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Old 10-26-2015, 03:58 PM   #1
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Worried About Floor Rot

Considering pulling the trigger on a new Flying Cloud 19 - is it a realistic concern that I might need to replace/repair the floor within 10 years time? Even if I do regular inspections for leaks? This thread has made me nervous. Give it to me straight!
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:33 PM   #2
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All you can do is do maintenance ,and inspections to try and delay the floor rot issue. It's simple when wood gets wet ,it rots , the airstream design and or materials needs to change to eliminate this problem that's been going on since airstream was invented, I own a 2015 and was waxing it yesterday and noticed the caulking around the roof vent and antenna base had cracks in it , today I remouved the old caulking and resealed it. Airstreams are a lot of work! Even 2015 's , I've attached some pictures the close up photos show a crack in the caulking .

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Old 10-26-2015, 04:35 PM   #3
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Keep up the maintenance.

Floors rot because checks for leaks and maintenance don't occur. Floor rot is totally preventable. It's not going to happen because it leaked one time in the rain. But if you let a leak persist for 10 years.... well duh.
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:37 PM   #4
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Here is a second picture of antenna base. With poor caulking!
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:48 PM   #5
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Oh here is another spot airstream forgot to put caulking on the rivet heads under the front window,these are were the front plastic ,tinted ,glass protectors are fastened to, nice !�� they did it on three others but missed these two rivets on one mount,
Sorry photo is sideways !
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Old 10-26-2015, 06:32 PM   #6
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You may want to do a little research on SealTech leak testing. If your dealer does it, maybe you can get a couple of annual tests thrown in as part of the deal.

Down the road, if you are a do-it-yourselfer, search for Hillbilly leak test on this forum.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:00 PM   #7
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Here is a second picture of antenna base. With poor caulking!
Don
AS management must have had a whip on the tech who applied the chalk on the vent and antenna. What a rushed sloppy job.

Kelvin
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:22 PM   #8
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Set up a regular inspection schedule to check for leaks, inspect caulking, and inspect and treat panel edges and rivets and shell fittings for corrosion (CorrosionX is a good product), touch up nicks and scratches with a clear acrylic pen. Treat the underbody steel as well. I would suggest quarterly in your area based on our experience. You could back that up with a SealTech Leak Test every few years by an RV shop.

The only way to know if your plywood subfloor is wet without disassembly is by probing through the vinyl floor into the plywood subfloor with a moisture detection meter. Sharpen the probes to make it easy and leave little trace. Probe the perimeter of the interior floor all around, especially under windows, door, and awning supports. If its wet, find and seal the leak. Then be sure the floor dries out.

This is a simple and effective meter made by Sonin, the probe is on the end of wires so it's ideal to get into the corners. About $30.

Your subfloor cannot rot unless it's wet, and that can be prevented.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:11 PM   #9
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AS management must have had a whip on the tech who applied the chalk on the vent and antenna. What a rushed sloppy job.

Kelvin
Kelvin. I think a three year old put the caulking on , all the newer airstreams are done this way! My 2012 was the same!

Don
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:36 PM   #10
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The caulking ain't pretty but it probably won't leak for awhile, unlike a finely laid bead that will be good a season or two. They've been heaping this stuff on the top and underside of the Airstream for some time, our 2012 has it. You do need a stepladder to see it, and I suppose that's the reasoning.

Troublesome is the unsealed exterior pop rivets. Water can enter the trailer in great quantities through those little holes when going down the road in a downpour, and there is a negative air pressure on the inside of the Airstream. Like sucking a soda through a straw.

Add this to your regular inspection and repair schedule. Seal the hole and all around the rivet. You'll find them at the rock guards, awning support arms, model emblems, maybe other.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:49 PM   #11
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I would highly recommend sealing everything on the roof with Eternabond Alumibond... EternaBond | AlumiBond / A-Seal, A Seal, Aluminum Faced

You won't have to worry about roof leaks for a long time.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:09 PM   #12
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I would highly recommend sealing everything on the roof with Eternabond Alumibond... EternaBond | AlumiBond / A-Seal, A Seal, Aluminum Faced

You won't have to worry about roof leaks for a long time.
Thanks for the info. A couple of Q's:

1) How long would the tape last? How often do you need to do this?
2) If/when you need to replace the tape, does it come off easily? Or do you just apply another tape on top of the existing one?

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:32 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info. A couple of Q's:

1) How long would the tape last? How often do you need to do this?
2) If/when you need to replace the tape, does it come off easily? Or do you just apply another tape on top of the existing one?

Thanks!
I have had the Eternabond Alumibond tape on our 1987 Avion for almost 2 years (2 hot summers, one cold winter) and it looks as good as the day I applied it. From Eternabond's site:
"How long does EternaBond® last? Because EternaBond® is made using MicroSealant Technology®, depending on surrounding conditions, EternaBond® has an estimated life expectancy of 18-35 years if applied correctly. The "pre-activated" shelf life of EternaBond®, stored correctly, is 5 years!"


I don't have any more life expectancy information than that, but as sticky as the stuff is, I can't imagine it NOT lasting a long time.


I'll see if I can find any info about removal.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:45 PM   #14
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get some Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.
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