Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-08-2010, 03:05 PM   #1
New Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
beeville , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
'68 overlander

My wife and I bought this 68 26' overlander to restore. I started by removing everything out of the bath to replace the sagging floor. I was able to remove the rotting plywood without having to remove belly pan to access to the bolts. I removed the grey water tank and found a great deal of rust. I plan on cleaning the area out with a powerwasher or a shopvac. I am looking for some advice on my next step.

1. Should I replace the grey water tank now that I have the floor up?

2. Do I need to drop the belly pan to bolt the floor to the body or can I just run
the floor to the wall and then screw it down?

thank's
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream 026.jpg
Views:	186
Size:	314.8 KB
ID:	110267   Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream 020.jpg
Views:	195
Size:	360.8 KB
ID:	110268  

Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream 021.jpg
Views:	179
Size:	385.7 KB
ID:	110269   Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream 023.jpg
Views:	193
Size:	304.5 KB
ID:	110271  

Click image for larger version

Name:	airstream 025.jpg
Views:	164
Size:	364.7 KB
ID:	110272  
__________________

steve68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2010, 03:24 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,103
Blog Entries: 3
Steve,

Airstreams did not come with grey tanks in 1968. I think what you are talking about is actually the black tank which if has no leaks could be reused.
__________________

SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2010, 05:01 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
till's Avatar
 
Lisle , Illinois
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,270
Images: 108
Blog Entries: 2
Steve,
Welcome to the CCC (Curved Corning Club)
You will need to remove the belly pan if you plan on using the original method of holding the floor in place i.e. elevator bolts.
Here is a link that you will find very helpful Tom's Overlander page

I am working on my '68 Overlander now too.
__________________
Tedd Ill
AIR#3788 TAC IL-10
1967/8 Overlander International Twin w/ bunk/s.
Yes, four kids and two adults in the thing.
Happy wife, happy life.
till is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2010, 06:38 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Silverwanabe's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Winston Salem , North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 523
Images: 107
Hi,

Welcome to the club!!

Your unit has foam insulation in the floor my 67 Overlander does not.
Do you know if a previous owner added that to support the floor??

Also, you will need a new black tank box built to hold the tank.

Costs will add up quick even doing it yourself.

The floor is 5/8" thick.

This site is a wealth of information plus Tom's 67 Overlander website.
It provided me a great deal of knowledge in the restoration process.

Good Luck
__________________
Greg
Winston Salem, NC
WBCCI 5218,
Corresponding Secretary Piedmont NC Unit 161,
1967 Overlander International.
1979 Avion 30ft rear bath
TV's 88 Chevy Suburban 454, 3:42, TH400
95 Cadillac FW Brougham, LT1,3:42, 7k tow pk.
Silverwanabe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 09:55 AM   #5
New Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
beeville , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by till View Post
Steve,
Welcome to the CCC (Curved Corning Club)
You will need to remove the belly pan if you plan on using the original method of holding the floor in place i.e. elevator bolts.
Here is a link that you will find very helpful Tom's Overlander page

I am working on my '68 Overlander now too.
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to remove the pan so I can bolt the plywood to the body. I have heard it adds to strength of the body.
steve68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 10:12 AM   #6
New Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
beeville , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
I'm not sure if the insulation is original, I found some paperwork in the owners manual showing some work had done in the 80s. I'm debating if I should just replace the black water tank or try to use the same one. Do you know if i need to fab. a tank support or can I buy one? Thanks for your help.
steve68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 11:13 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,103
Blog Entries: 3
I believe you will have to fab one. Most any sheetmetal shop should be able to do it for you.
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 11:32 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
68 TWind's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,532
The box is made from galvanized sheet metal. Tom's site has good pics of what you need.
I had a similar mess on my 68 Trade Wind and it also had foam insulation. I think mine was done at the factory as it is in places where the belly pan has never been removed.
Couple of time savers on the floor. Make a pattern out of 1/8 luan plywood for the replacement piece. The finish floor is very heavy so the light patter makes the fitting much easier. My original floor was so bad it could not be used as a template. You will have to install the new floor in two pieces. It is impossible to slide a whole sheet into place without removing the shell. I split mine along the top of the frame rail on the street side. When you get everything fitted, and most likely you will want to remove more of the interior to have room to work, cut the new piece from the 5/8. If you will put a slight bevel on the edge of the new wood, it will slip into the channel much easier. Also, I coated the edges with several coats of a marine epoxy resin and then put 4 coats of marine urethane spar varnish on top and bottom to give it as much protection from water as possible.
Finally, while you have everything out put the rear hatch on and have someone spray the outside of the trailer with water. Find the leaks, and there will be leaks, and fix them. I had leaks all around the frame of the hatch, the door of the hatch, and the window frame. If you would like any pic, PM me and I'll send them but Tom's site covers it very well.
Home Depot has the self drilling/tapping floor blots that you can use i places were you can't get a nut on the elevator bolt. VTS has the large flat head bolts you will need.
__________________

__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
68 TWind is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A 1963 Overlander named Moonraker! reinergirl 1960 - 1964 Overlander 702 08-28-2017 11:36 AM
New to me Overlander Northlander 1974 - 1977 Overlander 10 12-04-2011 05:33 PM
Catarina 1963 Airstream Overlander :: 1963 Airstream Overlander utee94 Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 08:31 AM
Need Door for 1961 Overlander BentMetal 1960 - 1964 Overlander 9 07-28-2011 04:36 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.