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Old 12-21-2018, 08:32 PM   #99
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I used the same shore power inlet receptacle as you did, so it appears. I used a ragged old hole saw to cut the holes. I did file them smooth. No fancy dimpled die set for me. I too have the inlet inside a bath cabinet right under the AC power distribution box. I think having a "conventional" shore power receptacle is much better than the original "hard wired" power cord coming out of the rear bumper storage area.

David
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:56 AM   #100
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1967 26' Overlander
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Onward to the bath !

Going to be 75 today , so I washed up the fiberglass and plastic parts to the bath .
Question , I have a few cracks in the plastic , what does everyone find that works the best for the repair ? Also a little spinderwebbing in the fiberglass .
Thinking of installing all the parts and making it as strong as possible without all the movement . Then I will sand and paint . Any suggestions on paint and prep ? What did everyone else use ? I will probably spay the whole bath at one time .
Hope Iím not posting too much and boring everyone .
Blue
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Old 12-22-2018, 02:56 PM   #101
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After the pieces dried the wind came up . So I got them in the mother ship . I clecoed them togeather in place . I forgot how small this bath is .

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Old 12-22-2018, 07:49 PM   #102
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Hi: A crack in my tub had been patched with what looked like a fiberglass repair kit. I checked it for leaks before I removed it and it was okay. I had a small body shop paint my plastics with an automotive paint similar to the paints they use for plastic bumpers and the like. It is supposed to be a bit more flexible. The Airstream plastic parts are pretty flimsy and flex a lot. I do not know what prep method the body shop used.

Yep, the Airstream bath area is rather small, like the whole trailer. I believe that is one reason Airstream used a rear bath for so many years. They wanted a bigger bathroom to sell more trailers.

David
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:48 AM   #103
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I love reading about where you are in your repairs so no you aren't boring me but I rarely have any helpful suggestions so I follow along quietly.

I can offer a suggestion on bathroom repairs though! We used fiberglass to fill the hole where the seat was located. It does show a little but not too much to bother me. We did have a bit of spiderwebbing on the top of the "hamper" behind the toilet. When we sprayed the peices with epoxy paint ( Besa, formulated for plastic) it just kind of seeped in the cracks. Our crack was pretty superficial and not very deep. Again if you look closely you can still see it but you really have to look.

Spraying the bathroom was to "clean them up" and bring back some shine. It worked beautifully! It is also standing up to cleaning and use so far but we only got to go out 3 times with the trailer before retiring it for the winter
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:36 AM   #104
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Winter in Texas ?

Well we got cold in west Texas last night . Not that cold compared to our northern friends . 24 and ice fog , not what Iím use to . Moved all the bath parts into my shop so I can do something this next week . Also will go through my wood pile of some quarter sawn oak and pick out some to start cutting and shaping . Blue
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:25 PM   #105
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Hi There,

Been following along since day one, but you're so self skilled, tooled up, and well advised, that I've had little to offer, so just been watching, admiring from afar...


The decision to restore, rather than recreate your 1967's bath is wise. “Run what you brung” is an effective and economical solution to these molded plastic baths 1964 to 197?

The '67 is unique in its triangle bath tub's placement sorta perpendicular to trailer center-line. There's actually a comfortable amount of space for a narrow six-footer to stand fully upright in the tub.

The “Penthouse” bath of 1967 and 1968 works well enough. They're easy to clean, you get a nice toe-kick at the sink, with storage below, and lots of legroom when “seated”. A picture window, decent closet or wider countertop, hamper space, the toilet simply bolts to the floor like in real life.…

The original shower curtain offerings appear to be either the curtain track adhered to endcap or the bulkhead-mount padded accordion folding contraption. Neither is clever, but a conventional shower curtain rod can be adapted.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...on-147648.html

Three years of the “Airline”, Two years of the “Penthouse”, and then 1969's widened trailer came along and it was back to the weirdness of the sink over tub, or is it tub under sink? The 1969 plastic (excluding Caravel and GT) was called the “Bel-Air” bath. I think that in 1974, with the new upcoming “side bath”, the “Bel-Air” bath became the “rear bath” and the romance of bath naming ended...


There's stuff like this, and quite a bit on-line explained about web cracks in fiberglass.

http://magicezy.com/how-to-repair-ha...uctural-level/


I think that if you're going to repaint, a professional fill and prep, and epoxy paint should last another fifty years. If you fiberglass with a boat repair kit, be sure to grind the waxy skin off the first coat before the next coat. The new coat doesn't stick well to the previous coat unless the skin is scuffed off.

