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Old 05-11-2011, 12:48 PM   #1
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1989 29' Excella
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What POR-15 products would you buy if it was a great price?

Due to my sister working for a major paint company, I have the opportunity to buy POR-15 products for 50% off in a couple weeks.

At that price I figure I should por-15 the whole trailer.

Here's what I have come up with so far..

Marine Clean
- Site says I need it for preparation of all rusting areas.

Por-strip. I couldn't find anyone recommending this to strip clear coat, nor to strip the vinyl decal. Should I get it?
POR-STRIP-POR-15 Inc.

Hardnose paint - Black for all frame components beneath, hitch, etc. Orange or black for hensley.
HARDNOSE PAINT-POR-15 Inc.

Whitecote
- I have read numerous reviews about this being good for the bathroom plastic.
WHITECOTE-POR-15 Inc.


Glisten PC
- I read a about a few people who talked about using it on a polished exterior, but never found anyone who followed through with it. Por-15's rep said that polished aluminum is exactly what Glisten is designed for. Additionally, one concern noted on the forum was "how do you get it off if it starts to fail eventually". The POR rep said that they have a stripper product that will wash it off in a way that seemed similar to the common clear cote removal procedure we all know about. He said it was a complete non-issue. If you ever want to re-apply, just spray on stripper, wash off, dry, re-apply Glisten.
GLISTEN PC-POR-15 Inc.

AP120 - Prep for Glisten, I believe it etches the polished metal.
AP120-POR-15 Inc.

So what do you guys think.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:58 PM   #2
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Sounds like a great list. Double check, but most of the pro15 products do not have UV inhibitors and need to be topcoated to protect them. This may have changed.
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:03 PM   #3
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I have used Marine Clean on many things. Very useful product.
I would definitely use the por-15 on the frame followed with a top coat.
Since the cost is good I would buy a large can of the Por-15 and several small cans. The small cans are good for various small jobs that always seem to surface.
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator View Post
Sounds like a great list. Double check, but most of the pro15 products do not have UV inhibitors and need to be topcoated to protect them. This may have changed.
Hardnose and Whitecoat are topcoats and UV resistant.

"HARDNOSE Paints will withstand even the most intensive UV environments"

"
It's perfect for wrought iron patio furniture, plumbing fixtures, etc., because it's super-tough, not UV-sensitive, and brilliantly white."

I will be following for your opinion of Glisten.

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Old 05-11-2011, 01:37 PM   #5
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I just spoke with por15 again. He said that he did not know how effective por-strip would be against the vinyl inside or out, but that it is perfect for the clear coat on the outside. Hopefully it works well. I was interested in it as well because it is sprayed on without regard for windows, weatherstripping, etc. I doubt I'll let any of it get on anything but aluminum, but it would be nice if it doesn't rip apart rubber.

Also, to amend my initial comment he did say that I also needed prep and ready after marine clean if I'm not sandblasting the surface.
--------------


Thanks for bringing up uv. The Por-15 rust preventative paints says:

POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

So I guess anything on the sunny side should then be covered with hardnose.
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:08 PM   #6
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You might want to think about buying the POR in a bunch of smaller cans rather than a big one. I've heard that once a can is opened it can be hard to seal again (they want you to use plastic wrap in between the lid and the can because POR will actually fuse the can shut! And if you can't get it airtight the paint may harden.

In addition, I'm wondering about the whitecote being safe for an interior paint. Did the rep comment on that? There's numerous warnings about not using exterior paint in the interior of our homes, I wonder if there might be an issue.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:38 PM   #7
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Thanks for that advise. It makes perfect sense that a bunch of smaller cans will cost less in the long run if I don't end up wasting half a big can.

On their website their is even a story of a person who redid their porcelain pedestal sink so I would think they approve.

However I will ask in my next phone call. Thanks!
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:41 PM   #8
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I asked a rep in an email about using hardnose paint for shower refinishing. He said that he thought it would be fine.

I never did it because I got the rust stain off the bottom.

Sometimes I still consider doing the shower in black or dark chocolate brown, but right now I'm leaning toward using Retr0Bright on the shower pan and other ABS in the bath.
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:05 PM   #9
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I have Utilized Por15 on automotive frame and accessory applications with GREAT SUCCESS!!

I am unaware of other products for applications at this point...

Yet, as far as a frame prep and application--GREAT PRODUCT! On auto/Off-Road Applications.

I would DEFINITELY Utilize this Product Again in the appropriate application( i.e. FRAMES)....A Thought and photographic inplant :~)

More Applications and Usefulness...I'd like to know also....

In short--Great Product for intended(applied) application...

Christopher
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:05 PM   #10
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We did the entire bath - shower pan, walls, ceiling - in the Argosy with WhiteCoat. After 4 years it is still bright white and porcelain hard.

