-2010, 03:51 PM
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#12
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Another mod I have done that I would add to the list is the addition of a bypass switch to allow the tail and marker lights to be turned on from inside the trailer. Great when someone is trying to find the party at my traylah in a crowded campground in the rain. It is of course possible to take a wire and short two terminals in the umbilical but especially on a rainy day that isn't ideal.
I used a marine-type pull switch with a long barrel since a standard toggle switch wouldn't be able to be mounted in the 1/2" plywood without a counterbore. The switch is located under the gaucho near the junction box for the umbilical to simplify the wiring.
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10-13-2010, 04:10 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Jammer,
Your trailer and ours are very similar, thanks for all the ideas.
On our trailer, there was no indication to show if the water pump was on or off. If you wanted to know you had to open a faucet and listen for the pump to make noise.
There is a furnace vent in our trailer below the closet. I drilled a hole in the top of that vent and mounted a 12 volt LED from Radio shack. I wired it in parallel with the water pump which is right behind that vent. That location is visible from both the bathroom and the galley.
Regards,
Ken
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10-13-2010, 04:19 PM
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#14
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Excellent idea. I've been thinking of doing something like that, and it sounds like you've picked an easy spot.
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03-31-2011, 11:52 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Some great ideals for mods - wait till you catch my TV a/v system mod.
BTW Jammer - I'll mention your list to Patrick at Colonial when I see him next week.
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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04-01-2011, 10:55 AM
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#16
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Although it is more involved you may also wish to mention the acoustic noise reducing foam on the insides of the cabinets surrounding the furnace and the installation of the extra ductwork to the rear bedroom. Those have been extremely worthwhile mods.
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04-01-2011, 11:04 AM
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#17
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4 Rivet Member
2007 31' Classic
Pulaski
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 261
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Nice list. BTW, what is Andy's lockout prevention kit?
__________________
Steve & Beth
TAC AL-4
AIR 22763
07' Classic 31, 11' Dodge 3500 Cummins
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04-01-2011, 11:05 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer
Although it is more involved you may also wish to mention the acoustic noise reducing foam on the insides of the cabinets surrounding the furnace and the installation of the extra ductwork to the rear bedroom. Those have been extremely worthwhile mods.
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Jammer, did you ever post the exact materials and installation methods for the sound deadening. I missed it if you did.
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04-01-2011, 11:07 AM
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#19
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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The centrifugal force of the door closing will move the lock lever to the "locked" position some of the time on some trailers which can lock you out of the trailer. The kit contains materials to increase the friction on the lock lever so that it requires greater effort to move. I have installed it as a preventative measure. You can send an SASE to Inland RV and they'll send you the parts and instructions at no charge. It's just a fiber washer and some shims but is enough to make a difference.
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04-01-2011, 11:19 AM
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#20
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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It's very difficult to photograph so I never did the planned photo essay.
In short you will need one 18x24" sheet each of 1" and 1/2" adhesive-backed acoustic foam sheet, which you can get from Amazon.
Amazon.com: Sonic Barrier 1" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24": Electronics
Amazon.com: Sonic Barrier 1/2" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24": Electronics
The thicker foam is trimmed and placed on the outside wall behind the microwave cabinet. This area is accessible by removing the microwave. That controls most of the noise that emanates from the vent above the microwave.
The thinner foam is pieced in in several key places. Access is poor but can be achieved through the drawer under the kitchen counter, the kickspace air return, and the two forward-facing heat outlets (you have to remove the registers but not the ducts. I avoided placing any foam on the furnace itself since, even though it is flame retardant, I was concerned about the effect of heat. The locations were:
1) inside the lip of the kickspace return, that is, the part that hangs down to within 2" or so of the floor. I measured, and Atwood's return air specification is still met, because of the vent above the microwave.
2) the casework aft of the drawer. Easily accessible by removing the drawer. Helps a little with reflected noise.
3) the casework behind (starboard of) the drawer, again easily accessible, small gain but not much work.
4) The inside of the casework where the two heating ducts come out. This one is difficult to do but makes a big difference. You have to cut holes for the ducts.
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