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Old 08-23-2011, 09:35 AM   #15
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West , California
Join Date: May 2010
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Originally Posted by Aktundra View Post
Excited and over whelmed with how much I have to learn. I keep telling myself . . .at least its only a 16' Bambi, . . .at least it's only a 16'.....

Still trying to sort through the info in the forum. After researching where to start (floor and frame), I started trying to list the tools I was going to need. A forum search produced mostly expired links to on-line sources but I think I am wading through things.

It looks like the first tool I am going to need, is a rivet remover. Since interior and exterior are different forums. Perhaps this is as good a place as any to post a tool question.

Can the same rivet remover be used for exterior buck rivets (drop the belly pan) as interior blind rivets (remove inner panels to release the floor/frame)? Suggested sources for a rivet remover?
I used both of these tools one for blind "pop" rivets and one for solid rivets
Aircraft Tool Supply | RIVET REMOVAL TOOL | 1341A
Aircraft Tool Supply | BLIND RIVET REMOVAL TOOL | 1341S
They make rivet removal really simple. Also I would buy some extra drill bits from VTS or Inland RV cause you will break them. Dont get the regular 1/8" or 3/16" from local hardware stores. Fastanal is also a great place to get rivets stainless steel bolts nuts screws etc. Check out my thread and you will see whats in store for you. I am picking up my axles in a bit hope to have pics up tonite!!

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Old 08-23-2011, 09:08 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
Anchorage , Alaska
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 166
thanks mimiandrews, I will get a #30.

I was thinking I would start with the interior blind rivits since they have that nice centering hole.

do you know if the factory blind rivets are the same shaft diameter as the factory buck rivets?

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Old 08-23-2011, 10:13 PM   #17
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1966 22' Safari
Weatherford , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,146
Everything I have drilled out in our '66 Safari has been a 1/8" diameter rivet shaft. The only thing we've had to do in that department has been a few interior pop rivets and a few rivets on top where we replaced the air conditioner. In other words, not much experience, because we were lucky on the condition of our trailer.

Olympic rivets have a 3/16" diameter shaft, but the head is the same size as the 1/8" bucked rivets. That might take a #20 drill. It definitely takes that to drill the correct size to install them. I haven't taken any of those out yet, just put them in.

I think the factory bucked rivets in the Airstream are aircraft AN470A4-? The 4 in the rivet number is the diameter in 32nds of an inch so a 4 is 1/8". The dash number that I don't know is the length of the rivet in 16ths.

The interior rivets I've found are plain old big box store pop rivets.
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Old 08-24-2011, 11:55 AM   #18
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1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach , California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
Originally Posted by Aktundra View Post
thanks mimiandrews, I will get a #30.

I was thinking I would start with the interior blind rivits since they have that nice centering hole.

do you know if the factory blind rivets are the same shaft diameter as the factory buck rivets?
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but Cleco's make life a heck of a lot easier too. One of the best investments I made in taking apart and reassembling the trailer. They are especially useful in securing the endcaps and ceiling skins while you are drilling out rivets, or else the stresses from the weight of the freed section will try to shear the drill bit and cause damage or at least a safety risk.

And remember, this forum runs on pictures, so make sure to add lots of those.

- Peter (and Marie)

1959 Pacer 18' Renovation - Knight in Shining Armor

Our Adventure Blog - Documenting our backpacking, hiking, camping, and Airstreaming
(still updating, haven't gotten to the Airstream trips yet)
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