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Old 09-29-2010, 09:27 PM   #15
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Pouring rain - great time to pull belly pan and find any leaks.
I like what I see under there! I expected a lot worse for a 37yr old frame and other rusted out frame pics I've seen here.





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Old 09-29-2010, 09:39 PM   #16
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More pics
How can you tell if the "frame stiffener kit" has been installed? It looks like a plate is welded on the outside of frame. Is that it?







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Old 09-29-2010, 09:51 PM   #17
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Don't quit now

Splitrock, Don't slow down You need something to think about on those cold South Dakoda nights. . I'm watching your progress so I can keep going on my 76. My plans are next week buy 5 tires. Once that gets under the radar with my wife I plan to start the axel process. In a previous post the question of welding shock mounts came up. If I get axels from AS is the work bolting up and if some other brand frame modification. Is that what I understand. Forgive me for my lack of knowledge but I haven't started reading post in the axel section.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:02 PM   #18
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from what I understand for the torflex, the mounts have to be welded on, but I think they can provide them so you can fine tune the position.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAT View Post
Splitrock, Don't slow down You need something to think about on those cold South Dakoda nights. . I'm watching your progress so I can keep going on my 76. My plans are next week buy 5 tires. Once that gets under the radar with my wife I plan to start the axel process. In a previous post the question of welding shock mounts came up. If I get axels from AS is the work bolting up and if some other brand frame modification. Is that what I understand. Forgive me for my lack of knowledge but I haven't started reading post in the axel section.
Oem axles are direct bolt in for the 1969 models and newer.

Nothing to alter or change.

Andy

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Old 09-30-2010, 05:08 AM   #20
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Ever seen a floor fix like this? I haven't seen this method in all my searching to learn what I need to do.
PO cut/bent a steel plate and welded it to the frame flush with top of plywood (instead of using wood here. Then shell bolts down to it.


Wondering if I should cut this out or leave it and work around. It would make the "clamshell" rear repair harder to slide in plywood if I left it.

This hokie fix is coming out unless someone has a good reason to leave it. I've got two bolt heads exposed outside the skin that attach to the alum angle. I believe the same plate steel fix is under the plywood on this side.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:15 AM   #21
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I worked from the top down also, axle's will be the last to replace. I would remove the steel plates since alum. and steel does not mix to well. The clamshell fix is hard enough without those being in the way.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:36 AM   #22
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Interesting rear floor repair?

So with banana wraps off, I can see what 's going on with that funky PO floor fix. Looks like a pretty substantial piece of steel (maybe 3/16 or even 1/4) with stainless screws. I've been all over the rear sag/separation forums and can't find anything similar. One side seems to be 3/4" above frame with no plywood above - other side is almost flush with frame up to bottom of (what used to be) ply.
I'll remove this but thought I might put it back, after cleaning/por-15 etc., up to bottom of plywood. It looks like it could have been better executed but not a bad idea for beefing up the rear. Might have been the best way they could repair on the road at the time in a pinch. It's actually still holding solid, but just too low - like they secured everything but didn't raise it up. Looks like the rear needs to come up about 3/4" or so.

Oh, any reason not to get a new rear hold-down made from stainless? Where would I find design improvements for the rear connection? I don't want to put this back together with the same (mind-boggingly stupid) factory design flaw . Shouldn't there be some flashing, overlap, or maybe simply the trunk hinge going up under the skin somehow instead of funneling water under the skin? Seems like the plate should be a bit wider to catch a couple of ribs, or the frame itself.







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Old 10-04-2010, 07:52 AM   #23
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I guess it would be good to get the weight of these repair plates off here - not sure how heavy they are.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:22 AM   #24
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I would put axles at the bottom of the list, even with a totally shot axle(s) you won't trash the trailer pulling a very limited distance to have the new axles installed.

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Old 10-04-2010, 08:39 AM   #25
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The axles are a bolt-on part. They are harmed by standing, such as when you're doing a renovation that could take months or years. It seems, regardless of arguments about the wisdom of moving your trailer on bad axles with rear end separation, if you do the axles last, you'll be extending their working life by at least the length of the delay.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:54 AM   #26
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The Airstream Song (no apologies to The Cure)

Should they stay or should they go now?
Should they stay or should they go now?
If they stay they will cause trouble,
If they go it will be double....

My gut says delete the PO's mod.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:40 AM   #27
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I think Id do axles last. Depending on how long the rehab is gonna take ya. Ive said this before and now again. Save all that money,have the axles drop ship to you. If you can do all this floor and seperation repair,AXLES are a piece of cake. I did mine and Im 71 yrs old. I used my engine crane to take em off my flat bed, wheel dollys and a floor jack to roll the old one out and roll the new ones in. There is nothing as Andy says to weld or change. OEM's are direct bolt in,Ordered to fit from your Serial number.
So I vote for repair first and Axles last.
GOOD LUCK
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:17 PM   #28
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Sounds like the consensus is finish the floor, then get axles.

Not sure which I'll do - planned on dexter to save a few bucks, but if I do the henschen I don't have to tow 1.5hr there and back. I think both brands are equally good.
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