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Old 07-27-2019, 01:19 PM   #21
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Great progress . Do you have a gray tank ? If you plan on putting one in , I got mine from INCA also . Might save on shipping . Have fun , a lot of things don’t show up till you get to them . One is that plastic shelf/ wall under the window , you will need to go in the rear access and it is attached through that hole . We will be watching and here for any needed help . Blue
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Old 07-27-2019, 03:23 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Joyflea View Post
Great progress . Do you have a gray tank ? If you plan on putting one in , I got mine from INCA also . Might save on shipping . Have fun , a lot of things don’t show up till you get to them . One is that plastic shelf/ wall under the window , you will need to go in the rear access and it is attached through that hole . We will be watching and here for any needed help . Blue
No I don't have a gray tank and don't think I will attempt to put one in since 90% of our camping is at sites with full hookups. If I do camp where there isn't a sewer hookup I'll just take my portable tank with me.

I'm doing a little bit each day and hopefully we can get back to camping soon...this is a bit of a challenge.

Pete
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:14 PM   #23
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Great progress. 😊
I didnt add a gray tank either. But i do have 2 separate dump valves. One gray one black. One on each side of the trailer.
I never was able to find the proper fittings to combine them into one the way it was with the old Thetford valve.
I switched it all to valterra.
Good luck with your project!
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:23 PM   #24
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mounting plate

I'm ready to order my holding tank and am able to use the original Thetford plumbing tee and evacuation valve. However the mounting plate isn't reusable and I've not able to locate one yet. VTS suggests that a mounting plate like the in the attached picture is needed, but they don't stock that particular one. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I may find one?

Thanks.

Pete
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:44 PM   #25
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Try PPL . They are a big time supply , and ask for a catalog
,about 1.25” thick . And it’s free . When I was getting ready to buy my new AC they had it on sale for $400 less . They have fast shipping . Blue
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Old 07-30-2019, 04:01 PM   #26
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Does the tank have a 3” outlet like mine did ? If so , I have an adapter u can have . Leaving in morn but will be back on 10th or 11th . And can ship it to u . Also have a rebuild kit for that valve . Both are yours . Blue
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:48 PM   #27
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Does the tank have a 3” outlet like mine did ? If so , I have an adapter u can have . Leaving in morn but will be back on 10th or 11th . And can ship it to u . Also have a rebuild kit for that valve . Both are yours . Blue
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Attachment 348063
Yes it does...I will PM you.

Thanks.

Pete
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:26 PM   #28
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Thetford is 3 1/4" diameter, Valterra is the standard 3" diameter. Molded water tanks usually come with a molded 3" discharge port that a 3" ABS pipe will into. A little sealant around the ABS and a hose clamp and you are done. The Valterra blade valves come with either an ID or a OD adaptor. And the Valterra discharge bayonet fitting fits 3" ABS piping and fits all sewer hoses. Thetford requires a reducer. Why mess with it?

I recommend you plan your rebuild using Valterra components. You will be happy. I wonder what JoyFlea did?

David
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Old 08-02-2019, 07:10 AM   #29
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Thetford is 3 1/4" diameter, Valterra is the standard 3" diameter. Molded water tanks usually come with a molded 3" discharge port that a 3" ABS pipe will into. A little sealant around the ABS and a hose clamp and you are done. The Valterra blade valves come with either an ID or a OD adaptor. And the Valterra discharge bayonet fitting fits 3" ABS piping and fits all sewer hoses. Thetford requires a reducer. Why mess with it?

I recommend you plan your rebuild using Valterra components. You will be happy. I wonder what JoyFlea did?

David
Thanks for your advice and I'm willing to convert Valterra if I can figure out which Valterrato product to use. SInce I don't have a gray tank I need to find a Valterra that will work like the existing Thetford collector (4x2)(see pic).

I'm going to get my new tank from INCA Plastics but having a difficult time getting them to tell me how they configure the outlet flange on the tank. I've emailed them about it but no reply as of yet and only get voicemail when I call.

Pete
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Old 08-02-2019, 07:02 PM   #30
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I wonder how much better Inca Plastics would be if they serviced their customers better. I suspect they focus on OEM work and not on hobby orders.
The Inca on line catalog describes the molded drain port for the tanks, unless the molded tank doesn't have one.

Here is a photo of the drain manifold from my son's 69 Globetrotter. The sanitary 1 1/2" inlet into a 3" drain pipe is a common fitting. I recommend two Valterra blade valves; one an 1 1/2" and the black tank valve the usual 3". That way you can drain gray water into the sewer hookup, or into your blue boy if that is the way you go. Valterra does sell a 1 1/2" into a 3" arrangement if you don't have the room for a hardware store arrangement.

