What size panhead screws in the U channel?

58BUBBLE · 08-13-2005, 11:31 AM

Hi, its been a while since I last posted but I'm trying to get back to work on my Bubble. It has been sitting on saw horses in my yard for a few months now and I've got to get it done. I've replaced the floor and am ready to install the U channel to the floor. WHAT SIZE SCREWS ARE RECOMMENDED FOR SCREWING THE CHANNEL DOWN? Probably a dumb question but I can't remember what I pulled out. I've got to get motivated b4 the weather gets bad again. TIA

malconium · 08-13-2005, 12:57 PM

I would suggest you go with about 1" long and maybe a number 8 or 10 size screw with a pan head. I don't remember for sure what diameter the 8 or 10 are though. As I recall the ones that I originally took out were in the range of 1/8" in diameter. The 1" length should be enough to go through the channel and all the way through the plywood (assuming it is 3/4"). If you plywood is 5/8" then probably 3/4" screws would be fine.

I am about to get back to working on my AS some too.

Malcolm

MarkR · 08-13-2005, 02:50 PM

Am in the same boat - Can't seem to get my priorities straight - All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.
And don't forget the "bolts" thru the channel then plywood then outrigger, not sure what size or type those should be?

greg176 · 08-13-2005, 03:02 PM

I used a #10 x 5/8" plated steel pan head screw.

**wahoonc** · 08-13-2005, 05:31 PM

I used #10x 1" stainless (#8's are what came out) for the out riggers I had a box of 1/4-20x3" stainless bolts to use. Decided to use stainless for all repair work...I realize it might not have been cost effective for the factory to use them, but I DON'T want to have to do it again...

I know what you mean...mine has been yard art for over a year, it has been too freakin' hot to be working in an Airstream without A/C

Aaron

58BUBBLE · 08-20-2005, 11:53 AM

Temp has dropped a little today so I will try and get the channel installed- wish me luck!

58BUBBLE · 08-20-2005, 05:35 PM

Well its been a productive day. I got all of the U channel installed and my next big task will be installing the belly pan. Here is a question though, the way it was wired b4 the power for all 12 volt lights including inside and outside the trailer ran from the tow vehicle and went through a hole that was drilled through the belly pan, floor, and U channel and into the wall where it was then distributed to the various lights. Would it be a better idea to have it run from the tow vehicle to a receptacle on the outside skin surface? It seems as though it would be a cleaner install and there wouldn't have to be a hole drilled through the floor. Has anyone done anything like this? You could have a single cord that runs between the tow vehicle & trailer that could be removed and stored when not in use. I have seen some heavy duty outlets that would work well. Let me know what you think and if there are any problems with this idea.

**wahoonc** · 08-20-2005, 06:13 PM

The cord idea is the way mine came hooked up from the factory. There is a male connector with a spring loaded cap on the front of the trailer and a pig tail that goes between them. The wires are led from a box on the front interior bulked, down thru a hole in the U channel and then down the frame to wherever it is they go.

Aaron