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Old 07-14-2013, 02:48 PM   #1
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1973 Argosy 24
Houston , Texas
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What does the side channel do?

I am finally to the point where I have the shell sitting on the frame again on my Argosy project. I used 3/4" plywood for the floor. So the first problem is that the "channels" don't fit nicely. The second issue is that the channels are all bent to heck because I picked the frame up in that area and set it down on them. There isn't much of this F/C/U channel. It's not really an F channel, and it's not a U channel either. It's like to pieces of C channel joined. Anyhow, On the street side there is about 1 foot of it behind the tires, a 2" piece between the tires and cutout for the water heater, and a 3 or 4 foot stretch of it in front of that. On the curb side there is a 1 foot piece in front of the door, a 2 or 3 foot piece behind the door and another 1 foot piece behind the wheels.

It can't possibly be doing anything structural. I've seen references that several different designs were used. I've removed one piece of it and I'm very tempted to cut the piece off that wraps under the floor and beef up the connection to the plywood with some additional screws 6 or 8" OC.

I would leave the part that drops down along the outer edge of the plywood.

For consideration... I substantially modified the frame. In fact I now consider it a new trailer based on the leftovers from an Argosy.

I'll post some pictures later on of the project.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:34 PM   #2
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1973 Argosy 24
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bump - does anyone have any thoughts on the various ways the "c" channel attached to the floor?
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:44 PM   #3
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1981 31' Excella II
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On the side there is the double channel. The lower channel cradles the floor and the one facing up is connected to the skins. When there is an outrigger, their should be a bolt through the outrigger floor and c-channel. This is mainly to keep the shell in the right shape and support the floor. It does not do much for the overall structure.

Perry
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:56 PM   #4
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1980 31' Excella II
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What Perry says... however my 1975 did not have the lower horizontal flange on the rear channel. You can shave the edge of the plywood down using a belt sander and it will slip right in.

Aaron
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:13 PM   #5
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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I'm at the end stage of a shell-off. Installed new 3/4 MDO ply. Just put the c-channel back in today....and yes, the pieces were in similar sizes as yours. Once you get them close, a block of wood and a 5 lbs sledge helps overcome their resistance. The fact that they are a tight fit...and you screw them to the floor...and bolt them through the floor and outriggers, I think strengthens the whole structure substantially. But I found out I had to climb under the trailer, use a prybar to lift the subfloor off the ends of the out-riggers and then pound the c-channel in between the outriggers and bottom of the sub-floor. They are TIGHT. I will go back and put the bolts through the channel, floor and out-riggers. For the moment, they ain't going anywhere. I also have no c-channel in the rear around the entire curve profile. The strength there comes from sandwiching the sub-floor between the hold-down plate and the U channel...and bolting through into the rear frame member. From what I can tell, it ain't gonna come apart for a long time.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:58 AM   #6
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1957 26' Overlander
Winston Salem , North Carolina
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Question: how are you guys getting to those bolts that have to be cut off? Are you accessing them from underneath? We are in the process of beginning floor removal in our '57 Overlander. We have unscrewed the ones visible from the top in the c-channel, but I don't "see" any other bolts....help!!
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:23 AM   #7
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1972 25' Tradewind
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I don't know if they did things differently in '57. But my '72 Tradewind has elevator bolts spanning the edges of each plywood sub-floor panel...attaching to the frame cross members below. If you have this in your '57, use a 2" diameter hole saw attached to a drill (without the center drill bit)...center it over the elevator bolts and drill down NOT MORE than the thickness of your plywood floor. You do not want to drill into the frame below. Then you can use a chisel to break out the wood around the elevator bolt. Then you can use a metal cutting wheel on a grinder, and cut off the head of the elevator bolt. Use a hammer and nail set to pound the shaft of the elevator bolt down through the frame.

Sorry if this does not apply to the '57.

Have fun!
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:39 AM   #8
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That certainly makes more sense than what I was envisioning. I was picturing these elevator bolts being somewhere in the c-channel. Thanks for clarifying!!
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Old 07-22-2013, 11:28 AM   #9
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1957 22' Caravanner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf1977 View Post
That certainly makes more sense than what I was envisioning. I was picturing these elevator bolts being somewhere in the c-channel. Thanks for clarifying!!
But there are bolts in the C channel.

Mine is the same year as yours, so maybe look at my thread below. You almost have to cut off the belly pan to get enough access.

-steve
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:20 PM   #10
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Good to know as well, Steve. Thanks!!
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