Sergei
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:13 PM   #11
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Additionally, YES--ALL of the POR15 Products 'utilize' and etching system prior to their products being effective. As with most types of applications(not always an etching aspect though).

Again, I am familiar with the frame(metal) coat(black)...and have utilized it numerous time in the auto/off road application with GREAT SUCCESS.

If it cam down to a "full restoration"/ "partial restoration" on My Travel Trailer...I would be inclined to utilize the POR15 on the frame and subframe areas....

Just My Thought...
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:18 PM   #12
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SmokelessJoe,

Now here is another GREAT Application of POR15 , that I was unaware of, and will Keep in My memory banks for future reference....seeing how this is a part of my trailer that will need cosmetic nuturing in the future...

Great Post--Thanks,
Christopher
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:35 PM   #13
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Copy the smaller cans. The lids are a bitch to remove/replace. Also the solvent is very handy for clean up. I would snag a couple spray cans of their self etching primer. You will need to sand the surface (280-300 grit) of cured Por15 and spray it with the primer to get good adhesion. And yes Por15 is very UV sensitive. Anything exposed to direct sun needs a top coat, like Hard Nose. I am going to post some pics of that process in a few weeks on my thread.
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Attachment 129649

Attachment 129650

Attachment 129651


We did the entire bath - shower pan, walls, ceiling - in the Argosy with WhiteCoat. After 4 years it is still bright white and porcelain hard.

Sergei
So it goes on ok on the "formica" like finish on the walls/doors and vanity?
brush or spray?
about how much to cover the whole bath?
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:08 PM   #15
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Chuck,

Some explanation of the bath painting in my main thread here, post #117:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...e-18448-9.html

First we used those small foam-rubber rollers. Mistake. The chemicals in the paint melted the rubber and ruined the job.

We had to sand the whole thing down and start again. It was then brushed on and you can hardly tell; it's almost spray-like looking.

If memory serves me the distributor replaced the product free I can't remember how much it took but 1 or 2 quarts I think. If you really have to know I might be able to dig out the bills.

Sergei
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:31 PM   #16
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Chuck,

Some explanation of the bath painting in my main thread here, post #117:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...e-18448-9.html

First we used those small foam-rubber rollers. Mistake. The chemicals in the paint melted the rubber and ruined the job.

We had to sand the whole thing down and start again. It was then brushed on and you can hardly tell; it's almost spray-like looking.

If memory serves me the distributor replaced the product free I can't remember how much it took but 1 or 2 quarts I think. If you really have to know I might be able to dig out the bills.

Sergei
That looks great! I wish I would have been able to see inside! Were you in A at springstream? We just saw you when you were leaving.
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:58 PM   #17
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That was me that you saw, pulling out to head over the mountains to Asheville.

Click image for larger version

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I made it safely and am now back home in Toronto, after 173 days on the road!

Sergei
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:38 PM   #18
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Does anyone have input on how many gallons of the prep products I should get? I know it says it dilutes down, but I couldn't find and real estimate.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:40 AM   #19
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I bought a gallon of each the Metal Prep Marine Clean. A little goes a long way, but I use it for a lot of other stuff very handy to have around.
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:47 PM   #20
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POR15 Glisten - Not at any price

I have worked with coatings of all types and all application methods in the marine, construction and auto industry for more than 40 years. That said, here is what happened with Glisten.

I was sold on the product by a rep that visits our shop once a month or so. He stopped by while we were prepping my 1991- 350 motorhome for paint and clear. I talked with Por on several occasions before and during the process. I liked the fact that it could be rolled and tipped as is often done with marine finishes. I have used that process too many times to remember in boat yards where you could not spray. It always worked very well on the finishes. It always looked as good as our sprayed on finishes.

We applied the POR Glisten exactly by the company's written recommendations and phone advice. I'm obsessive about following such things with new products in the shop.

Roll and tip POR Glisten and then throw sand into it. The sand will smooth it out compared to the finish you will get following their recommended application. No, it doesn't lay down and flow out the brush marks any more than latex paint on a hot car hood will flow out.

20 man hours later of sanding it flat we decided to shoot it for a real nice, gleaming, smooth finish. What was I thinkin'! At least by spraying it you won't need the sand thrown on it. It automatically turns to the texture of non-skid. You cannot thin it enough, use a large enough tip, or supply enough pressure to get the stuff to atomize and flow out smooth. It's worse than trying to shoot a Shell based epoxy resin.

Monday morning my men will back sanding it again. All we can do at this point is shoot an over coat of automotive clear and hope for the best.

The cost of the product, sanding disks and labor costs made this a $1500.00 mistake and I still need to buy and shoot the auto clear.

By the way - all the Nasson automotive colors and clear we shot on this coach came out great. POR15-Glisten was the only problem child. I will never use it or recommend it to anyone for any reason.

I hope this helps anyone thinking of using it for anymore than a very small job where it will not be noticed.

John
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