what first? Axles or Floor fix

[RaleighAir]

Have bad axles and rear separation.

I have to tow about an hour to get new axles installed - easy roads and we should make it there fine. I think the frame is ok, just rot and separation.

I could fix floor and separation now, then tow but I'm worried about the bad axles jarring everything.
Should I get the axles fixed first, then bring her back for the floor fix? OR go ahead and fix floor, then tow get the new axles on.

Just want to be sure I'm tackling this in the right order. Either way, I think I'll pull belly pan now to better see what we're dealing with.

PO: "oh yeah, floor is solid and no leaks"

[tkasten]

I would install the axles first as long as the only rot is in the rear end and you are sure the frame is ok. The axle made a huge difference on my 65 and the floor repair has nothing to do with the axles. Just my opinion...Tim

[87MH]

I'm voting just the opposite of Tim.

The lower interior panel removal/floor repair/frame inspection/belly pan removal will tell you a LOT about the condition of the trailer - and the axles are probably the single most expensive item you will bump up against.

Depending on how far forward the sag is starting you may have to do frame work in the area of the axles - and new axles might be in the way of a required repair. No sense removing the axles twice.

I'd leave the axles until the last. Besides, you'll probably want to put on new tires with the new axles -wait until the rest of the up do to the trailer is finished - you'll likely end up with tires several months newer as opposed to putting on new running gear and have it siting during the work-in-progress time.

Originally Posted by RaleighAir

PO: "oh yeah, floor is solid and no leaks" ...

"...and SURE you can tow it with your Prius".

[Jim & Mitzi]

Suggest drop belly pan, inspect. repair , paint steel frame. Install styrofoam insulation by attaching it to the floor...( Keeps water out of the insulation that holds h20 and causes the rust. Then close it up and seal it in an attempt to keep h20 out, Then attack the axle, brake, wheel, tires etc. Best of luck to U.....Sweat equity is rewarding. PS The axles are very easy to replace and saves lots of $$$.........

[RaleighAir]

Hmmm. I know the whole rear sheet at bathroom will get redone. There's a little perimeter rot up front but seems ok and safe to tow. (did fine on 3hrs home and 2 short camping trips) I think outriggers are OK - peeked with my little snake-camera from harbor freight.
I'll post some pics here too. I really think the frame is OK but I'll go ahead and pull belly pan from rear to fully check.
Tires are pretty new and OK.

New Torflex axles, with new brakes/drums = $500 each + 100 each to install (including shocks). $1200 total not bad for brand new axles/brakes/drums installed.

[Splitrock]

My approach to antique trailer repair is top down. First I repaired/replaced everything on the top, then new gaskets on all the windows and door, then seal the seams and rub rail, then fix the frame, then test the water tanks and plumbing, then replace the floor wood, then install new gas service lines, then repair/replace the gas fixtures/appliances. That's where I'm at right now.

After new appliances and water heater, I'll install new cabinets, new sink, and new countertops.

As a part of the exterior repair/replace project, I installed new tires, inspected and repacked the wheel bearings, installed new grease seals, adjusted the brakes, replaced all the running/clearance lights, replaced all the rear light bulbs and lenses, rewired the 7-way with a new fuse block, installed a new breakaway switch, and replaced the unbiblical cord.

At the rate I'm going I'll be broke LONG before I ever get to looking at new axles.

Gary

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by RaleighAir

Hmmm. I know the whole rear sheet at bathroom will get redone. There's a little perimeter rot up front but seems ok and safe to tow. (did fine on 3hrs home and 2 short camping trips) I think outriggers are OK - peeked with my little snake-camera from harbor freight.
I'll post some pics here too. I really think the frame is OK but I'll go ahead and pull belly pan from rear to fully check.
Tires are pretty new and OK.

New Torflex axles, with new brakes/drums = $500 each + 100 each to install (including shocks). $1200 total not bad for brand new axles/brakes/drums installed.

Did you upgrade the axle weight rating or stay with the original 3200 pounds having 12 inch brakes?

Andy

[RaleighAir]

We were going with the #11 3600# axles and 12" brakes.

