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Old 07-03-2012, 09:38 PM   #15
Ora
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1974 29' Ambassador
LAMPASAS , Texas
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I took a few pics of the tank pans with a couple of measurements. I hope the notes on the pics help some, I am a novice at using Paint program. I am close to finally getting these installed again.. My wifes new name for our " Rosie Rivets" has become "money pit"
I had the new pans made from a little heavier gage material , from 22 ga to 20 ga, for a little extra rigity. The weak point in my opinion is the small 2 1/2" hinges used at the forward mount. I went up to a little heavier grade 3" hinge. The pans are 42 3/4" long x 7" tall. Gray is 22" wide and the Black was 29 1/2". These were for my '74 Ambassador / 29ft rear bath, don't know if yours are the same, The styrofoam under the tanks, plus the plastic support trays allow for pop rivets / Olympic rivets to go into the support pans to hold the underbelly skin up. When I saw the rivets under there, I was afraid I had many holes in the tanks, but all was okay.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:08 AM   #16
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1975 31' Sovereign
Pierre , South Dakota
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 133
I won't to thank you guys for replying to this post.
Maybe my ADD is firing off on this but the rear end of this trailer is getting the better of me.
So there is no bulkhead/crossmember aft of the tanks? looks like 1"x2" angle laying flat and a single angle member welded vertical then the bottom is bolted to this? If there is no cross member aft of the tanks, how does this seal, to keep out moisture off the road?
I've got to be missing something here.
I have my frame welded up with most of the outriggers welded in. I've been working on other stuff because this section is just not looking right. I haven't had the right vision!
I will take pictures of what I have and try to post tomorrow. Never posted pics so this will be another challenge.
thanks,
Jack
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:15 AM   #17
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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Ora, Great pictures!

That is exactly what the stuff in the rear of my 1975 looks like, except you have more frames to work from. My frames were almost completely gone on the back end.

Aaron
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:49 AM   #18
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Olathe , Kansas
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Great pictures,

Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:24 AM   #19
Ora
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1974 29' Ambassador
LAMPASAS , Texas
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Thanks, I am new to this ... great to be able to contribute something, I've gotten alot of info from the forums.
I took another pic of the sheetmetal that forms the bottom skin of the aft compartment between the bumper and tank frames. The lid or cover looks like an aluminum extrusion, but a piece of .060" aluminum would probably suffice if the original is missing. It attaches with a piano hinge to a piece of sheetmetal that comes from under the rear skin of the camper body (fuselage ), and has latches (like AS door latches) near ends of bumper.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:25 AM   #20
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1975 27' Overlander
Elkton , Maryland
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Wow thanks for the pictures and measurements that will be a great help. those are some nice looking pans you have made up. May I ask where is everyone getting there metal supplies from?
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:13 AM   #21
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkrukosky View Post
Wow thanks for the pictures and measurements that will be a great help. those are some nice looking pans you have made up. May I ask where is everyone getting there metal supplies from?
I work for a company that does a variety of metal work, among other things, so I am ahead of the game there. HVAC shops can make up the pans for you, I am buying my angle iron from a local metal fab supply company. Doing most of my own welding or having a family heavy truck repair shop mechanic do it for me. He works cheap...beer and a steak. My sheetmetal is coming out of the stock pile at the shop. I need to replace the Alclad below my storage door, I am hoping my wife's uncle will find a piece for me in his metal collection (vintage aircraft guy) otherwise I will be shelling out for a full sheet of the stuff.

Aaron
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:03 AM   #22
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1975 27' Overlander
Elkton , Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ora View Post
I took a few pics of the tank pans with a couple of measurements. I hope the notes on the pics help some, I am a novice at using Paint program. I am close to finally getting these installed again.. My wifes new name for our " Rosie Rivets" has become "money pit"
I had the new pans made from a little heavier gage material , from 22 ga to 20 ga, for a little extra rigity. The weak point in my opinion is the small 2 1/2" hinges used at the forward mount. I went up to a little heavier grade 3" hinge. The pans are 42 3/4" long x 7" tall. Gray is 22" wide and the Black was 29 1/2". These were for my '74 Ambassador / 29ft rear bath, don't know if yours are the same, The styrofoam under the tanks, plus the plastic support trays allow for pop rivets / Olympic rivets to go into the support pans to hold the underbelly skin up. When I saw the rivets under there, I was afraid I had many holes in the tanks, but all was okay.
sorry a couple more questions? the new angle iron frames that you made up what is the size of this angle iron? also in your comparison photo of the new vs old frame the back piece of angle iron on your new one looks reversed from the original was there some reason for the original to be facing backward or is that actually a T shaped piece?
thanks
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:10 AM   #23
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1974 29' Ambassador
LAMPASAS , Texas
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I'm a scrounger, so the new frames were made from discarded bedframes ( 1 3/8" angle & a little under 1/8" thick). The rear frame of the old one was made from "T" stock. After I posted the photo, I tack welded a lenth of 1/8 X 1/2" flat stock to duplicate the original piece as best as possible. I will try to drill and tap a few holes in this added piece to attach the " belly skin" that goes under the tank and the sheetmetal that closes in the rear bumper compartment. The whole job is taking a lot longer than expected. I received new axles yesterday, got to start on swapping them today and also working on 12v fresh water system also ... getting close to my planned vacation starting the 10th of next month!!!
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:28 PM   #24
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congrats on the new axles, I know what you mean about scrounging. Now I am thinking who's bed am I going to chuck on the floor
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:09 PM   #25
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Are there any reasons not to make the tank pans out of sheet aluminum instead of galvanized? (other than cost that is)
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:35 AM   #26
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1975 27' Overlander
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Can anyone explain or post a picture of how the frames (that support the tanks)are held up at the back. There appears to be nothing to support them on my frame (rusted away).
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:21 PM   #27
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cary , North Carolina
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The way the tanks are held in is with first the bubble pan mold, then the styrofoam, then the "pan". Its like a molded metal bucket with a 1 inch flat out flange. After that their is a small frame thats square and hinged at the back that connects to the crossmember. that allows the tanks to drop and come out of place for easier access. Some people have used the pan and bolted it on the c channel on the sides and rear most crossmember.

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Old 09-24-2012, 05:40 PM   #28
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1975 31' Sovereign
cary , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ora View Post
I took a few pics of the tank pans with a couple of measurements. I hope the notes on the pics help some, I am a novice at using Paint program. I am close to finally getting these installed again.. My wifes new name for our " Rosie Rivets" has become "money pit"
I had the new pans made from a little heavier gage material , from 22 ga to 20 ga, for a little extra rigity. The weak point in my opinion is the small 2 1/2" hinges used at the forward mount. I went up to a little heavier grade 3" hinge. The pans are 42 3/4" long x 7" tall. Gray is 22" wide and the Black was 29 1/2". These were for my '74 Ambassador / 29ft rear bath, don't know if yours are the same, The styrofoam under the tanks, plus the plastic support trays allow for pop rivets / Olympic rivets to go into the support pans to hold the underbelly skin up. When I saw the rivets under there, I was afraid I had many holes in the tanks, but all was okay.

hey bud, anyway i can get the name of who fabricated yours pans and hinge frame? I would love to get my hands on those and do this right the first time around.
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