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Old 03-31-2011, 11:52 PM   #15
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Some great ideals for mods - wait till you catch my TV a/v system mod.

BTW Jammer - I'll mention your list to Patrick at Colonial when I see him next week.
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:55 AM   #16
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Although it is more involved you may also wish to mention the acoustic noise reducing foam on the insides of the cabinets surrounding the furnace and the installation of the extra ductwork to the rear bedroom. Those have been extremely worthwhile mods.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:04 AM   #17
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Nice list. BTW, what is Andy's lockout prevention kit?
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Although it is more involved you may also wish to mention the acoustic noise reducing foam on the insides of the cabinets surrounding the furnace and the installation of the extra ductwork to the rear bedroom. Those have been extremely worthwhile mods.
Jammer, did you ever post the exact materials and installation methods for the sound deadening. I missed it if you did.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:07 AM   #19
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The centrifugal force of the door closing will move the lock lever to the "locked" position some of the time on some trailers which can lock you out of the trailer. The kit contains materials to increase the friction on the lock lever so that it requires greater effort to move. I have installed it as a preventative measure. You can send an SASE to Inland RV and they'll send you the parts and instructions at no charge. It's just a fiber washer and some shims but is enough to make a difference.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:19 AM   #20
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It's very difficult to photograph so I never did the planned photo essay.

In short you will need one 18x24" sheet each of 1" and 1/2" adhesive-backed acoustic foam sheet, which you can get from Amazon.

Amazon.com: Sonic Barrier 1" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24": Electronics
Amazon.com: Sonic Barrier 1/2" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24": Electronics

The thicker foam is trimmed and placed on the outside wall behind the microwave cabinet. This area is accessible by removing the microwave. That controls most of the noise that emanates from the vent above the microwave.

The thinner foam is pieced in in several key places. Access is poor but can be achieved through the drawer under the kitchen counter, the kickspace air return, and the two forward-facing heat outlets (you have to remove the registers but not the ducts. I avoided placing any foam on the furnace itself since, even though it is flame retardant, I was concerned about the effect of heat. The locations were:
1) inside the lip of the kickspace return, that is, the part that hangs down to within 2" or so of the floor. I measured, and Atwood's return air specification is still met, because of the vent above the microwave.
2) the casework aft of the drawer. Easily accessible by removing the drawer. Helps a little with reflected noise.
3) the casework behind (starboard of) the drawer, again easily accessible, small gain but not much work.
4) The inside of the casework where the two heating ducts come out. This one is difficult to do but makes a big difference. You have to cut holes for the ducts.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:23 AM   #21
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I did post on this back in November, here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...tml#post921189

Also reading through that I remember now that part of the 1" foam went on the bottom of the Corian countertop below the microwave.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:55 AM   #22
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You never achieved the "wow" factor though?
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:09 PM   #23
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Funny thing was, that I made the mods one at a time, and they didn't seem to make much difference. Then I came out and did some other unrelated work on the trailer a month later and the furnace seemed really quiet compared to what I remembered. Maybe sometime at a rally I can do a side-by-side comparison with stock.

I still have not had the furnace blower dynamically balanced which would, I think, help a great deal with the residual noise. At this point I hear the rumble more than the air noise or fan noise.
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:27 PM   #24
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I have recently replaced the umbilical with a 7 pin, round pin socket of the type used on semi trailers, located below the left A frame rail midway between the WD jack and the hitch. I use a two-ended umbilical cord with a suitable matching plug for whatever the TV has on it, supported by a spring attached to the top of the tongue jack. This keeps the umbilical from getting caught on the hitch components, and allows it to be removed for storage.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:42 PM   #25
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A couple of minor items, the stove mod described elsewhere, and a simple modification for opening soda pop....
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:44 PM   #26
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Umbilical photos
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