I brushed an oil based epoxy that I tinted to match the original pinkish beige that had become discolored from the tannin of leaves left in the sink. No amount of oxy-bleach-cleaners would remove the discoloration. I painted it in-place, with my trusty Synthetic 1” beveled Purdy. I like to say that if you can find a run or sag, I'll sign the GT's title over to you. My tub, and remaining plastic are original good enough for now.

I wouldn't use Krylon Fusion on Airstream sink/tub plastic, but did experiment with it, and left to cure for a few weeks, I must say that it's not bad for an easy cheap fix on ABS and PVC.

One can find polyester resin fiberglass, PVC, ABS, cyanuramide Melamine, polyurethane, silicone, latex, epoxy, Bondo, and JB Weld in my bath. It's all plastic.


Fixing up the bath can keep you busy for a long while.... Stay in touch
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:54 PM   #106
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Aluminuminum: Thank you for your insightful experience with Airstream plastic bath designs and fixtures. My 66 Trade Wind had the sink over bath and the "console" toilet with a thick cushion over the thing. So it was called Airline and I didn't care for it much. The 67 and 68 bath designs were much better in my view. My son's 69 Globetrotter is a wet bath with an above floor 12 gal black tank. The drain port is straight down. Difficult to connect, and often damaged on inclines. Dumb design.

My 75 "rear bath" ain't the greatest either. Airstream added overhead compartments back there forcing the tub toward the center. It does give more headroom for the shower. Maybe a big rear bath was a strong selling point back then. The new shower curtain hanger is going to take come creativity on my part as I really want a "U" shaped track to keep the water out of the overhead cabinet.

The wife's 86 Limited mid bath design is much more traditional with a wooden vanity. But it does have a plastic sink bowl and a plastic shower stall.

I had a low overhead body shop paint my bath plastics with an automotive paint designed for plastics. We will see how it lasts. Looks good now. Actually for 43 years, the plastic fixtures have held up pretty well.

I hear Airstream is calling their latest bath design "the crapper". This may turn out to be a marketing blunder. Not very romantic.

Press on regardless Blue... We're all learning from your project.

David
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:37 AM   #107
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Got the wheel wells insulated and four of the six floor 1/4 underpayment put in to flatten and smooth out the floor for the finished floor . Said floor a bunch ! Will show pictures when done . Cold and ice today . Blue
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Old 01-04-2019, 12:50 PM   #108
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Underlayment done

Well got the underlayment done and screwed off . Fitting the floor while waiting on the special glue to hold it down . I really like the way this goes togeather and itís waterproof. Talked to one of the big class A builders of custom rigs and this was the product they use . They told me how the install and yes they put the cabinets on top with no problem . Will see . This floor product is stable and has a rubber bottom . The dark ones will be under cabinets.
Glue was to be here today and that would be nice since the next few days are going to be in the upper 60s and low 70s . Texas weather . Blue
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:31 PM   #109
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No glue yet .

Of coarse the glue did not show up Friday. Maybe Monday, but while Iím waiting I cleaned up the area where I will be working on the cabinets. Also got a few roes of flooring fitted . I numbered each piece and disassembled and stacked ready to do the final install when the glue comes in . Will be going out of town on Wednesday thru Saturday but will be able to pick up some wood for the cabinets.
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:30 PM   #110
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Got my glue but itís been too cold to use . Floor will have to wait till midweek . Been repairing cracks and chips and spiderwebbed fiberglass. Should have bath ready for paint on Tuesday .
Bought some PPG paint while out of town . Had a gallon of epoxy mixed up to match up with the oven door teal color . Got some primer, plastic adhesive paint , gallon of white , gallon of teal , hardners , reducers ......so now Iím broke .
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:15 PM   #111
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I understand completely. I find rattle can paint is cheaper. David
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Old 01-20-2019, 12:29 PM   #112
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Floor done !

So I had a warm day and started glueing down the floor . The gallon did not cover the 165 sq. ft like they said it would . I ran out of glue and had to order another and got it Friday . To cold on Saturday but nice enough today . Itís all in and Iím really happy with it . Tomorrow I will get some heavy paper to cover it to keep it from scratchs and start the plumbing . Then on to bath and cabinets.Click image for larger version

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This will be much more enjoyable. Blue
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