David
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:23 AM   #31
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Quote:
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I wonder how much better Inca Plastics would be if they serviced their customers better. I suspect they focus on OEM work and not on hobby orders.
The Inca on line catalog describes the molded drain port for the tanks, unless the molded tank doesn't have one.

Here is a photo of the drain manifold from my son's 69 Globetrotter. The sanitary 1 1/2" inlet into a 3" drain pipe is a common fitting. I recommend two Valterra blade valves; one an 1 1/2" and the black tank valve the usual 3". That way you can drain gray water into the sewer hookup, or into your blue boy if that is the way you go. Valterra does sell a 1 1/2" into a 3" arrangement if you don't have the room for a hardware store arrangement.

David
I finally got to talk with Bill at INCA Plastics on the phone and he was very helpful. I have since ordered my tank and hope it will ship next week.

I will be looking further into the Valterra solution once I get the new tank and see exactly what I'll be dealing with.

I'll keep on trudging away a little bit at a time and hope I have everything back together in time for some Fall camping. Much rather be camping that repairing

Pete
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:21 PM   #32
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Repair this year, travel with it next year with confidence it all works right.

It's worth it.

David
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:22 PM   #33
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Thanks
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Repair this year, travel with it next year with confidence it all works right.

It's worth it.

David
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Old 08-03-2019, 10:59 PM   #34
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Repair this year, travel with it next year with confidence it all works right.



It's worth it.



David


I respectfully disagree. His plan to camp this fall is the motivation to get it completed and go camping. While camping he can identify all the new problems from his renovation work. He can then repair all the problems and will be ready to camp next year with all the gremlins taken care of.

Dan
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:59 PM   #35
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Well yes, that's true. I guess I'm a guy who makes a list and does it all. But many folks do it by priority so to speak. His thread is a great example of that. Fix what is necessary, travel, fix some more, travel some more. Soon it is a totally renovated trailer. This certainly is a valid approach.

As they say here often: your trailer, your rules.

David
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:05 AM   #36
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Does the tank have a 3” outlet like mine did ? If so , I have an adapter u can have . Leaving in morn but will be back on 10th or 11th . And can ship it to u . Also have a rebuild kit for that valve . Both are yours . Blue
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:59 PM   #37
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Thank you...if you have a PayPal account I will be happy to pay you for it as well as shipping costs.

Pete
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Old 06-15-2023, 08:55 PM   #38
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goswick

You can do it! It is not rocket science. Most of us who have done this were in the same boat as you. This will just be another skill that you will have learned by working on your Airstream.

I replaced the bathroom floor from below with the shower, sink and closet in place. You do need to remove the belly pan (easy) and the banana wraps (not so easy). You should get yourself a oscillating saw if you don’t already have one. It doesn’t need to be powerful and fancy. My inexpensive one works fine. You might take a look at my thread- Dan’s 66 Tradewind Improvements. There are lots of photos detailing the bathroom floor replacement.

While you are in there I would get rid of the rusting steel box supporting the black tank.

You can do it!

Dan
Hey Dan,

I’m wanting to do this with my 68 Overlander. Can you explain how you were able to replace the floor while keeping the bathroom fixtures (sink, toilet, shower, etc.) in place?
Thank you!
Hope
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Old 06-15-2023, 09:57 PM   #39
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Hey Dan,



I’m wanting to do this with my 68 Overlander. Can you explain how you were able to replace the floor while keeping the bathroom fixtures (sink, toilet, shower, etc.) in place?

Thank you!

Hope


Now I had removed the toilet before replacing the rotted sections of the floor that needed replacing. You can pretty much get to all the rotted sections of the floor after the belly pan, black water tank and banana wraps are removed. Take a look at my project thread- go to Airstream Knowledgebase, trailers, Tradewind, 59-69, then Dan’s 66 Tradewind Improvements. You can send me a Private Message here on the forums to exchange numbers anytime.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 06-16-2023, 09:04 AM   #40
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Fix it with a epoxy

If there’s any wood at all left fix it with an epoxy. Incredibly faster. Easier. And probably less expensive. Especially if your time is worth anything.

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I need to replace the bathroom floor in my 1968 Overlander 26'. The remainder of the floor appears to be in good shape but the bathroom floor is in need of a complete repair. I'm looking for any help/suggestions I can ge on doing this. Should I attack from inside of the trailer or from underneath? I'm fairly handy but never have tackled anything like this before.

Thanks for your advice/help/suggestions.
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