I'm working top-down too. Getting all leaks repaired. Got my new AC shroud and plan to get it painted soon.
Sounds like best plan of attack is
1. drop belly pan and see what we're working with. Fix frame at that point if needed.
then decide if we
2a. fix floor first then pull it an hour+ with bad axles.
or
2b. go get axles, then bring it back to fix floor.

[Silverwanabe]

On my unit, the axles was the last major item.
Floor issues/rot was the first item on a long list.
I did not use the unit until the old axles/brakes were replaced with new ones.

[Wabbiteer]

I bought axles right up front - and they have yet to see a single highway mile three years later. Hope you have better results.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by RaleighAir

We were going with the #11 3600# axles and 12" brakes.

Great choice.

Andy

[Goin camping]

Rather than towing it to have the axles replaced. Why not have the axles drop shipped to you and you do the replacement.

By all accounts it is not a hard job at all. Do a quick search and you'll find lots of folks who have done it themselves in a day. It would save you a nice chunk of change.

[RaleighAir]

Originally Posted by Goin camping

Rather than towing it to have the axles replaced. Why not have the axles drop shipped to you and you do the replacement.

I thought about that and could probably pull it off. I'd just have to weld the shock mounts etc and for $200 thought it might be worth that to have someone handle it who has done this many times. I'm an "ok" welder but this makes me a little nervous. Most of my welding experience is fixing things that don't have to be "pretty" or precise.

I'll first get into the belly pan and see if the frame is ok - I think it is.
I was just worried about fixing the floor first, then towing with bad axles and rattling everything. They do have upward angle now and must be bottoming out.

[Splitrock]

As many trips as I'm making in and out of the trailer, up and down the steps, I'd rather slit my throat than raise the floor height of the trailer 3 additional inches. I don't think the crotches on my Airstream Vulkem suit will stretch another three inches either. Whoever suggested to me to dig a hole and back the trailer in to do service work is about to see that happening here. This trailer is turning into an IRA sized lawn ornament.

I like the guy that removed the axles and made the trailer into a chicken coop. If I'da done that when I bought mine, I'd be driving a new car today and eating omelettes three meals a day.

Gary

[RaleighAir]

Pouring rain - great time to pull belly pan and find any leaks.
I like what I see under there! I expected a lot worse for a 37yr old frame and other rusted out frame pics I've seen here.

[RaleighAir]

More pics
How can you tell if the "frame stiffener kit" has been installed? It looks like a plate is welded on the outside of frame. Is that it?

[AL’ UM- MONEY]

Splitrock, Don't slow down You need something to think about on those cold South Dakoda nights. . I'm watching your progress so I can keep going on my 76. My plans are next week buy 5 tires. Once that gets under the radar with my wife I plan to start the axel process. In a previous post the question of welding shock mounts came up. If I get axels from AS is the work bolting up and if some other brand frame modification. Is that what I understand. Forgive me for my lack of knowledge but I haven't started reading post in the axel section.

[RaleighAir]

from what I understand for the torflex, the mounts have to be welded on, but I think they can provide them so you can fine tune the position.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by GAT

Splitrock, Don't slow down You need something to think about on those cold South Dakoda nights. . I'm watching your progress so I can keep going on my 76. My plans are next week buy 5 tires. Once that gets under the radar with my wife I plan to start the axel process. In a previous post the question of welding shock mounts came up. If I get axels from AS is the work bolting up and if some other brand frame modification. Is that what I understand. Forgive me for my lack of knowledge but I haven't started reading post in the axel section.

Oem axles are direct bolt in for the 1969 models and newer.

Nothing to alter or change.

Andy

10.4K

[RaleighAir]

Ever seen a floor fix like this? I haven't seen this method in all my searching to learn what I need to do.
PO cut/bent a steel plate and welded it to the frame flush with top of plywood (instead of using wood here. Then shell bolts down to it.


Wondering if I should cut this out or leave it and work around. It would make the "clamshell" rear repair harder to slide in plywood if I left it.

This hokie fix is coming out unless someone has a good reason to leave it. I've got two bolt heads exposed outside the skin that attach to the alum angle. I believe the same plate steel fix is under the plywood on this side.