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Old 07-07-2010, 08:19 PM   #1
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1974 27' Overlander
1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
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Where are these leaks coming from?

'74 Overlander with a couple of areas of rotted wood and need to know possible areas to focus on.
First photo is inside the door to the right at the bottom of the gaucho.
Second photo is to the right of the entry door.
Third photo is inside the storage area under the credenza.

I've ordered window, door, compartment and roof gaskets for every opening and will be installing soon.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:52 PM   #2
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1977 31' Sovereign
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My 77' had slight leaks in several of the same places. Although I intend to, I have not replaced any window or doors gaskets yet. I did seal with Sicaflex the top of the belt line trim and the seam around the doors and windows in all of the leaking areas. I have not seen damp plywood since. Be sure to use Vulkem, Sikaflex or Parbond...not silacone.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:44 PM   #3
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Identical leaks on our "78" Ambassador. PO had siliconed windows, door, ect. I pulled off the old silicone and resealed with parbond. Also check the awning if you have one. I'm not sure what the culprit was on our but seems to have stopped the leaking...for now.

Bob
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:58 PM   #4
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If you check out the the end of the awning rail, I have found many Airstreams of that vintage have a missing rivet where the rail meets the end cap rivet line. There is a hole for a rivet under the rail but only has some old caulking in it. That can be the cause of the leak at the door. Check both ends as I have found it on both on some trailers.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:11 PM   #5
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1974 27' Overlander
1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
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This is what the awning looks like.

Photos of the awning.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:30 PM   #6
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Get right on the rear storage locker lid interface to the shell - thats a pipeline to water intrusion!

Check for holes - missing rivets and old lifted caulk, silicone never stands up for more than a season or two. Get on roof and make sure the plumbing vent tubes extend above shell inside their covers, that their gaskets are intact and the drain hole(s) are clear of debris

Refresh the roof vulkem as needed on the major sealing areas of the vents and things.

I hit every seam with the Alcoa seam sealer - first burnished the shell pieces seams overlap edge clean with a dremel rotary tool with a small stainless steel wire wheel and wiped down with solvent. Did same to every window/hatch/door openings frame to shell seam.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:48 AM   #7
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floor rot

Not to steal the thread, but my 73 Tradewind has almost the same rot at the door (pic 2 on post #1), maybe a little bit bigger spot. What would most of you do? I'm leaning towards patching it, from the refridgerator wall to under the fold up table, maybe in 6" or so, or to the next frame rail from doorway. Would that mean removing the lower inner skin behind the table, or could I be lucky enough that it would slide in? MPJ
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:59 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by moparjohn View Post
Not to steal the thread, but my 73 Tradewind has almost the same rot at the door (pic 2 on post #1), maybe a little bit bigger spot. What would most of you do? I'm leaning towards patching it, from the refridgerator wall to under the fold up table, maybe in 6" or so, or to the next frame rail from doorway. Would that mean removing the lower inner skin behind the table, or could I be lucky enough that it would slide in? MPJ
If the flooring still has a little life, then it can easily be repaired using a slow setting of fiberglas resin.

Pour it on the bad area, and let in slowly penetrate the plywood.

Using about 1/3 of the required amount of activator will do the trick.

If done correctly, it may take a day or two to solidify.

Then, you have saved yourself a lot of unnecessary work, and worry.

Andy
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:09 PM   #9
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Where is the best place to purchase "fiberglass resin?" Any particular brand to look for?

Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:51 PM   #10
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Where is the best place to purchase "fiberglass resin?" Any particular brand to look for?

Thanks.
RV H-D Lady.... You will find that there are both polyester resin and epoxy resins on the market. The polyester is less expensive but does not hold up as well as the epoxy. I've found that the best source of epoxy resins are the products made by West System Epoxy by the Leading Epoxy Manufacturer | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy. They package their products so they are easy to mix and they have everything you need to work with the resin. You should be able to pick it up at any marine supply store such as West Marine (no connection). Good luck.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:06 PM   #11
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I used this product to repair some slight rot in my trailer:
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
The stuff is nasty to work with, so follow the precautions.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:30 PM   #12
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I had the same leak sites. The leak in the credenza came from the refrigerator roof vent. You don't have to remove the vent cover, just use something narrow like old knife to smear vulkem (or whatever sealant you're using) around the edge of the vent under the cover.
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #13
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leaks are hard to find sometimes ,ever witch way your trailer is out of level thats is the way the water runs sometimes from one end to the other under the skin and you think its leaking in the rear but the leak is in the front.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:03 AM   #14
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Thanks everyone.

I checked out Rot Doctor and cringed. I'll check out West Systems and note my cringe level.
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